Boss - FZ-3 Fuzz [schematic]
I happened to own a FZ-3 just now over a luckily trade, and I must say the FZ-3 is good however there is volume loss, I read on to this thread and decided to take c9 out of the system, and Walah! the pedal has more volume now and bite! I guess removing c9 is good enough for me
Pedal peddler
change log:
I returned back c9 for the reason, having w/o it makes the tone microphonic, instead I use a different 103k label cap instead..I used mylar btw.
and I also change r233 to 1.5k ohm to make it symetrial clipping as previous advice here also
sounds better now than before
still tracing to what component could make the tone more transparent...
I returned back c9 for the reason, having w/o it makes the tone microphonic, instead I use a different 103k label cap instead..I used mylar btw.
and I also change r233 to 1.5k ohm to make it symetrial clipping as previous advice here also
sounds better now than before
still tracing to what component could make the tone more transparent...
Pedal peddler
Removing c9 helped some but the fuzz still sounds choked. Tried to remove r18 and mess with q6 but couldn't figure out what to connect jumper to; total signal loss so I put them back. Is it possible to open the eq and spread the fuzz/clipping across the bass mids and treble instead of just the mids? It sounds like the battery is dying even on a adapter. If the circuit is so close to a ff why does it sound so bad? Any help would be much appreciated.
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Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
On the previous paghe there's a quite decent description what to do. From the above post it seems you were unable to follow thjose instructions. Therefore, are you sure you're able to implement that help?
Let me take another crack at explaining my confusion using the instructions referenced on the previous page.
I have successfully built several byoc kits and modded a few pedals using Indyguitarist's instructions. I am still a novice and unable to completely interpret a schematic,
1. R22 and R23 are actually 2.2k (not 22k as on Dirk's very helpful schematic), OK
2. As mentionned before, C9 can be removed--Complete, tested, opened up the sound somewhat.
3. Remove R18 --Complete, tested, no signal at all.
4. Remove the transistor which emitter was previously connected to R18 (T!3 on the schem)-- Assuming this is Q6 based on the way the solder on the pcb looks. Tested pedal , still no signal at all.
5. Solder a jumper between the base and emitter connection holes of the removed transistor--This is where I get lost. The base hole is the middle of the three holes for the transistor. The emitter hole for the transistor is the closest to R18 on the board. I tired soldering a jumper from the base hole (for Q6) to the emitter hole (for Q6) but got no signal when I tested the pedal. I then left the lead in the base hole (for Q6) and tried connecting it to the empty holes left by R18 (first the inside hole closest to Q6 and then the outside hole along the edge of the board) but still got no signal. I reviewed Silvestre's comments on the matter but found those difficult to understand as well. i put R18 and Q6 back in and the signal returned. I get that by removing R18 and Q6 I broke the circuit but I don't know how to properly bridge the gap with the jumper.
I will try the process I described in step 5 above again tonight. Any help regarding how to properly execute step 5 would be appreciated.
Jon
I have successfully built several byoc kits and modded a few pedals using Indyguitarist's instructions. I am still a novice and unable to completely interpret a schematic,
1. R22 and R23 are actually 2.2k (not 22k as on Dirk's very helpful schematic), OK
2. As mentionned before, C9 can be removed--Complete, tested, opened up the sound somewhat.
3. Remove R18 --Complete, tested, no signal at all.
4. Remove the transistor which emitter was previously connected to R18 (T!3 on the schem)-- Assuming this is Q6 based on the way the solder on the pcb looks. Tested pedal , still no signal at all.
5. Solder a jumper between the base and emitter connection holes of the removed transistor--This is where I get lost. The base hole is the middle of the three holes for the transistor. The emitter hole for the transistor is the closest to R18 on the board. I tired soldering a jumper from the base hole (for Q6) to the emitter hole (for Q6) but got no signal when I tested the pedal. I then left the lead in the base hole (for Q6) and tried connecting it to the empty holes left by R18 (first the inside hole closest to Q6 and then the outside hole along the edge of the board) but still got no signal. I reviewed Silvestre's comments on the matter but found those difficult to understand as well. i put R18 and Q6 back in and the signal returned. I get that by removing R18 and Q6 I broke the circuit but I don't know how to properly bridge the gap with the jumper.
I will try the process I described in step 5 above again tonight. Any help regarding how to properly execute step 5 would be appreciated.
Jon
So...I just asked the google how a transistor works (there's an idea). I'm thinking step 5 should read like this:
"Solder a jumper between the collector and emitter connection holes (the outer holes) of the removed transistor."
I will try this tonight instead and let you know how it goes.
-J
"Solder a jumper between the collector and emitter connection holes (the outer holes) of the removed transistor."
I will try this tonight instead and let you know how it goes.
-J
Change log 4/4/2014
I returned much of the mod i had made to stock
c9 returned back the stock boss (103) cap code
r23 changed to 1.5k (3.3k org)
c10 changed to (273) cap code, orig was (104) electrolytic
mods done with comparison to the super overdrive (SD-10) by denio (Sd-1 boss clone), compared the tone side by side to evenly match the OD tone zone but still having the fuzz warmth
I returned much of the mod i had made to stock
c9 returned back the stock boss (103) cap code
r23 changed to 1.5k (3.3k org)
c10 changed to (273) cap code, orig was (104) electrolytic
mods done with comparison to the super overdrive (SD-10) by denio (Sd-1 boss clone), compared the tone side by side to evenly match the OD tone zone but still having the fuzz warmth
Pedal peddler
change log 30/08/2014
I returned all of these parts back to stock namely
c9= (103) code - this gives the nice smooth balls to the tone
r23= 3.3k - gives the fuzz nice sustain, lowering it to 1.5k kills the sustain
c10=1uF electrolytic - leave this at it is, this gives the warmth of the fuzz
after this my fz-3 was back to stock , then I tried the mod of removing Q6 and r18 that connected to it and jumper shorted the collector and emitter.
now this mod is better! good volume! less harsh fuzz, similar to OD half of the drive and to mean fuzz half all the way to max
I returned all of these parts back to stock namely
c9= (103) code - this gives the nice smooth balls to the tone
r23= 3.3k - gives the fuzz nice sustain, lowering it to 1.5k kills the sustain
c10=1uF electrolytic - leave this at it is, this gives the warmth of the fuzz
after this my fz-3 was back to stock , then I tried the mod of removing Q6 and r18 that connected to it and jumper shorted the collector and emitter.
now this mod is better! good volume! less harsh fuzz, similar to OD half of the drive and to mean fuzz half all the way to max
Pedal peddler
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TubeDude22
- Breadboard Brother
Adding another schematic for informational purposes.
http://blogs.c.yimg.jp/res/blog-2a-7e/c ... 1286982505
http://blogs.c.yimg.jp/res/blog-2a-7e/c ... 1286982505
- Attachments
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Zombie revival?
So wanted to mod this one for bass. Bumped up input coupling cap and cap values to .047u on tone stack. Replaced R29 w/jumper so not to lose any lows (?) by default. More like BMP stack. Did the trick for most part but now has a low thump when engaging/disengaging that didn't rem before mods. Any ideas on cause of switching thumps? All cap changes used same type film for film electrolytic for electrolytic. Done similar on BD-2 and DS-1 w/out issue. R29???
So wanted to mod this one for bass. Bumped up input coupling cap and cap values to .047u on tone stack. Replaced R29 w/jumper so not to lose any lows (?) by default. More like BMP stack. Did the trick for most part but now has a low thump when engaging/disengaging that didn't rem before mods. Any ideas on cause of switching thumps? All cap changes used same type film for film electrolytic for electrolytic. Done similar on BD-2 and DS-1 w/out issue. R29???