Boss - CE-1 Chorus Ensemble  [schematic]

All about modern commercial stompbox circuits from Electro Harmonix over MXR, Boss and Ibanez into the nineties.
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Fender3D
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Post by Fender3D »

I've always hated charge pumps...

If you need 13V, you can raise regulators' output voltage by adding 1 or more diodes @ GND pins

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Post by patroche »

I did a study on cloning the BOSS CE1 on my blog
http://www.crazy-patroche.com/article-e ... 48543.html
Image

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Post by sinner »

Can you confirm my board dimensions?

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Post by patroche »

Sorry i dont know because i am french and my dimensions are in millimeter on my blog :scratch:

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Post by sinner »

patroche wrote:Sorry i dont know because i am french and my dimensions are in millimeter on my blog :scratch:
Google says it's close ;)

I just published my files too. I was working on it from long time now. I had no much time for other things than my private life recently, so let's say it's beta version

What I understood is - there was at least two versions of CE-1. Lets call it early spec, and later spec - with additional parts highlighted in red on my schematic. The additional parts are flying (R91, R92), or soldered on the back of PCB (D20, D21, D22, D23). There may be more differences, or board revisions - I had no time nor obstinately to track this to date

>>>Here's it is on my website<<<

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Post by sinner »

I was hoping for the flood of the comments and speculations regarding CE-1 unit since the files on patroche blog, and my web are published now :)

No CE-1 love over FSB's?

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Guitara
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Post by Guitara »

Hi all,

I'm a woman from Holland and found this place in my search to build a CE-1 myself. I came to the conclusion that a mint condition second hand original is just way overpriced in my opinion. I refuse to pay that amount for it. :) So i'd figure that I would build one myself... Really wanting that original sound of the CE-1!

Very ambitious of me btw, I have generic understanding of electrics and have augemented my knowledge but googling and youtubing the past 2 weeks. :) But all-in-all I wouldn't call myself an expert. ;) Also I have learned a little about soldering when I replaced the pick-ups of my fender about 2 months ago. But also for the soldering part, I would like some advice on temperatures etc. ;)

So, but I have been searching the internet for parts and so far have been able to find/buy the 4 IC's (the real deal ordered on ebay) and the resistors (local radio shack), some of the diodes (1N4007 instead of 1N4003, also local radio shack) and most of the capacitors (but the film-capacitors are in a plastic housing instead of in a raisin dip, againthese are from local radio shack).

So I am here with a few questions in regard of the deviation in parts I got at the local radio shack and that what is specified on the schematic. :)

1). First of, the transformer... :) I have found a transformer that has exactly the output specified on the schematic, but am not entirely sure about it. Since transformers can be dangerous I was wondering if someone could help me verify that this is a proper replacement:
http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/5059 ... trotechnik

2). Then, I have received 4 1N4007's from the local radio shack when I asked for 1N4003's and found out on the internet the following:
- 1N4003 = Maximum Recurrent Peak Reverse Voltage: 200, Maximum RMS Voltage: 140, Maximum DC Blocking Voltage: 200
- 1N4007 = Maximum Recurrent Peak Reverse Voltage: 1000, Maximum RMS Voltage: 700, Maximum DC Blocking Voltage: 1000
Does anyone of you know if this will matter? Or should I order 4 x 1N4003 from china instead?

3). The 05Z15A diodes (on the back of the circuit)... I haven't been able to find these at all, not even a datasheet. :(

So I thought, I might replace it with another 15v zener diode:
http://www.haje.nl/product_info.php?products_id=32543
Will these do?

Also I wonder if D15 is actually also the same 05Z15A diode, since is has the same symbol in the schematic and in the original schematic the is something written that looks similar to 05Z15A. Could someone confirm this? It would really bum me out if I would solder the wrong Diode on the board and my whole project would go up in flames. ;)

4). The 2SC538F transistor is unfindable on the internet. However if I read the original schematic correctly it seems to me to say 2SC536F instead of 2SC538F. And the 2SC536F is easy to find (again from China, but who cares? :P).

Would the 2SC536F work?

5). Q11, Q12 and Q13 remain unidentified on the schematic. Does anyone of you know what type these are?

And last but not least...
6). The TA7135P on the schematic seems to be listed as TA7136P on another schematic I have found. Does anyone know the difference between these IC's? Are they interchangable? Or something completely different all together...

Hope someone of you knows electronics better than I do... ;)


Also... once I have acquired all these parts and have managed to create a printed circuit and want to start putting it together, what temperature should I set my soldering iron to in Celcius?

Thank you in advance for replying, you would really be helping a girl out. ;)

BTW: I do not have an interest in one of the webshops of which I have posted links about. They are merely there because I need to check whether these parts will suffice or not. :)

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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

sinner wrote:I was hoping for the flood of the comments and speculations regarding CE-1 unit since the files on patroche blog, and my web are published now :)

No CE-1 love over FSB's?
Sorry :oops:
Awsome stuff happening here. It's just that I have 2 CE1's and therefore little need for a project;)
Sorry. Plain out of planes.

http://www.dirk-hendrik.com

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Post by Guitara »

Alright, I think I have found the answer to question 5 of my previous post... I think... :)

Could it be that those 3 transistors are 2SK30A's?

Also, something I forgot to ask before, the Mylar Film capacitors I got from the local radio shack are the ones with the blue square plastic housing. Will this matter in how my project is going to sound?

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Post by fuzzguy »

Hoi Guitara (ook nederlands)

There is a dutch webshop you should check first if they have something you're looking for: http://www.newtone-online.nl/catalog/index.php

Then there is a vero layout of the Ce-2 to be found on http://www.sabrotone.com/?cat=25 maybe easier because it's kant-en-klaar :).

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Post by Guitara »

fuzzguy wrote:Hoi Guitara (ook nederlands)

There is a dutch webshop you should check first if they have something you're looking for: http://www.newtone-online.nl/catalog/index.php

Then there is a vero layout of the Ce-2 to be found on http://www.sabrotone.com/?cat=25 maybe easier because it's kant-en-klaar :).
Wow thanks fuzzguy! That's a nice dutch webshop! I wonder why I didn't get across that before myself though... :)

Building a CE-2 first would probably be smart in terms of building knownledge and experience. But my actual goal is to build a CE-1 rather than building up knowledge... But thanks for the advice. And thanks for the great link! :)

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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

OK, for the Dutchies;
Voor meer specialistische componenten gebruik je idd Newtone. Goeie webshop, prettige levering.
Voor "wat" andere zaken is de Conrad gemakkelijker.

maar voor je hoofdmoot van standaardspullen ga je eers even kijken bij www.dickbest.nl. begonnen als eer surplusdumpdealer maar hun assortiment is steeds vollediger en voor prijzen waar je eigenlijk nergens anders een alternatief vind.
Sorry. Plain out of planes.

http://www.dirk-hendrik.com

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Post by fernsak »

Can someone outline the signal path of the pedal when it's off? I'm looking into isolating the boost stage (level knob) for it's overdrive.

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Post by Yazoo55 »

A big thanks to Patroche for his Boss CE-1 blog. I have just built it and it sounds really good. I built a CE-2 a while ago but was never that impressed. I always preferred the Small Clone. The CE-1 is a different matter though, very lush. I followed the advice on substitutes for the 7 pin inline opamps and used TL071s on daughterboards and they work fine. It took me a while to track down an MN3002 but I got one from Syntaur in the U.S.

:thumbsup

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Post by BMS1971 »

could the MN3002 replaced by an MN3007?

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