freestompboxes.org

So the vero on page 5 is confirmed?

Hides-His-Eyes wrote:So the vero on page 5 is confirmed?

works for me

Does anyone knows what the size is of the PCB?
And with that, what has to be the resolution/print size (dpi) of the PCB layout of the Krankosaurus of Madbean?
Thanks!

Anyone?

r4vi4n wrote:Does anyone knows what the size is of the PCB?
And with that, what has to be the resolution/print size (dpi) of the PCB layout of the Krankosaurus of Madbean?
Thanks!

r4vi4n wrote:Does anyone knows what the size is of the PCB?
And with that, what has to be the resolution/print size (dpi) of the PCB layout of the Krankosaurus of Madbean?
Thanks!

It's a PDF. All you have to do is make sure Page Scaling is turned OFF when you print it.

Hello all.

I made this little perf layout using board mounted pots (16mm). I think its right but if someone wants to take a look at it. There is a good chance I got some cap values wrong.. .0022 vs .022 etc... I used MadBean's schematic over at his website. I haven't tried to get the PCB smaller yet. This should fit a BB size easily.

Oh, the power section is a bit compact, but should fit on the actual build (maybe) (thats an 82r and 47+ and diode in there)

(Thanks Madbean for your work and those W Mammoth PCBs I got were great!)

Here is my layout: I added a input pulldown resistor in the booster section to avoid pops

If you guys were wondering about the Subs and Hi/Lo switch on the distortron and wanted to possibly implement them into your circuit, please check out the Distortron thread on this forum. I believe I figured out the answer and posted it in there. Thanks for all the help guys!

hi all, finally i did it. I draw my own layout, i upload for all diyers.
best regards. enjoy it.

Hi Guys Im new here

which Schem do you recomend me, to more or less be the Zvex Box of Rock clone?



and Does Some one has de schmatics of the keeley ts9 FRANKEN SCREAMER ver 1 or ver 2????

Tanks a lot

take care

Hey I built one of madbeans pcbs from his site, really enjoying it!
I did mod it a little tho, replaced the input cap with a 22n and a resistor with a 50k trimpot for 'presence' as per some of the mods in this thread.
Thanks to all who made useful suggestions in the thread, here's the 'proof in the pudding' (I hope)... a lil mp3 demo of it
http://www.mediafire.com/?0nzz8y6xk5j7rq3

I have on hand original pedal... VERIFIED value of the cap across the tone control of the BOR.
Is it correctly .1(100n).

Quick demo of finished the Krankosaurus, madbean pcb. Few tweaks made, but sounds pretty good
If I could delete posts I would delete my previous one, the pedal has changed since then

hi,

I just build madbeans krankosaurus (which was the most clear building guide i've ever seen, thank you for that!), yet i can't seem to get it working. I've handdrawn the layout but double/triple checked it and it looks fine to me, before i take pictures and do the whole troubleshoot thing id like to eliminate 2 possible factors:

I ran out of 47k resistors so i replaced R14 with a 33k one. I used zetex bs170p transistors which have a different pinout, so they are mirrored of the ones on madbeans layout although i did follow the pinout on the instruction.

Both the sho and rockbox dont work so could this be a power problem? if one of these could be the problem it would save me a lot of work, if more information is needed ill be glad to supply

Max

You said that it doesn't work. I am assuming that you mean no sound at all.

I doubt that the resistor change would result in no sound. it is part of the tone stack, and should probably only affect the way the tone control shapes the freq response. Having said that, if you have a 15K resistor on hand, I would pull one end of the 33K out of the hole it is soldered into, place one leg of the 15K resistor into that hole, and then solder the two loose ends together. This will give you a 33K and a 15K in series, resulting in 48K.

As for the BS170's, as long as you wired the pins of your transistors such that the proper functional leg (G, S, or D) is connected where it should be, then I am sure that the BS170p should be fine.

With all of that out of the way, here is how I would start the troubleshooting (this approach assumes you have no audio probe avaiable). Disconnect the output jack from the circuit. Connect the pedal to your guitar and amp. Attach one end of an alligator clip cable to the output jack. Now, starting with the first BS170, connect the other end of the alligator clip cable to the input side of the transistor (the gate). if some sound passes to the amp, move the clip to the output side of the same transistor (the drain). If some sound passes to the amp, repeat for the second transistor in the circuit.

If at any point you have no sound, you have just moved past the problem. Look between that point and the prior successful point in the circuit for bad solder connections, lack of voltage on the drain, etc.

I hope this helps.
Steve

there's indeed no sound at all, not even a crackle okay. however the volume knob seems to increase the volume of the humming. Despite all this i've spotted a flaw in my pcb, R3 was shortcircuited to ground and since i didnt have any coffee yet i disconnected it from R8. Ill try fix this and try again, if it fails ill grab some crocs. Thanks for your reply, i'm quite the rookie so your explanation is very much appreciated

Finally got around to building this pedal using the vero layout below. I liked the idea of that switch for a little more gain. BUT, my pedal seems to have more gain than the demos I've been checking out (even w/ the switch in the "stock" position). It sounds great as it, but I'd really like to know how to remedy this because even at minimum, there's just a little too much gain. Is it as easy as using a higher value pot than the 5k gain knob? Or do I need to make some other changes? I'm still too noobish to understand what's going on in the circuit.

It's possible I have a wrong value in there, but a lot of the images in this thread are gone so i don't really know which schematic and layout is the "right" one so maybe the one I used has something wrong in it. Here's the layout I used:

dap9, i am thinking that you must have a wrong value(or values), or something miswired, or something broken.

On a stock build, with the gain control turned down all of the way, there should be practically no distortion. You shouldn't need to alter the circuit from its stock design for less gain.

chris_d wrote:dap9, i am thinking that you must have a wrong value(or values), or something miswired, or something broken.

On a stock build, with the gain control turned down all of the way, there should be practically no distortion. You shouldn't need to alter the circuit from its stock design for less gain.

Yeah, that's what I'm thnking too. I can open her up again and look at the values I have in there. What's the most accurate schematic out there? madbean's Krankosaurus? I'm wondering if the values on the layout I used are correct (in the event that I don't have any "mistakes" then I can blame the layout, but would just need to know where the fix is). Thanks

Ok, I figured it out. C3 is wrong in diagram I used. It should be parallel to C4 and R6 (although the cut makes it so it's not actually "parallel" in the circuit - if that makes sense... Just visually)

Now that Gain Switch makes a huge difference - adds some nice extra distortion.

For what it's worth, the way that diagram is, provides a pretty nice distortion sound.

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