Frequently asked question on the subject of designing, creating, producing printed boards, veroboards or perfboads and on point-to-point construction techniques.
Materials:
copper clad board
acetone
HCl Hydrochloric acid
H2O2 Hydrogen Peroxide
water
inverted pcb layout
glossy magazine paper
Tools:
laser printer or copier
hacksaw
iron
drill
water boiler
plastic containers
plastic tweezers or pliers
steel wool (000)
maybe Sharpie or black marker for writing on CDs
safety goggles
rubber gloves
STEP 1: preparation
Cut out the layout pcb and measure the size of copper board you will need. Cut the copperboard to size.
Clean the...
As requested by some of you members following this etching how-to , here's how to adapt a facial solarium into a UV-light box for your PCB designs...
Just before that, I'll comment my own build now that it's been used. It works like a charm, but the glass warms when you expose many times in a row. Since time is quite crucial while exposing, and considering there is a chemical (or physical) reaction with the resin, then temperature may impact the reproductibility of the...
Hi ya all. Here's a detailed method of etching that I use. In this How To, I'll explain what's going on from a chemistry point of view, and what are the dangers that you might need to protect from. There are different ones already all over the internet, but I hope this one would be clear and helpful to many of us... (edit: you can find some similarities with bajaman's thread here , though the etchant is not the same... :wink: )
Would anybody care for a tutorial on how to make PCB's that look like this?
It's really not that hard with a program such as Illustrator or Inkscape. I wouldn't mind making a tutorial if there's enough interest.
btw, that particular PCB is for an ROG Ruby, and it was my first one to do like this. It still needs a little bit of fine tuning, but you get the idea.
@ mods... if there's a better title for the thread, please change it. That's all I could think of to call the style.
Go...
Up to this point I have simply purchased the PCB laminated from Small Bear. I am now sourcing copper clad boards and was curious as to the benefits and drawbacks of different thicknesses and weight.
Are 1oz boards fine in terms of trace thickness? At 2oz I would assume the etching process to take more time and etchant. Is 1/2oz more preferred?
With regards to actual thickness of the board are 0.03 inch sturdy enough? Should I be sticking with 0.06 inch or greater?
I've ironed on my PCB transfer to the copper clad board, and now I'm having a hell of a time getting the paper off. I'm worried about being too rough with my fingernails or scrub brushes, I had to start over from my first iron try because I scraped off a trace. I know you're supposed to make sure you heat the board enough so that the traces won't come off but I ironed that thing for a good 7 to 8 minutes. I'm using photo paper from Staples, and everything looks good, I just cannot get this last...
I've designed a dual layer PCB for a project and would like to know where someone can get printed circuit boards done at reasonable costs.
I used a program called Express PCB, and although they have a board service, four boards are $175.00, which is kind of steep for something I don't really know that will work. The circuit it self does work on a breadboard or strip board, but, I'm new to PCB design.
I'd like to see if the layout works, and I'd also like to get a lower per board cost than...
Well after some crappy iron transfer on results, I have completely switched to uv boards. I use .32 traces and I think 25mil pads and I have no issues. Hand drill all the pad holes as well. I got a uv box from china off eBay and I have yet to have a f'd up board. Uv really is the way to go IMHO
Not sure if this is the right place to post but here goes. What's you favorite ways to start a PCB design? Like in eagle or something. Start with the ic or power or a ground? Hmm... what works good for everyone?
Hay,
My dad bought me a blank pcb board and I wanted to make a pcb (first time) the problem is that it is real dirty. It also have some scratches on it. Here is some pics. If any one can give me an idea how to clean it. I tried with spirit, water and soap but nothing worked.
Oh and should I clean both sides or only the one which I transfer to?
Ok, maybe a little exagerated, but here's the case:
I always liked all that point-to-point stuff, but you always got to deal with something else than the pure components, so I figured out how to use only components.
I'm experimenting with this yet and maybe is too soon to put it on the table, but also want to share and recieve some input about.
A simple concept: two parallel solid wires, one for power and one for ground and all the stuff in between.
Pro's? no drilling, no chemichal waste, no...
i etch PCBs using hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide. this process is quick, efficient and seems to leave no horrible stains all over the place like FeCl3 does. it does leave me with a major problem, namely safe disposal of the CuCl2 solution left behind.
now, the simple solution would be to let the water evaporate until only the crystals are left behind and hand those over to the correct authorities, right? problem - i live in INDIA. we...
1. Will simple blacklight bulbs work? I see some places mention bug zpper bulbs. 30watt or less okay? I have a gooseneck light I can use.
2. Transparency film? Will this kind work?
3. If I use a normal shaped bulb, and not a tube, Do I still need a box? Or can I shine the light straight down on the board / transparency..to get the trace on it?
4. Cuastic Soda. Will my local Homodepot or Mynads carry this?
thanks.
im kinda done with gloss paper method... its okay, but a serious pain.
Ive been contemplating building the austin treble blaster thanks to RG keen. I am however very concerned with the amount of information available with this procedure. I am pretty noob, but wouldnt you run the risk of having components short out on each other when soldering to a terminal strip?
Ive been searching the web trying to find the answer to this question. Can anyone just point me in the right direction?
Anybody use a scroll saw for cutting out/trimming PCB's? My wife has one that's been in the box for years, so I pulled it out a few weeks ago, and it's actually a pretty nice one. It's got a nice and heavy cast iron table. Once I sanded all the rust off of it, and cleaned it up, it works like a dream.
I figured that it would be a great tool for cutting out PCB's, and it really is, but the blades I have aren't worth a shit for cutting PCB material. They only last about 4-6 before they get too...
I do most of my stuff on vero board, and was getting frustrated with the effort needed to make trace cuts. You can scrape a cut in a track, but it always seemed like such a manual process that would leave lots of room for error. Otherwise I had been drilling my trace cuts, which works just fine but it kind of overkill for such a soft material. It really only need a few twists on a drill bit, and getting out the whole drill to do so was such a pain. What to do....
Hi chaps.. Just wanted to check before give this a go...
I've read somewhere (can't find it now tho!!) that i could use a sharpie permanent marker to do a trace on a copper board...
I've not go access to a laser printer or photoensitive stuff so was wondering if i actually could do this...
also... the tonepad layouts... am i right in thinking that if i were to draw them exactly the same as looking at them then that would be the right way?
then obviously the etchant solution would leave...
So... while visiting a friend of mine recently, he showed me his Skinpimp (Skin Pimp?) Tonebender Mk III.
As a pedal builder, I was completely impressed by the turret board/ point to point build on attractive varnished wood construction! Here are a few pics of the pedal I saw.
Does anyone know where I might find some of the parts to make a build like this? (Turrets in particular)
So as you may know, Im trying to get a process down for etching and what not. I am close and was just filling in some gaps here and there.
For toner transfer..err...transfering the toner to the pcb... I have now used uv but 2 uv boards came out poo and will wash the resist off.
Now for the question..can OHT sheets be iron'd on to a pcb, just like photobasic gloss or press n peel :?: Should I expect to lose the transfer on the pht sheet and possible not be able to reprint on that side?
I have been using 32 as a trace size after good advice from madbean. :)
I wonder though, it does seem small compared to some commercial sized traces? Do I gain or lose anything by going to 40 lets say? It seems it might be easier for me at least when I uv transfer and etch.
Hi guys,
Personally, when soldering components on strip/tripad boards i prefer to keep the layout close to how it looks on the schematic. Its easier for trouble shooting and understanding. eg something like a big muff looks simpler and neat if laid out like the schematic.
However, I need to know if there are any basic rules for designing a layout on vero/strip/tripad boards for a high gain solid state circuit like dr boogie or any other high gain distortion with the least noise/oscillation. The...
I would like to know if anyone has a tutorial regarding using lead free solder. I find it a real PITA to use. Is there a certain type of flux that should be used and if so how do you use it? What is a good iron temp etc?...The solder we are using is:
I'm not sure if such a thread already exists, but i just wanted to share some ideas, pose concearns and see if there is something optimal in all.
So let me being by saying, i have made several stompboxes - with pre-made layouts (ei-Tonepad) to self-designed (not advanced) layouts.
Now in my layouts i have experimented with pcb mounted stompswitched as 9v adapters - but with little success as when fitted on the board, the switch did not sit well, along with difficulties in drilling proper holes...
Just wondering if it's possible to use laser printer OHT sheets for toner transfer. I was planning to try doing Frequency Central's OHT graphic method, but my wife got me OHT sheets for a laser printer, which won't work with our inkjet printer. So, I was just trying to figure out a use for the paper. I figured it would be good to use as a barrier inside an enclosure to prevent shorts, and also be good to use for drilling templates.
Hi to all!!!
I would like to build myself a distortion i designed.I tried it on breadboard and iz fine working.But I cannot make layout,as i am new in all this and it always comes huge,disordered.I want pots soldered on the pcb,and maybe 3pdt sw.too.Can anyone who does that explain the secrets!!!
THNX alot!!!!
If I'm looking at a veroboard layout is it supposed to be viewed as if you're looking at the strip side? In other words, when looking at the component side should I reverse it? I attempted to build a Fuzzrite and I'm thinking that I just built it backwards. Fighting back tears. Help! :cry:
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