A humble request for help over an amateur matter - yet something infuriating :(
In repairing a pedal - using adhesive to reattach a logo plate - I unfortunately got excess glue on the painted (gloss) pedal casing (a smearing and a fingerprint!). The glue is Strong cyanoacrylate adhesive , and seems to resist all attempts to shift it. Tried the basic warm water/soap, then enamel nail polish remover, but to no avail.
Can anyone help? I`d really appreciate any useful tips, as I am at...
I've just finished my first build, and had some aluminum plates made with a logo I created. I'd lke to attach these plates permanently to my pedals somehow. I've tried loctite and hot glue so far with zero success. Any suggestions?
I've placed the plate on the box like i need it to be...but cant figure out what to bond the aluminum to the powder coated aluminum with:
I am looking around to find a large enclosure for rehousing a Boss ce-1. I would need to be 5 deep and 7 wide at least, and about 11/2 high. I checked Hammond and could not find anything wide and deep enough.
Just wondering what free or cheap software is good for designing decals for pedals or
how other people go about designing there decals.
All my pedals will be using 125b enclosures so I'm hoping that it has a 125b template built into the software.
Hope it all make sense.
PS. It must be easy to use.
I was going to order some pro-made (war craft laser cut, and bended by machine from outer space) univibe light shield made of reflective 0,5mm stainess steel, and I've made the pdf documentation of it, but the guys who could do that are asking for dxf file and 3D model of how this needs to be bend after cut-off
I'm not a CAD user/owner, and I know shit how to do that. Is there any talented guy who could help out? I could send off few light shields in return for the job done
Hi,
What is the preferred method to mount a PCB within an enclosure. I'm currently using plastic standoffs. Is it even necessary to mount them? I seem to have seen many pictures of pcb's not even mounted to the enclosure.
Hi,
What grit should I use to get a nice shiny finish on both paint and for bare (for etching)? How should I step it up to the max grit? I can't find anything higher than 220 at home depot but I see online I can get up to at least 3000 from small bear.
Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere, a quick search didn't answer my question.
I've just started building pedals using vero board. How do you professionally mount the vero board to the enclosure? At the moment I am using two cut sponges, one in the enclosure and one in the lid, to lightly hold the board in place. I put some paper on the under side of the vero to ensure no shorting issues.
But this is a very crude method, I am sure there is a better solution or off the shelf product....
I found the idea for dark T-Shirt transfers here some where and tried it. It works well. I did have some trouble around the pots and bypass switch due to not properly applying heat to the drilled edges, so the transfer bubbled a little when I tightened the nuts down, but all in all the finish came out great!
Thank you to the person or folks here that turned me on to this method.
On the pedal below I used an Avery Dark T-Shirt transfer. I ironed it onto the pedal after drilling the holes,...
Has anyone got any experience using this brand I have painted my first properly finished enclosure with their 'Gloss Super' Range and am finding the paint is not really hardening up at all. I used a primer, did several light coats as directed on the can and used a clear acrylic coat to finish (again plastikote). The box has also spent several hours under a lamp while drying. It has been a couple of days now and although the finish looks nice any remotely hard contact with the surface i.e. a...
today i started finishing my first box because i got tired of having to buy boring solid-colored boxes that are pricey and the all aluminum look gets old pretty quickly.
I don't have any experience and most guys spraypaint their enclosures, but as I live in a flat without a balcony i don't really have that option here. So i tried handpainting the enclosure with a brush with what I have at hand, which is acrylic hobby paint.
I sanded the box and then applied the paint with a brush...
I've been experimenting with baking my enamel finishes shot from a spray can. Most guys I read about do it at 150˚F but I'm getting better results at around 300˚F to 325˚F, which is more common among the guys who restore antique toys and others. Does anyone have any experience using temps like these with laser printer water slide decal paper? I e-mail the manufacturer (Papillio) but have not heard back yet
How do you guys hold your enclosure while painting while preventing touching of the paint before it dries?
How do you transfer the box into an oven for baking??
I have been putting the box on a tray and painting that way and then transferring to the oven but I can't reach the edge bits properly using this technique.
I have also tried suspending on a coat hanger but you alway end up with a mark where you hook the hanger in...
Would there be any problems with using the toner transfer method on a painted enclosure as sort of a pseudo screen print job? Would you need to use a high-temperature type of paint? Would the toner even stick to the paint? Would the clear coat stick to the toner?
I'm sure it would just be easier to get some clear decal type of label, but it's something that popped in my head. So, I thought I'd ask if it can be done. Anybody ever try it?
I've had good luck so far baking my clear coats and wet color coats at 150 degrees F for 30 minutes once or twice per coat. Really good luck, actually, I've been getting less dust in my coats and particles because they go into a dust-free chamber very soon after being painted and get hard in there. It also knocks finishing time way down, less of a pain in the neck getting a box looking nice and/or pro
I've just been concerned about safety. The Polyurethane can clearly says, FLAMMABLE do...
Hi, all. It's a long story, but I'm thinking of trying to apply tolex to an enclosure. Anybody here have any experience with applying tolex to a metal surface of any kind? I'm trying to figure out if I would just sand it down, or use etch primer, or whatever.
The utter lack of any information on this idea is making me believe it's a bad one, and that I shouldn't pursue it, but I figure I'd ask in case it can be done by a relative noob like myself.
Are this boxes suitable for DIY stompboxes? I'm planning to put 2 footswitches to its sloped body and I was just wondering if the metal could really handle the force required for stepping? Will it not deform easily? Thanks.
I just posted this pic in a thread over at DIYstompboxes, and thought it might be useful here too.
Best practice for accurate drilling is to make a pilot hole using a Center or Spotting Drill.
They're rigid and much less likely to wander.
While I have found articles on etching and silkscreening project enclosures, are there any other techniques that board members are using to add text and graphics to their projects?
I am most interested in learning how this is being done on the powder coated boxes like those available from pedalpartsplus.
I appreciate any help you guys can provide to this project noob...
I own a screen, and we have the necessary equipment (uv box, emulsion etc) at work. What I'd like to know is what ink is suitable for printing onto a powdercoated box? I've only ever printed t-shirts and posters with acrylic based paint.
Hi there guys,
A few projects that i have in mind for the next few months are building a Voodoo-1 and also a Voodoo Vibe (thanks to the info here)
I have done a little bit of research and i have found that Hammond make an enclosure called a 1550GBK, which is only slightly bigger in size than the Voodoo Vibe enclosures. These also have the bonus of already being finished in black.
Again, thanks to this forum I have a pdf someone has made that copies the labeling on the VoodooVibe almost...
As I've bought the wrong power jacks (all metal... Doh!!) I was wondering if i could use plastic boxes... I know there's some pretty sturdy abs plastic boxes out there and was just wondering how to ground them? would it just be a case of running a ground to both input and output audio jacks? or is it not possible to use these boxes? :hmmm: :hmmm:
another thing is that they're cheaper than the metal ones so that would be a nother bonus too!!! :applause:
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