The schematic has R21 marked as 100K not 100R, looking at the picture of the PCB as well the colour banding is brown,black, yellow so 100K would look correct to me. Have you tried 100K instead.burstcracksplit wrote:Hi,
I have build it and it sounds (surprise surprise) like a muff with a huge amount of treble. But I think that the value of R21 (100R) is wrong. There's almost no sound if you turn down the sustain pot. On the guts picture R21 looks like 2K (red-black-red-gold). I changed this resistor and now it sounds pretty similar to "low gain" video on youtube.
Catalinbread - Manx Loaghtan [traced]
- Ice-9
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It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
- Ice-9
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Ice-9 wrote:The schematic has R21 marked as 100K not 100R, looking at the picture of the PCB as well the colour banding is brown,black, yellow so 100K would look correct to me. Have you tried 100K instead.burstcracksplit wrote:Hi,
I have build it and it sounds (surprise surprise) like a muff with a huge amount of treble. But I think that the value of R21 (100R) is wrong. There's almost no sound if you turn down the sustain pot. On the guts picture R21 looks like 2K (red-black-red-gold). I changed this resistor and now it sounds pretty similar to "low gain" video on youtube.
Iv'e had another look and I think you meant R26 on the schematic as this is 100R and is on the sustain pot. that is not 100R in the photo., well spotted.
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
- Ice-9
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It looks like orange , black , orange.Ice-9 wrote:Ice-9 wrote:The schematic has R21 marked as 100K not 100R, looking at the picture of the PCB as well the colour banding is brown,black, yellow so 100K would look correct to me. Have you tried 100K instead.burstcracksplit wrote:Hi,
I have build it and it sounds (surprise surprise) like a muff with a huge amount of treble. But I think that the value of R21 (100R) is wrong. There's almost no sound if you turn down the sustain pot. On the guts picture R21 looks like 2K (red-black-red-gold). I changed this resistor and now it sounds pretty similar to "low gain" video on youtube.
Iv'e had another look and I think you meant R26 on the schematic as this is 100R and is on the sustain pot. that is not 100R in the photo., well spotted.
Why is there no edit post in this forum as its a pain in the rear end having to re-post everytime you need to amend anything.
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
- Nocentelli
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modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- RnFR
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nice work fellas! just one question- what the fuck is up with that name? ii sounds like they flipped through Cat Fancy and just threw a finger down.
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- atreidesheir
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No matter what it is, it is a fugly enclosure.
"Contemplate it - on the tree of woe." :Thulsa Doom
- atreidesheir
- Diode Debunker
"Contemplate it - on the tree of woe." :Thulsa Doom
- joeboo88
- Resistor Ronker
has anyone built Noctelli's most excellent vero yet?
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.... or you could build it, check it works and verify it for us.shardy wrote:any1 built the vero? veryfy pls ... its a badass pedal
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
there seems to be an error on the schematic.... R7 & R12 should be 100k.... I was looking at the scheme and thought the 470K values looked really odd on this...most muffs use 82-100K here..(100k being most optimal)..looked at the pics and sure enough they are 100k- Brown-Black-Yellow..... the 470k would throw off the bias if I remember my muff circuitry correctly
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OK, many thanks to SGJarrod: Here's another go at getting a correct vero - Please note, it is unverified, I haven't built it but if you choose to attempt it, please carefully check the vero against the schematic, bearing in mind the corrections posted (I have done so several times, but that's obviously no guarantee):
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- Nocentelli
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Thanks for the verification - Thought i should probably build one, since I don't have a muff at the moment: I've updated the schem to show my version that I have personally verified (hardly any changes to the board) and added the values for the pots. I didn't have a 470u so I stuck in the biggest electro i had, a (physically) massive 220uF axial cap; This actually has the benefit of making it stand a lot lower off the board than a radial electro:
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
made my first layout with eagle. i hope its not too crappy. i will etch it in the next days.
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