Hi,
I a total newbie. I've seen a bunch of circuits with capacitors just before ground. What is the purpose of having a capacitor here when there's nothing after it?
Since my Muff is working again (yay), I am curious as to what is causing this issue. When I click in the pedal the volume swells up instead of just immediately switching over. I have some very large caps in there, so it wouldn't surprise me if this was the sound of the caps charging. Could anyone verify this?
Hi everyone. New to the forum - hope to learn a lot.
Trying to duplicate a current pedal schematic. Just hung up on a few strange capacitors . At least that's what I think they are.
Look at this pic, and at the top, below the two normal resistors, you see two pink components, a green one, and then a small mustard-seed looking thing. They all have a CXX designation on the board, so I'm assuming they're caps. Yet I don't know how to get the value on them. The mustard seed has some numbers, but...
bought this cap a while ago in a guitar-shop for tone control in guitars.
I'm wondering what the specs are now...
it states
104J
2AOSQ
104J = 01uF 5%
The sq probably means that model is square(?)
The O might have something to do with temprature (-55/125 C)
But the 2A what does that mean has it got something to do with voltage??? Is 2A 2*100V= 200V???
Hello all....my first post here....I hope this is the right place for it.
I'm getting ready to buy parts for a build of the Neovibe and wondering why the parts list is asking for 50V on all the 1uf caps? The reason for the question is I've hit a roadblock in obtaining this exact value at three vendors. Plus, I can't really see why these need to be this high a voltage. For those who have built one or just know, is it possible to substitute a lower value? Like 25V perhaps. There's plenty of...
Hi, sure appreciate your time.
I like to hear some suggestions from you on component types and brand names before I fill the order.
Particularly, capacitor and resistor types for Thor (Marshall Superlead Tube to FEt conversion pedal) from Runoffgroove .
Ive built a number of my own pedals for professional use but, have never done long experimentation and A/B comparsons using
different types of caps and resistors. I see that many have done these comparisons and have opinions on what may...
I have been tearing apart old broken electronics lately and am wondering how to identify the correct name of capacitors and resistors etc. I google everything that are written on them and nothing really comes up. Is there some convention to naming capacitors and other stuff from the brand/random numbers and letters written on them?
once again I wholeheartedly apologize for my newbiness and thank you for the help.
I'm going to build the Alembic Stratoblaster replica they have over at General Guitar Gadgets ( ) as my next build. I was going to try to source all the parts from Small Bear but I'm running into a problem with the tantalum cap - Small Bear doesn't carry the 1.5 value needed for C2. Would a 1mf or 2.2mf be a noticeable change? Thanks for the help!
Was trying to build my second Drag'N'Fly after the first went so smoothly. However, I've been trying to build this second one for several days, all day, and can't figure out whats wrong.
First time I fired it up, smoke came up from some of the caps, but none of them show any signs of damage. I was wondering if there was a way to test each of these components without having to start over from scratch, which I've already done on a new board now, and buying all new components, or if maybe...
okay, so a lot of circuits seem to expressly call for tantalum caps in certain spots. The Klon and the Fulltone OCD are two that come to my mind, and both of those are 1uF caps. My question is do these capacitors HAVE TO be tantalums, or is tantalum just suggested because a large-ish cap is needed and it needs to be non-polarized?
i.e. could one substitute for a film cap of the same value, or is there something special about the tantalum?
can a capacitor absorb a constant DC current? if a pedal had a constant dc offset of 1V, could the appropriate capacitor absorb this constant current, even with ac (guitar) signal on top of it, so that the net dc offset would be zero? or would it be necessary to have an equal and opposite dc current at the output?
I'm building a Dirty Little Secret, I posted a question about substituting a polarized cap, either with a different value or a non-polarized cap, the answer was a non polarized cap was fine, thanks Mike.
My question is as a rule of thumb when is it ok to substitute them with regular caps and what are the advantages and disadvantages of doing so?
I'm SO close to having a build done, but i forgot to order 4 x 1uF caps, i got electrolytes instead. :slap:
anyhow, IF i get the polarity right on them, will they still work? and on that note, if they're 10V electrolytes, and it's a 12V circuit, what's the ramifications?
I purchased some of these by mistake and I was wondering about their quality when compared with those little brownish red Panasonic caps. The BCs are white and boxlike. I bought them from SmallBear (not paying attention) thinking they were the Panasonics. My old stock came from DigiKey or Mouser and I was happy with them.. just not sure if I should use them, return them, or trade them to someone.
There is a pic of the Panasonics I am used to at the bottom of this page, and two components from...
Sorry to sound ignorant, but I've noticed capacitors of the same value come in different voltages. How do I know which voltage to get? My circuit diagram doesn't show the capacitor voltage. Thanks for any answers to this.
I'm building a circuit (Catalinbread DLS) that specifies a 0.22u electrolytic in part of the circuit that (i think) rolls off some low end, but i can't source that particular value of electro.
Is it vital the cap is polarised? (link to layout is below) I could swap in either a 220nF polybox (obviously unpolarised) OR sub a couple of 100nF tantalums that are polarised, albeit 9% too small in capacitance. And, on a more general question, when (or where) are polarised caps vital in circuits? I...
Hey all,
I have a vague recollection of coming across a circuit that can be build so you can use a multimeter to measure the capacitance of a capacitor. I've a few mystery components that i'm fairly sure are caps...
anyone have any ideas on how i can measure the capicitance with a DMM?
tm
Having some trouble finding 25V caps in sweden. At least for smaller values. Started working on assembling parts but can only find 50V 10uF caps. What difference will it make? Fells silly getting stuck when I only need like 10 parts for doing the Coloursound oneknob Fuzz...
I always read about correct electro caps orientation when you are designing a circuit, I mean, all positives (or negatives) leads pointing to the same PCB side. But, honestly, 99% of the stompboxes (standard or boutique) and/or photos I see, comfirm to my eyes that this is not a golden rule . I wanna know if somebody has noticed or experimented a real improvement or even a perceptible difference between circuits that have correct or incorrect caps orientation.
so im building a wooly mammoth clone and i bought two 1uF and two 20uF electolictic caps instead of two 10N and 20uF film ... will these still work... if so.. how should i orient them..
if not.. i have two .1uF trop fish caps... would subbing these in place of the 10n's (which arnt the same as .1uFs) work... im pretty sure that the 10N caps are input/output... so woulndt .1uF give me more fuzz (the more the merrier :applause: )????
Thanks
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