Friedman BE-OD Pedal [traced]
- bmxguitarsbmx
- Cap Cooler
The voltages you posted indicate a short somewhere. Between resistances.
U1 is saturated, so you will not have sound. A basic electronics trouble shooting book would be a great investment, for you and rmroza.
One lesson to consider is that getting the correct parts (16mm pots, 1/4watt resistors, correct values parts with correct spacing, and socketing IC's) will go a long way to avoid problems. Hope that is helpful.
U1 is saturated, so you will not have sound. A basic electronics trouble shooting book would be a great investment, for you and rmroza.
One lesson to consider is that getting the correct parts (16mm pots, 1/4watt resistors, correct values parts with correct spacing, and socketing IC's) will go a long way to avoid problems. Hope that is helpful.
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
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Yes I agree, I built over 200 pedals but still have to learn a lot (no sarcasm)bmxguitarsbmx wrote:The voltages you posted indicate a short somewhere. Between resistances.
U1 is saturated, so you will not have sound. A basic electronics trouble shooting book would be a great investment, for you and rmroza.
One lesson to consider is that getting the correct parts (16mm pots, 1/4watt resistors, correct values parts with correct spacing, and socketing IC's) will go a long way to avoid problems. Hope that is helpful.
All the parts I used are correct (well, except that the board is designed for 1/8w resistors), but right, I should have socketed the ICs (it's the first time I don't actually )
I might end probing the circuit
- Jan1966
- Breadboard Brother
I agreebmxguitarsbmx wrote:The voltages you posted indicate a short somewhere. Between resistances.
U1 is saturated, so you will not have sound. A basic electronics trouble shooting book would be a great investment, for you and rmroza.
One lesson to consider is that getting the correct parts (16mm pots, 1/4watt resistors, correct values parts with correct spacing, and socketing IC's) will go a long way to avoid problems. Hope that is helpful.
IC's are probably heat damaged due to not socketing. Now you have to try to desolder them without destroying the pads.
Shouldn't rush.
- jalmonsalmon
- Solder Soldier
Resistors for Buggs build uses 1/8 watt resistors...bmxguitarsbmx wrote:The voltages you posted indicate a short somewhere. Between resistances.
U1 is saturated, so you will not have sound. A basic electronics trouble shooting book would be a great investment, for you and rmroza.
One lesson to consider is that getting the correct parts (16mm pots, 1/4watt resistors, correct values parts with correct spacing, and socketing IC's) will go a long way to avoid problems. Hope that is helpful.
kind of sucks cramming STANDARD 1/4 watter resistors with this PCB however you can buy 3.5mm 1/4 resistors or even 1/6 watters from mouser
- bmxguitarsbmx
- Cap Cooler
I want you to get your pedal working. Don't give up. It could be cleaner. The wrong sized resistors doesn't help nor does leaving solder flux all over the board. A clean job helps you see where you may have made a mistake. Your build and rmroza's build suffers from sloppyness. These parts are cheaper than dirt, why skimp? Is it your time that is worthless? Think of it this way: Your pedals could be around for another 50 years... On the other hand, you could be the person to blame for a live gig failure. Both your build and rmroza's build have voided any reasonable warranty with bugg. It's a mess guys. Take some pride in your work.alltrax wrote:Yes I agree, I built over 200 pedals but still have to learn a lot (no sarcasm)bmxguitarsbmx wrote:The voltages you posted indicate a short somewhere. Between resistances.
U1 is saturated, so you will not have sound. A basic electronics trouble shooting book would be a great investment, for you and rmroza.
One lesson to consider is that getting the correct parts (16mm pots, 1/4watt resistors, correct values parts with correct spacing, and socketing IC's) will go a long way to avoid problems. Hope that is helpful.
All the parts I used are correct (well, except that the board is designed for 1/8w resistors), but right, I should have socketed the ICs (it's the first time I don't actually )
I might end probing the circuit
- bmxguitarsbmx
- Cap Cooler
In all fairness, I shouldn't be giving alltrax a hardtime.rmroza wrote:...some pots are working in the opposite direction! Now easy enough to change by opposite pins, but just noted this throughout the builds and on the Buggs board, some pots still are working in the opposite direction.
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
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Honnestly I don't think so, contact for les than a 1/4s with the iron on each pin shoukd not fry it. But I will fore sure continue socketing them on my next buildsJan1966 wrote: IC's are probably heat damaged due to not socketing. Now you have to try to desolder them without destroying the pads.
Shouldn't rush.
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
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What parts are cheaper than dirt ? And where do you see flux all over my board ?bmxguitarsbmx wrote:I want you to get your pedal working. Don't give up. It could be cleaner. The wrong sized resistors doesn't help nor does leaving solder flux all over the board. A clean job helps you see where you may have made a mistake. Your build and rmroza's build suffers from sloppyness. These parts are cheaper than dirt, why skimp? Is it your time that is worthless? Think of it this way: Your pedals could be around for another 50 years... On the other hand, you could be the person to blame for a live gig failure. Both your build and rmroza's build have voided any reasonable warranty with bugg. It's a mess guys. Take some pride in your work.
Again, real questions, i'd be happy to improve my builds
So far I checked the connections on half the schematic, except U1 pin 2 they are ok
1/8w resistors are dirt cheap...it would have improved the look overall and it is much easier to debug if you have everything in place snugly.
On the other hand I did not use sockets on a bunch of builds and never had problems with it. I don't think your op amps are damaged because of heat(which does not mean that they couldn't be damaged in another way)
What exactly is wrong with that u1 connection?
On the other hand I did not use sockets on a bunch of builds and never had problems with it. I don't think your op amps are damaged because of heat(which does not mean that they couldn't be damaged in another way)
What exactly is wrong with that u1 connection?
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
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I used regular 1/4w resistors, they fit like standing resistors on the board, not an issue for soldering but makes things harder for troubleshooting as I have access to one of the 2 solder only by underneath the board.andlord wrote:1/8w resistors are dirt cheap...it would have improved the look overall and it is much easier to debug if you have everything in place snugly.
On the other hand I did not use sockets on a bunch of builds and never had problems with it. I don't think your op amps are damaged because of heat(which does not mean that they couldn't be damaged in another way)
What exactly is wrong with that u1 connection?
I have no connectivity between U1 pin 2 and R4/R5. I put a jumper but still wrong voltage on U1-1 and no sound at all. I'm in the process of checking all the connections on the board
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
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Ok except U1-2 all the other connections are good
All the Vref from the schematic are also ok
Next step : checking components values
All the Vref from the schematic are also ok
Next step : checking components values
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
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All component values are ok.
On a side note (this has nothing to do with my issue I suppose), I noticed C13 on the board is not on the schematic. I checked the connections, it's // to C25 and R33
Next step will be replacing U1, maybe a bad TL072 ?
On a side note (this has nothing to do with my issue I suppose), I noticed C13 on the board is not on the schematic. I checked the connections, it's // to C25 and R33
Next step will be replacing U1, maybe a bad TL072 ?
- jalmonsalmon
- Solder Soldier
alltrax wrote:All component values are ok.
On a side note (this has nothing to do with my issue I suppose), I noticed C13 on the board is not on the schematic. I checked the connections, it's // to C25 and R33
Next step will be replacing U1, maybe a bad TL072 ?
C13 is parallel with C25
- bancika
- Resistor Ronker
yeah, I agree. But those are the smallest I can get where I live. I'll probably just install them vertically, like old boss or ibanez pedals.jalmonsalmon wrote: kind of sucks cramming STANDARD 1/4 watter resistors :
like this http://medias.audiofanzine.com/images/n ... 735446.jpg
The new version of DIY Layout Creator is out, check it out - https://github.com/bancika/diy-layout-creator
Check out my site with DIY gutars, amps and pedals http://diy-fever.com
Check out my site with DIY gutars, amps and pedals http://diy-fever.com
- alltrax
- Breadboard Brother
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I removed U1 and replaced it with a new one (socketed), and soldered a wire at that bad U1-2 / R4-R5 connection
Voltages around pin 1-3 are now different, but still off :
Before 8.6; 1.35; 3.1, now 1.36; 3.4; 1.11
All the other voltages including the 2 other ICs are good
I plugged it in my amp, well with all pots maxed I can now barely ear some clean sound with a lot of shhhhhh (chug in english ?)
Using a prob will sure help, I will probably try next week-end but I feel I checked and rechecked everything. Maybe time to move to something else and come back later with fresh eyes...
Voltages around pin 1-3 are now different, but still off :
Before 8.6; 1.35; 3.1, now 1.36; 3.4; 1.11
All the other voltages including the 2 other ICs are good
I plugged it in my amp, well with all pots maxed I can now barely ear some clean sound with a lot of shhhhhh (chug in english ?)
Using a prob will sure help, I will probably try next week-end but I feel I checked and rechecked everything. Maybe time to move to something else and come back later with fresh eyes...
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- Joined: 26 Nov 2014, 20:40
- my favorite amplifier: Blackstar HT20 w\ Celestion V30
- Completed builds: Friedman BE-OD,Ibanez TS808, MXR Phase 90 ( with mods), MXR uamp, Ross compressor, Custom Vox wah, PSU designed by me, Rebote delay, Angel Chorus, a bunch of Boss repairs and a couple of Theremins.
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Finally ! When I tried the pedal in March, I thought, there is a layout in inet for sure, but no, there wasnt then, so first, thanks for your work. I wouldve loved to had the money for purchase and reverse engineering it with you guys. I ordered 2 boards from Bugg, and made the component purchase at Musikding, the only thing that I completely forgot was about the pcb mount angled pots Haha, I always buy the ones with solder lugs... Anyways, im really looking forward to make the build and share results with you all, even a Youtube review or something like. Its been a long time since I didnt build a pedal, i'm on the DIY train again !!
- bmxguitarsbmx
- Cap Cooler
All the parts are cheaper than the time you are wasting trying to repair a board you damaged.alltrax wrote: What parts are cheaper than dirt ? And where do you see flux all over my board ?
Again, real questions, i'd be happy to improve my builds
So far I checked the connections on half the schematic, except U1 pin 2 they are ok
I see flux all over the bottom of the board in the second photo you posted!
- bmxguitarsbmx
- Cap Cooler
It does seem weird that u1a is first pegged to the upper rail, now pegged to the lower rail...alltrax wrote:...
Voltages around pin 1-3 are now different, but still off :
Before 8.6; 1.35; 3.1, now 1.36; 3.4; 1.11
...
Couple things to try:
Check voltage on both sides of R2 470k. Both sides should be ~4.5V.
Lift R4. This will turn u1 into a unity gain buffer. See if pin 1,2,3 then settle to ~4.5V.
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
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Have you got the correct dual op amp fitted ? Is it orientated correctly ?
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