Ibanez - AD-80 Analog Delay [schematic]
- KindaFuzzy
- Degoop Doctor
cool, now all we need is a "baja-80" analog delay project.
- Greg
- Old Solderhand
Yeah, it'd be very cool if someone made a project out of this.KindaFuzzy wrote:cool, now all we need is a "baja-80" analog delay project.
I don't know how it'll compare with the Aqua Puss (hopefully I will soon), but of all the Delay's I've tried the 2 AD-80s are my favorites.
The re-issue is great for ambience settings because it can be subtle.
The original is just SOoo nice when you want the delay to be obvious !!
culturejam wrote: We are equal opportunity exposure artists.
I may take this on in a bit but I have a few projects to finish first. I would make a PCB that would work with either the MN3005 or MN3205. May be fun.
- abfackeln
- Degoop Doctor
Information
Pardon my ignorance, but how would that be accomplished, since the two are different polarity (if you don't mind me asking)? Something as simple as a switch? I've got most of an ExpressPCB file done on this already, but would likely re-draw into Pad2Pad.jfromel wrote:I would make a PCB that would work with either the MN3005 or MN3205.
I do my designs with a ground and power plane. For the clock and bbd I would just have the power and ground pins go to a hole that could be jumped to either plane. I would set up two power planes, one at 9v or whatever supply you give it and one regulated down to 6v with a 78L06 (low volt req'd for mn3205's), or jumped for 9v+. The MN32xx's can be fed a divided voltage (like the AD-9) but seem happier if they are regulated (like the Boss DC-2). I have ExpressPCB, if you send me the file I can tweak it and send it back to you, or I can just draw up a quick example.abfackeln wrote:Pardon my ignorance, but how would that be accomplished, since the two are different polarity (if you don't mind me asking)? Something as simple as a switch? I've got most of an ExpressPCB file done on this already, but would likely re-draw into Pad2Pad.jfromel wrote:I would make a PCB that would work with either the MN3005 or MN3205.
BTW nice work on the Aqua Puss, can't wait to get my boards. I have never used Pad2Pal, do you like them better? If so, why?
- abfackeln
- Degoop Doctor
Information
Very interesting solution.....
I'm not at home at the moment, so don't have access to my files. When I get back home Monday, I'll shoot you the ExpressPCB file (if I recall correctly, it was fairly similar to the DM2/Aqua Puss). Definitely interested to see that in application. The great minds around here are always humbling - I learn something new almost every day.
I've been pretty happy with the Pad2Pad software and service - I started having trouble getting pricing with the ExpressPCB app, which is why I went looking for something else. The Pad2Pad app seems to have some additional features - 2 or 4 layers, more component selection (although a lot of it is SMT), and better control over custom components. It also allows export of part lists and linking to schematics (I believe ExpressPCB also links to schematics). Pricing also seemd to be quite a bit cheaper for larger orders. And service/communication has been absolutely top-notch.
I'm not at home at the moment, so don't have access to my files. When I get back home Monday, I'll shoot you the ExpressPCB file (if I recall correctly, it was fairly similar to the DM2/Aqua Puss). Definitely interested to see that in application. The great minds around here are always humbling - I learn something new almost every day.
I've been pretty happy with the Pad2Pad software and service - I started having trouble getting pricing with the ExpressPCB app, which is why I went looking for something else. The Pad2Pad app seems to have some additional features - 2 or 4 layers, more component selection (although a lot of it is SMT), and better control over custom components. It also allows export of part lists and linking to schematics (I believe ExpressPCB also links to schematics). Pricing also seemd to be quite a bit cheaper for larger orders. And service/communication has been absolutely top-notch.
- abfackeln
- Degoop Doctor
Information
Can't seem to find my completed AD-80 ExpressPCB file. I have about 2 or 3 versions in various stages (working on different layouts) - I did, however, find my compete AP file, which should be similar enough.....
- Attachments
-
- Aqua Puss.zip
- (82.76 KiB) Downloaded 290 times
Hey guys i've decided id try to work on this pedal/ project... i'm working on laying out the components and making a new smaller board to fir a Hammond 1590B enclosure, and true bypass, using two sources for this and one schematic from http://www.sonicurbs.com/ibanezAD-80/index.htm along with one set of photos, second set courtecy of Greg_g...
Sorry for the copoius amount of posts, but im going thought the compenentry (almost done) BUT it seems the AD-80 is more resembling the AD-9 than the schematic provided on http://www.sonicurbs.com/ibanezAD-80/ibanezad80.pdf, as it seems to have the 2SC1583 Transistor and componentry (at B,C;5,4 as seen on Dirk_Hendrik's schematic along with T7- 2SK118)
So ill get the component layout up hopefully in 30 min, and ill ask to get the proper component values and refine the schematic....
So ill get the component layout up hopefully in 30 min, and ill ask to get the proper component values and refine the schematic....
- Greg
- Old Solderhand
Evz.. sorry for the delayed reply..
I've been busy with other things.. but of course I'll supple better pics if needed where I can, and check any components and values you need.
Nice work.
I've been busy with other things.. but of course I'll supple better pics if needed where I can, and check any components and values you need.
Nice work.
culturejam wrote: We are equal opportunity exposure artists.
Thanks Greg!
Don't worry about it, i'm also doing this on/off but here's what ive got it down to on the layout with components;
PLEASE note that i'm no pro with understanding schematics for anything above an OD...
BUT; i was laying the AD-80 (ibanez version) and have noticed that the schematic provided at http://www.sonicurbs.com/ibanezAD-80/index.htm does not match up with the layout, and is alot more like the combination of tha AD-80 Schem and the AD-9 Schem provided by Dirk_Hendrik,
So these are the layout i have currently with the components; NOTE - Blue - regular, Red- 18v/12v, Pink - 6v, Green - ground
There is one Component in a Pink outline which i could not find on either schem, and a transistor (bottom right) all RED components (caps/resis) were borrowed from the AD9 schem, ill post a list of components/ values up soon, and will draw up a combined schem, but it would be best if it gets confirmed/verified, please also if anyone can, go over the components and check if i made mistakes (which im sure i did)
so here you go....
PM or or ask, i could email the files, so next post ill upload the component list...
http://rapidshare.com/files/248148398/AD80.zip.html
its there for 10 dl's i think, pm me if it dies
Don't worry about it, i'm also doing this on/off but here's what ive got it down to on the layout with components;
PLEASE note that i'm no pro with understanding schematics for anything above an OD...
BUT; i was laying the AD-80 (ibanez version) and have noticed that the schematic provided at http://www.sonicurbs.com/ibanezAD-80/index.htm does not match up with the layout, and is alot more like the combination of tha AD-80 Schem and the AD-9 Schem provided by Dirk_Hendrik,
So these are the layout i have currently with the components; NOTE - Blue - regular, Red- 18v/12v, Pink - 6v, Green - ground
There is one Component in a Pink outline which i could not find on either schem, and a transistor (bottom right) all RED components (caps/resis) were borrowed from the AD9 schem, ill post a list of components/ values up soon, and will draw up a combined schem, but it would be best if it gets confirmed/verified, please also if anyone can, go over the components and check if i made mistakes (which im sure i did)
so here you go....
PM or or ask, i could email the files, so next post ill upload the component list...
http://rapidshare.com/files/248148398/AD80.zip.html
its there for 10 dl's i think, pm me if it dies
- gmr1
- Breadboard Brother
Got one of these with a bad switch, so I'm trying to true bypass it with a 3pdt (using the standard method). I have q104, q105 removed, a jumper from q105's outside pins, and q108 removed completely (all according to the layout in this thread, so hopefully the transistors in question are correctly labeled on the layout). Circuit works fine, but the red and white wire (originally going to the switch) still unlatches the circuit. This would be fine, but when power is removed, the circuit unlatches, and when power is re-attached, the circuit remains unlatched until you touch the red/white to ground.
I don't understand how the wire still engages/disengages the circuit with the parts in question removed. Any advice on this? I really appreciate it. It's driving me crazy I can't figure it out!
I don't understand how the wire still engages/disengages the circuit with the parts in question removed. Any advice on this? I really appreciate it. It's driving me crazy I can't figure it out!
- DimebuGG
- Solder Soldier
Information
I recently built this circuit using 4x MN3007, a 4047 clock driver(instead of MN3101) buffered with 4049 and an LFO from DMM/Dirtbag. I like the sound of this thing than any of my previous PT2399 delay builds. I kept the JFET switching as to me the bypass sound is ok.
Finch: A witty saying proves nothing - Voltaire
Stifler: Suck my dick - Ron Jeremy
Stifler: Suck my dick - Ron Jeremy
- floris
- Cap Cooler
I'm fixing an old Ibanez AD80 delay.
It works ok but I had some pot problems:
- Repeat pot 10 k C was broken.
- Delay Time pot was also a 10k C pot.
Looking at this schematic:
download/file.php?id=26600
I noticed some differences with my AD80:
- Delay Time pot in my Ibanez AD80 was 10k C, schematic states 500k A.
- My AD80 has board MP-AD1001B, schematic states MP-AD1001A.
- Delay Time pot wiring colors are different:
My AD80: pot pin 1 = Light Blue, 2 wiper = Gray, 3 = Purple.
Schematic: pot pin 1 = White, 2 wiper = ?, 3 = Red.
My AD80 Delay Time pot wiring is the same as can be seen here (also a MP-AD1001B board):
http://www.sonicurbs.com/ibanezAD-80/index.htm
Max delay time seemed to be rather short and the first halve of the pot didn't change the delay time much.
So I thought: Did someone use the wrong Delay Time pot?
In the schematic, the 500k A Delay Time pot is used as a simple variable resistor for the clock.
But in my AD80 it is like the Ibanez AD9: Pot pin 1 goes to a 2k trim-pot and there is a C1583 in the clock circuit, just like in the Ibanez AD9:
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/Ibanez_ad9_analog_delay.pdf
So the Ibanez AD80 with MP-AD1001B board, has a clock section much like the Ibanez AD9, and so I assume the Delay Time pot must indeed be a 10k C pot (not a 500k A pot like the schematic of board MP-AD1001A states).
It works ok but I had some pot problems:
- Repeat pot 10 k C was broken.
- Delay Time pot was also a 10k C pot.
Looking at this schematic:
download/file.php?id=26600
I noticed some differences with my AD80:
- Delay Time pot in my Ibanez AD80 was 10k C, schematic states 500k A.
- My AD80 has board MP-AD1001B, schematic states MP-AD1001A.
- Delay Time pot wiring colors are different:
My AD80: pot pin 1 = Light Blue, 2 wiper = Gray, 3 = Purple.
Schematic: pot pin 1 = White, 2 wiper = ?, 3 = Red.
My AD80 Delay Time pot wiring is the same as can be seen here (also a MP-AD1001B board):
http://www.sonicurbs.com/ibanezAD-80/index.htm
Max delay time seemed to be rather short and the first halve of the pot didn't change the delay time much.
So I thought: Did someone use the wrong Delay Time pot?
In the schematic, the 500k A Delay Time pot is used as a simple variable resistor for the clock.
But in my AD80 it is like the Ibanez AD9: Pot pin 1 goes to a 2k trim-pot and there is a C1583 in the clock circuit, just like in the Ibanez AD9:
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/Ibanez_ad9_analog_delay.pdf
So the Ibanez AD80 with MP-AD1001B board, has a clock section much like the Ibanez AD9, and so I assume the Delay Time pot must indeed be a 10k C pot (not a 500k A pot like the schematic of board MP-AD1001A states).