What stripboards does everyone use and how good is it?
- pervyinthepark
- Breadboard Brother
I'm new to this, and have made a couple PCB projects with relative ease and am beginning the realm of stripboards, jumping in with a modded big muff. My issue in getting it to work, and stay working, seems to be that my generic stripboards absolutely suck. The strips break off really easily, even sometimes when I'm being crazy gentle with the thing. Totally unmoddeble, I got a big muff working without any mods but upon trying to install the mods totally destroyed it beyond my ability (or will) to repair.
So basically, I'm wondering where ya'll get stripboards for this kind of stuff. Ones where the strips aren't basically really poorly fused onto sheets of high-heat plastic, only to defuse upon heating.
So basically, I'm wondering where ya'll get stripboards for this kind of stuff. Ones where the strips aren't basically really poorly fused onto sheets of high-heat plastic, only to defuse upon heating.
- deltafred
- Opamp Operator
I've always hated stripboard, it is ok if your circuit works first time but as you say it is rubbish if you need to do any mods.
I prefer the perf board, the fibreglass type that is double sided with plated through holes. That withstands rework very well. The single sided paxolin stuff is worse than stripboard.
I prefer the perf board, the fibreglass type that is double sided with plated through holes. That withstands rework very well. The single sided paxolin stuff is worse than stripboard.
Politics is the art of so plucking the goose as to obtain the most feathers with the least squawking. - R.G. 2011
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
- pervyinthepark
- Breadboard Brother
Perf board looks harder to me unless the signal path basically never splits. I haven't really looked into working on it yet though, since it seemed like everyone else uses stripboards!
I think I'll get some veroboard on amazon. Has anyone used the expensive Busboard brand? The pics make it look super sturdy. Since veroboard is like 3 for one comparatively basically I think I'll get it instead lol. But I'm wondering if it would be good for a project you're super serious about, maybe one for sale?
I think I'll get some veroboard on amazon. Has anyone used the expensive Busboard brand? The pics make it look super sturdy. Since veroboard is like 3 for one comparatively basically I think I'll get it instead lol. But I'm wondering if it would be good for a project you're super serious about, maybe one for sale?
- andrej
- Solder Soldier
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You should never sell stripboard circuits. I'f you're selling anything under 10 pieces, you're at a loss if you don't sell it at a very high price - you can afford ordering PCBs. If you're selling more than 10 pieces, ordering boards from China is also the way to go - the price is very similar to stripboard (or even cheaper), and assembly time is reduced significantly (no cuts or jumpers).
- uncleboko
- Cap Cooler
I've generally used nothing but veroboard, easy to work with, never needed a layout even for the most massive of circuits - eg EH big guitar synth, it must be a gift from the treacle pudding god!!!
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I like the stripboard from Tayda, especially the silver board. Cheap, phenolic-based so no worry about fiberglass fibers from cutting it, and durable. I've never had a problem reworking it.
By contrast, I have had serious problems with the phenolic board from veroboard.com. Twice in a row, with a 40 watt soldering iron, I've had the copper lift off from the board. The stuff under the board appears to render solder on top of it non-conductive, so you can't use solder bridges as a workaround. The epoxy-fiber stuff from veroboard may be better, but, as mentioned, for safety's sake, I prefer not to use stripboard with fiberglass in it.
By contrast, I have had serious problems with the phenolic board from veroboard.com. Twice in a row, with a 40 watt soldering iron, I've had the copper lift off from the board. The stuff under the board appears to render solder on top of it non-conductive, so you can't use solder bridges as a workaround. The epoxy-fiber stuff from veroboard may be better, but, as mentioned, for safety's sake, I prefer not to use stripboard with fiberglass in it.
- Ichabod_Crane
- Resistor Ronker
Me too, I buy stripboard from Tayda, and never a problem. It's easy to build circuit with it, many layouts available in the web, if I want some mods I plan it before to build.
The only problem I have accumulated a lot too short or narrow parts to be used.
The only problem I have accumulated a lot too short or narrow parts to be used.
I used veroboard brand, just started recently. The tayda stuff feels really cheap and the copper doesnt seem like it can take much heat. My BEST tip for you, if your on a budget and like to have a wide variety of stuff ordered and recieved very quickly is to sign up for Amazon prime trial. I can get a 2 pack of veroboard brand stripboard , 30 strips by 60 holes, for like 6 bucks and have it in two days. There are tons of hammond enclosures on there, prepainted, 1590b for like 8 bucks, again youll have it in two days. Not a great source for a lot of components, but you can find alot of good stuff and get it quick. My trial ended up lasting 60 days for some reason, so i ended up getting a lot of stuff. I had been using pad per hole perboard before and had only gotten a couple things to work, since i started using the veroboard, its head duty fiberglass with heavy duty copper stips, ive built 15 or so pedals. Pretty satisfying after having so much trouble with radioshack boards, spending hours and hours on projects and it not working. I am a newbie so just my take