Millenium bypass

AbuseArt · Post by **AbuseArt** » 12 Jun 2009, 22:00

The best way to make true bypass with DPDT switch. My new layout. You can do it like SMD and fix with glue to the enclosure.

verified.

I hope you appreciate it.

soulsonic · Post by **soulsonic** » 12 Jun 2009, 23:31

Thanks!
I like to use a J201 for the FET.

Silent Fly · Post by **Silent Fly** » 13 Jun 2009, 07:49

Very nice - Thanks!

Nikifena · Post by **Nikifena** » 13 Jun 2009, 20:06

Here is a good information about milenium bypass :
http://www.premierguitar.com/Magazine/I ... ypass.aspx

Actualy I use "normal" schematics with one j-fet. I use cheapest small j-fet for this job, but i have a little pop when I swich between bypass and effect on. Soon I will try this better popless schematics:

rrhoads33 · Post by **rrhoads33** » 14 Jun 2009, 08:06

If you placed the diode a bit more on the left side, you won't need Row 5 at all.

Cheers

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 18 Jun 2009, 08:50

Im sure this has been explained somewhere, but now that 3pdts are readily available and under $4 why do people use millennium bypass where you have to add the labor and parts of another board on top of a $4 switch to get an LED to work?

soulsonic · Post by **soulsonic** » 18 Jun 2009, 09:16

I use it when I do Boss true bypass mods because the tiny bypass switches I use are only DPDT... though they do make a 4PDT version, the DPDT one is easier to get.
And some people live in places where 3PDT switches aren't easy to get.
And maybe you're switching an effect with stereo outs.
And some people think the blue 3PDT switches are junk and would rather use the Alpha DPDT because it's the closest thing they've found to the superior Fujisoku ones that are almost totally extinct.

Barcode · Post by **Barcode** » 18 Jun 2009, 15:38

and there are some like me who have a bulk of 2n7000 mosfets he got for pennies each and the total sum of parts in the mosfet millenium and a dpdt still add up to about a buck less than using a 3pdt.

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 19 Jun 2009, 01:47

soulsonic wrote:I use it when I do Boss true bypass mods because the tiny bypass switches I use are only DPDT... though they do make a 4PDT version, the DPDT one is easier to get.
And some people live in places where 3PDT switches aren't easy to get.
And maybe you're switching an effect with stereo outs.
And some people think the blue 3PDT switches are junk and would rather use the Alpha DPDT because it's the closest thing they've found to the superior Fujisoku ones that are almost totally extinct.

Gotcha. I knew there had to be cases where it would be an advantage although I figured that the 'people think 3pdts are crap' issue was all going to be pretty big. Thanks!

Paul Marossy · Post by **Paul Marossy** » 19 Jun 2009, 13:30

I have built that little Mill 2 Bypass circuit several times, and it never works for me. That makes me feel like a total idiot!

But that was years ago when I was first starting out...

rs · Post by rs » 20 Jun 2009, 18:48

I had bad issues with millenium bypass too, but lately i've been allright.
I totally agree with soulsonic, blue 3pdt's are junk, had severall problems with those, on the contrary never had any problems with the alpha ones, i think they are pretty well made, and i've been using them for quite awhile.
Unfortunetly its a bit more expensive than a 3pdt.

jfromel · Post by **jfromel** » 28 Jun 2009, 05:56

I use it on a mono in stereo out pedal, works like a charm

mictester · Post by **mictester** » 12 Jul 2009, 16:05

Paul Marossy wrote:I have built that little Mill 2 Bypass circuit several times, and it never works for me. That makes me feel like a total idiot!

But that was years ago when I was first starting out...

I had problems like that sometimes, and poking around with a multimeter is unlikely to give any useful information because the internal resistance of the meter will affect the circuit operation. I used a couple of 4069BE gates in a "valve sound" circuit, and used the spare inverters to drive LEDs. If you're concerned about the current handling of the CMOS IC, you can parallel inverters - there are six in the package. I used one IC just for the indication, with three inverters on each side of the IC paralleled to drive the LEDs. If you use a bicolour, three-wire LED, you only need one hole drilled in the box for the indicator, and the change in colour looks quite impressive!

[img]

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Scruffie · Post by **Scruffie** » 30 Sep 2009, 05:28

Couldn't find a vero layout for the millenium bypass with signal shunt, so I made one... orientations are unchecked and it could probably be made alot smaller by someone better at vero layouts than me, think it's okay though but i'm pretty tired.

Schematic here:
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/m ... l2plus.htm

sinner · Post by **sinner** » 10 Oct 2009, 08:47

Small input from me.

This is Millenium bypass based on AbuseArt's layout with onboard DPDT switch. Next move is to make it with 4PDT to be used with stereo FX's

It's not verified, my first PCB drawing, so be gentle

I hope it fits

meffcio · Post by **meffcio** » 08 Nov 2009, 20:32

Anybody tried it? I mean, is it verified?

Bside2234 · Post by **Bside2234** » 28 Feb 2010, 07:41

I did the millenium bypass as shown in the Premier Guitar schematic and it pops like mad. I checked it a dozen times and it's all right. I didn't substitute anything. Any ideas? Should I not have grounded it on the DC jack?

mictester · Post by **mictester** » 28 Feb 2010, 10:55

Bside2234 wrote:I did the millenium bypass as shown in the Premier Guitar schematic and it pops like mad. I checked it a dozen times and it's all right. I didn't substitute anything. Any ideas? Should I not have grounded it on the DC jack?

OK - which version? There are several. The version with a 1N4148, and any small silicon transistor is the one to go for. Also, does the INPUT of your effect have a high-value pull down resistor? If not, the pop could be coming from there.

Bside2234 · Post by **Bside2234** » 28 Feb 2010, 11:11

It's the one in the 4th post from the top with the 1k on the control. I actually thought about the pull-down resistor after I posted. I'll have to try it out.

mictester · Post by **mictester** » 28 Feb 2010, 13:27

Bside2234 wrote:It's the one in the 4th post from the top with the 1k on the control. I actually thought about the pull-down resistor after I posted. I'll have to try it out.

OK. Let us all know if that was the problem - it's always good to know when something gets fixed!