Landgraff - MO-D

jakerandall · Post by **jakerandall** » 03 Nov 2007, 11:08

wow. thats a mouthful

mz77 · Post by **mz77** » 03 Nov 2007, 13:47

http://www.phpbbserver.com/freestompbox ... stompboxes

The schematic has already been posted and discussed. For some reason,
it doesn't show up in a search. Regardless, there you go.

analogguru · Post by **analogguru** » 03 Nov 2007, 14:12

Guts:

http://www.mikigakki.com/img_system/MOD%20DISTORTION_1
http://www.mikigakki.com/img_system/MOD%20DISTORTION_2
http://www.mikigakki.com/img_system/MOD%20DISTORTION_3

analogguru

celadine · Post by **celadine** » 03 Nov 2007, 21:22

I have to ask - what is that coiled orange wire doing the the lower right corner of pic #3?

analogguru · Post by **analogguru** » 03 Nov 2007, 21:31

I have to ask - what is that coiled orange wire doing the the lower right corner of pic #3?

Are you familiar with the terms "mojo" and "misleading confusion" ?

analogguru

guiltyspark · Post by **guiltyspark** » 04 Nov 2007, 00:23

celadine wrote:I have to ask - what is that coiled orange wire doing the the lower right corner of pic #3?

That's the + of the battery snap wrapped around the - to be specific-

Guiltyspark

sosodef · Post by **sosodef** » 04 Nov 2007, 11:35

can you guys tell me if I wanted to build a landgraff do I need this stuff ?
Landgraff uses AVX metal caps, tantal electrolytic cap for decoupling and Mica for the pF caps.

All Rs are CC and there is a on/off/on switch for selecting 2 diodes, 3 diodes and none

What readily available parts can I buy and use that will get me there or get me close?

Also I notice on the landgraff its a 3 position switch. The up position is? The middle position is? The bottom position is? meaning which diode setup is each position of the switch?

lautmaschine · Post by **lautmaschine** » 04 Nov 2007, 16:28

sosodef wrote: Also I notice on the landgraff its a 3 position switch. The up position is? The middle position is? The bottom position is? meaning which diode setup is each position of the switch?

Hi sosodef,
As JHS mentioned above, the switch is there to select three different clipping modes. One position is stock Rat, with two diodes for symetrical clipping. The middle position is a diode bypass, and the other position selects three diodes for asymetrical clipping.

celadine · Post by **celadine** » 05 Nov 2007, 03:47

That's the + of the battery snap wrapped around the - to be specific-

Guiltyspark

Wrapping ground around one of the in/out wires may have made sense, in a functional way... Thats just odd.

soulsonic · Post by **soulsonic** » 05 Nov 2007, 04:17

celadine wrote:
That's the + of the battery snap wrapped around the - to be specific-

Guiltyspark
Wrapping ground around one of the in/out wires may have made sense, in a functional way... Thats just odd.

Yeah, wrapping a wire that's grounded on one end around the input wire can work well as a tiny RF supression cap. You can also do a similar trick by connecting a wire to the Collector/Drain/Plate of a Transistor/FET/Tube and wrap it around the wire that connects to the Transistor/FET/Tube's input to create some RF-range negative feedback. Can help with stability in some tricky circuits.

But that's not what's being done here....

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 05 Nov 2007, 05:07

Slightly off topic, but Soulsonic reminds me of a simple way to make a 2pf - 5pf capacitor (sometimes useful to tame rf instability).
Just take a couple of pieces of insulated hookup wire about 10mm in length. Twist them together after stripping the insulation off one end of each piece - 3 twists should do fine. Voila a cheap rf suppression capacitor

If you want a larger capacitance use two 20 mm lengths

cheers
bajaman

Post by **modman** » 05 Nov 2007, 10:03

bajaman wrote:Slightly off topic, but Soulsonic reminds me of a simple way to make a 2pf - 5pf capacitor (sometimes useful to tame rf instability).
Just take a couple of pieces of insulated hookup wire about 10mm in length. Twist them together after stripping the insulation off one end of each piece - 3 twists should do fine. Voila a cheap rf suppression capacitor
If you want a larger capacitance use two 20 mm lengths
cheers
bajaman

Great! This should go into the Bush Electronics section

Greg · Post by **Greg** » 16 Nov 2007, 10:23

neilnil wrote:I recently built one with this schem and yes I've never played around with a real Mo'd pedal but it sounded too bassy when drive is set over 12:00 even with filter knob turned fully ccw. With 30pF as in a stock Rat it sounded ok but seemed to lose some of its character in midrange so I put 51pF back and messed with filter pot to have about 700 to 60k instead of 1.5k to 101.5k and it worked better for me.
Jun

Mine does the same thing.
It sounds great everywhere else, but it gets Bassy with the Drive up high.
I was thinking this was due to the low Slew Rate affecting the high frequencies.
Anyone agree ?

If that's the case, a higher value on the Compensation Cap would make it worse.

Lovepedal Detective · Post by **Lovepedal Detective** » 16 Nov 2007, 15:00

Adjusting the input cap can really help with the low end in this circuit.

guitarpkr76 · Post by **guitarpkr76** » 05 Dec 2007, 02:26

I have a pic of my Landgraff I will post.

guitarpkr76 · Post by **guitarpkr76** » 05 Dec 2007, 02:27

after my 5th post.

guitarpkr76 · Post by **guitarpkr76** » 05 Dec 2007, 02:27

Here we go:

analogguru · Post by **analogguru** » 05 Dec 2007, 02:33

God bless you .....

analogguru

guitarpkr76 · Post by **guitarpkr76** » 05 Dec 2007, 02:43

Are you being sarcastic? Here's another one if not:

analogguru · Post by **analogguru** » 05 Dec 2007, 02:46

Are you being sarcastic?

who ? ....me ?

...never

Thanks for the pictures anyway,

Jesus is lord,

analogguru