Friedman BE-OD Pedal [traced]
Information
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 12 Nov 2007, 20:36
Can we run this pedal on 18 volt?
- phatt
- Transistor Tuner
You can run all of the opamps mentioned above on 30VDC if you so wish (even higher on some opamps, read the data sheets) the issue then becomes the voltage rating of the capacitors in the circuit.screamingdemon wrote:Can we run this pedal on 18 volt?
So if you wish to run with 18Volt supply then make sure you use 25 Volt rated capacitors. It's mainly the Electrolytics that are the issue as most of the greencaps and ceramics are often already 50 to 100 Volt rated anyway.
Don't be fooled sometimes a 9Volt supply will deliver a better outcome, especially if it's dirt you want but if signal boost is the aim then yes higher supply voltage will normally give more clean headroom.
Phil.
- POTL
- Resistor Ronker
Yes I use such prototyping boardsandlord wrote:Thanks POTL. I guess in your test you replaced all op amps right?
Sounds like I have some desoldering to do...need the tl072s for the Diezel
This allows me to collect layouts without a soldering iron, which saves time. Also I can change any component without problems and in practice (it's more interesting than a boring theory) to understand how each component in a certain place affects the sound.
I advise you to buy the same
Actually I have a bunch of those but I prefer to use them for Microcontroller stuff only. Most pedal curcuits are a bit too big for breadbording in my opinion.
Thanks for the information. Spend half an hour to desolder all op amps from one board to replace em with ne5532 chips just to see what difference it makes. Still have to weit for pots...tayda is really slow with their deliveries.
Thanks for the information. Spend half an hour to desolder all op amps from one board to replace em with ne5532 chips just to see what difference it makes. Still have to weit for pots...tayda is really slow with their deliveries.
- POTL
- Resistor Ronker
Alas I can not. Now my board is busy designing two-channel preamps on JFETandlord wrote:Actually I have a bunch of those but I prefer to use them for Microcontroller stuff only. Most pedal curcuits are a bit too big for breadbording in my opinion.
Thanks for the information. Spend half an hour to desolder all op amps from one board to replace em with ne5532 chips just to see what difference it makes. Still have to weit for pots...tayda is really slow with their deliveries.
I basically refused the pedals distortion on the operational amplifiers in favor of transistor effects, their sound is much more natural and more pleasant
The only thing I have not been able to do yet is an adequate replacement for transparent overdrives based on Marshall BluesBreaker BB-2
- HamishR
- Breadboard Brother
I built one of these from Mark's layout and was very impressed. Now I'm building one with Bugg's PCB, and I'm socketing the ICs. Normally I have a healthy scepticism for the differences in sound between op-amps, but recently I bought a pedal which came from the manufacturer with a TL072. My usual op-amp of choice is the TL072 but I just received a bunch of NE5532s, so I tried an NE5532 in my new OD pedal. It really sounded better - more mids and a beautiful tone. So I will be trying some in my Buggs PCB pedal. I will be very interested to see if I can hear a difference in this pedal. I think the BE-OD could benefit from a little more midrange.
- Jan1966
- Breadboard Brother
Why don't we have a BE OD with just 3 controls. Volume Gain and Treble. The rest of the knobs on the original pedal don't actually do very much. I just always have mine at 12pm and don't bother changing that setting. What do you all think?
- deltafred
- Opamp Operator
There's nothing stopping you, it is easy, and it saves on pots.Jan1966 wrote:Why don't we have a BE OD with just 3 controls. Volume Gain and Treble. The rest of the knobs on the original pedal don't actually do very much. I just always have mine at 12pm and don't bother changing that setting. What do you all think?
For linear pots then replace the pot with 2 resistors of half the value of the pot. R1 between 1 and 2, R2 between 2 and 3. This will be equivalent to 12PM (50%).
For log or antilog set the the pot to 12PM, (or wherever you think they sound best) then disconnect the pot and measure from the wiper to each end. Fit the value resistor closest to what your meter reads to the relevant PCB/Vero/Perf holes.
Politics is the art of so plucking the goose as to obtain the most feathers with the least squawking. - R.G. 2011
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
I find all the tone controls very useful, except perhaps that the treble and presence controls are not very different. The Tight control is the most important one, IMHO. It enables you to tweak the sound from fat for relativly low-gain sounds, to tight hot-rodded high-gain sounds. The bass control can be used to compensate for the bass reduced when turning up the tight control, and vice versa.Jan1966 wrote:Why don't we have a BE OD with just 3 controls. Volume Gain and Treble. The rest of the knobs on the original pedal don't actually do very much. I just always have mine at 12pm and don't bother changing that setting. What do you all think?
If I had to use only 3 pots, I'd add a switch for different Tight/Bass settings.
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
Information
I find both treble and prrsence to be very usefull. Presence is there to match your amp so for the same amp it's a set and forget, and then you tweak the treble. If you play on a darker amp, you will again adjust the presence and forget it. At least this is how I see itd95err wrote:I find all the tone controls very useful, except perhaps that the treble and presence controls are not very different. The Tight control is the most important one, IMHO. It enables you to tweak the sound from fat for relativly low-gain sounds, to tight hot-rodded high-gain sounds. The bass control can be used to compensate for the bass reduced when turning up the tight control, and vice versa.
If I had to use only 3 pots, I'd add a switch for different Tight/Bass settings.
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
Information
On my vero build I shielded the input and upped the 120p to 2n2
Now there is absolutely zero background noise, even with gain and treble full opened, no hum, no wistle, no shhhhh, only great distortion
Now there is absolutely zero background noise, even with gain and treble full opened, no hum, no wistle, no shhhhh, only great distortion
My pots are finaly here and already installed. The pedal works and sounds good from what I could hear now (my amp at home does not take pedals that well). Thanks to Bugg and all the other helpers around here. Now i have to box it and build two more of those for my friends.
Next is the VH4
Next is the VH4
- deltafred
- Opamp Operator
Why not put presets for the pots you set and forget?
Politics is the art of so plucking the goose as to obtain the most feathers with the least squawking. - R.G. 2011
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
Jeez, she's an ugly bastard, she makes my socks hurt. I hope it's no ones missus here. - Ice-9 2012
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
Depending on the brand of amp you play through, speaker configurations, running it into the amp input, FX return, running direct, cab simulator, using impulses etc... You will probably find different pots useful or more useful in different situations. Better to have more pots and not need them than it is to need more pots and not have them... just my personal opinion
Are we seriously descussing 3 pots ~ 1,50€?
The Tonestack is quite good. I ran the pedal into my low power Ken Fisher style amp and with all settings at noon it sounded really dull. I ended up with quite extreme settings with Treble almost all the way up. On the other hand I cannot imagine running it with the same settings into a Fendery type of amp without blowing my ears
So for me there is no way I leave out the upper row of controlls.
The Tonestack is quite good. I ran the pedal into my low power Ken Fisher style amp and with all settings at noon it sounded really dull. I ended up with quite extreme settings with Treble almost all the way up. On the other hand I cannot imagine running it with the same settings into a Fendery type of amp without blowing my ears
So for me there is no way I leave out the upper row of controlls.
I built one with vero layout and its awesome , really punch and tight pot is really effective (can go from overdrive to high gain ) i think this is more better than my dragon armor aka tight metal.i think this is my ending built for overdrive/dist pedall ..you must try guys , I also use switches to choose bav99 (smd) or 1n4148, but its almost sound the same, so finally im using 1n4148 .
oh yaa , and im tried JOKERX mid mod too, i think its need to be tweak again , because when I tried to set the mid pot, its also change the treble any suggestion ??
sory for my bad English , i m from Indonesia
oh yaa , and im tried JOKERX mid mod too, i think its need to be tweak again , because when I tried to set the mid pot, its also change the treble any suggestion ??
sory for my bad English , i m from Indonesia
- rmroza
- Breadboard Brother
agung - Good to know and thanks for the feedback. How is the noise and squeal situation?!??
I've been busy with amps, but finished up yesterday, so will circle back around into seeing why all of the BE-OD clone (2-vero, 2-pcb) do not work!! People seems to be getting both variations done and the one common theme is "me", so I need to see what the fuck is up. I've built hundreds of pedals and never had problem(s) like this and nothing works. Components are correct and orientation and no apparent solder bridges. I'll try connecting the pots directly on and increasing the cap as many have suggested. Other than that, I'm out of options. It should work, but doesn't and some pots in reverse direction!
I've been busy with amps, but finished up yesterday, so will circle back around into seeing why all of the BE-OD clone (2-vero, 2-pcb) do not work!! People seems to be getting both variations done and the one common theme is "me", so I need to see what the fuck is up. I've built hundreds of pedals and never had problem(s) like this and nothing works. Components are correct and orientation and no apparent solder bridges. I'll try connecting the pots directly on and increasing the cap as many have suggested. Other than that, I'm out of options. It should work, but doesn't and some pots in reverse direction!
You could try making high res pictures of your build and share them (maybe a shared dropbox folder or any other service). Maybe somebody can see something odd.
Edit: nevermind...i found them on page 22
Edit: nevermind...i found them on page 22
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
I find it interesting that the "tight" control works so good on this pedal and sucks ass on the tight metal/rock..? It is the same basically as the tight metal, maybe the placement of it has something to do with it or the fact that it's connected to vref vs. gnd, I dunno? as for the mid pot, it may need to be separated from the treble or maybe throw the treble pot after the mid pot rather than before it.. something to experiment with.. You can always stick a Marshall tone stack at the end and see how it works, you can still keep the bass and mid controls the way they are now for added control.. The noise gate form the big rock pro works pretty good with the front gate and trim adjusted secondary gate.. could be easily incorporated into this pedal as well.