[Build Doc] Sunking - A New Klon Project (pcb files)

[sinner]

Madbean what is the board dimension in inches?

Cheers

[Brink]

Madbean what is the board dimension in inches?

I see the shaded area about about 2.1" wide and 2.2" high.
Alternate method: print it out and make sure that the ICs fit in their holes, everything else is maneuverable.

[sinner]

Himister helped me, it's 2,3/2,4

cheers

[Brink]

Himister helped me, it's 2,3/2,4

No it's not.
The widest part of the inside of a 1590B is 2.224".
This board is designed to fit inside a 1590B.
I imported the board as an image into Sprint-Layout, matched up the holes with the grid, and found the 2.1x2.2 dimensions for the shaded area.

[himister]

Yeah! I've done the same thing and outlined the madbeans layout pic. I've first set the size matching the opamps and resolution was 600dpi, after that roughly outlined and measured the edges in metric. Sorry if it's off a bit.

[madbean]

2.293 x 2.398" with borders.

[disorder]

I have one of the manufactured boards and will be soon getting an etched. Can we fit 1/4w resistors on either without standing them up? I'm ordering parts at work and don't have the boards in front of me

[madbean]

If you are using 1/4 w resistors, you pretty much have to do them standing. It's the trade-off for fitting it in the smaller size

[disorder]

Not a problem. I also noticed you can get "mini" 1/4w resistors that are nearly the same size as 1/8w. Think the smaller size would contribute any noticeable noise into the circuit?

[madbean]

I doubt you would see much of a benefit or drawback from doing that. It's not an inherently noisy circuit with regular 1/4w resistors, and I have built it a few times. You could maybe do one with regular and the other with the mini or 1/8W and see if there is a difference.

[caspercody]

Brian, I am going to make your Sunking this weekend and have a question about the switch. I see where S1, S3 go but is G ground? Is B buf? And where do output jack, and out go? Not exactly sure of wiring up the switch?

Thanks
Rob

[caspercody]

Never mind, got it working on the first try. This has a very nice clean boost to it. Distortion is good, but not worth all the hype (or money).

Thanks for the layout Brian!!

[madbean]

No problem!

I need to dig up my wiring diagram. I have in on this massive hard drive somewhere.

If you feel like modding, I suggest taking the diodes out, use an on/off/on SPDT, put the germs on one side, put two 1n914's b2b on the other and leave the middle open. That gives you three good selections. The Klon sounds pretty great without clipping diodes until about 70% of the gain is up. After that, it is a little too much opamp clipping but, before, with a cranked tube amp the response is really dynamic.

[theyear2042]

just wanted to say thanks for putting this one together-

i think i will build one- ive got a max chip lying around somewhere- anyone had any problems using the max chip as a drop in replacement?

2042-

[Brink]

i think i will build one- ive got a max chip lying around somewhere- anyone had any problems using the max chip as a drop in replacement?

I've used both and they both work fine. The ICL7660SCPAZ is nice because its less expensive.

[madbean]

I've used a TC1044, too, and it is just fine.

[theyear2042]

cool- thanks for those replies guys

2042

[jrc4558]

Thank you Madbean for a wonderful layout!
I have finished building it last week. Here are some comments:
1) Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to compare it to an actual Klon. I played one for a couple of months about 2-2.5 years ago and remember the sound fairly well. First impression was that the clone is too dark sounding. I read earlier comments about the diodes, and tried pretty much every diode I had on hand, Ge, Si, small signal, power rectifier, shottkys, zeners, pretty much all. While significantly affecting the volume and character of distortion, none of them made the overdrive effect brighter. So I reduced c11,12 and 13. This got me to where I wanted to be on the extreme right of the tone pot rotation, but introduced an interesting quality to the gain control. While moving from minimum gain, there's about 4-6 degrees of the rotation travel where there is absolutely no change, and then, the distorted signal 'pokes through'. Not at a very high volume yet, but there is that subtle jump, which kind of robs me of the 'barely there' overdrive tone. I guess I could alter the taper of the Gain 1 potentiometer to audio to allow for a more gradual onset of the overdriven signal in the mix.
2) I removed both 68k and the 100k (r 26, 27, 28) resistors from the switching circuitry. Having never understood the logic of having them there, I reduced the switching to traditional buffered bypass / effect selection. It works just fine, and adds some output, depending on the impedance of the device you are driving with it.
3) The project file is excellent. I love when people go that extra step to give you all the information you need for a successful build. Thank you Madbean! You rawk!

[DWBH]

is there a rev2 version of this pcb?

[DWBH]

Ok, so I did some tracing and found out that the treble roll off was produced by both 68k resistors at the end of the buffer and effect out. So I took them out and put them in the footswitch, according to a wiring diagram of the Saggitarian Charger and now it's WONDERFUL!, now the buffer sound chimey, jangly...I don't know...buffery! hehe.

The same with the effect on, now I don't have to crank the treble pot and "unity treble" is about noon. And it sounds exactly like the clips I've heard of the Klon.

***So, could there be something wrong with the layout?***

Also, I tried some 1N60P instead of the 1N34A I originally bought and I like them better. Less mid hump. Also tried some LEDs but didn't like it that much.

Finally, don't you guys think an Audio taper pot would be more useful for the volume control? It appears that unity volume on the Klon is about 11 o'clock, but in mine, and some other clones I've seen (youtube), unity gain is about 9 o´clock, even less. Not a big deal anyway.

Anyway, thanks again Madbean!

PS: I ended up changing the Gain pot to a cheap linear taper I had laying around, and it solved my gain issue. (post above)
PS2: I forgot! Sorry for the blurry iPhone pics:



Guts:

I believe there's a mistake in this project.
Comparing to other schems, for example this one members/soulsonic/schematic/KlonCentaur-5-24-08b.gif the last resistors near the output (the 68k and 100k).
In the sunking these resistors are always in the signal path. In the soulsonic's schematic, they're not. The 68k on the buf path gets shorted when the unit is 'bypassed'. When the unit is on, the same happens with the other 68k.