Morning Glory Fail.
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: 17 Apr 2009, 13:23
So, feeling defeated today. I was pretty sure this one would work. I attempted the "morning glory" from tagboardeffects and was careful (to my knowledge) to follow everything to the T. When I plug it up I get a wildly loud hum, which gets louder when you actually switch it on (this also happened w/ a klon I failed with). Is that maybe a grounding issue?
The volume knob "works" is as much as the hum goes away and gets louder as you turn it the appropriate ways.
Tone = nothing
Drive = a really loud sound that could potentially ruin speakers...
Bright switch = nothing
LED = Awesome bright white. At least that works, right?
So. Here we go. This is what I started with from tagboard. A nice clean layout
And used the switch wiring as well.
Here are the gut shots. I hope they help.
I know it's not the best wiring job, but not the worst?
I don't know if it was just my soldering (possibly) or what. I don't yet have a multimeter and I know I need to make a probe but I didn't know if there's anything blatantly obvious.
I ran Vol 2 to the output lug on the switch as stated on the layout too.
I tied the sleeves of the jacks together and ran them to the ground on the 9v jack as well as the ground from the board there just like the switch diagram shows. To my knowledge I followed everything as stated. Maybe just start over with a new board and make sure my soldering is SUPER clean?...ooooor just do PCB's from now on?
And one last question. Does anyone know any good builders south of Atlanta that would be willing to teach someone how-to's? I really value the input I get here but I learn better/quicker if someone is physically there with me telling me/showing how to do something.
Anyways, thank you guys for your time as always. I felt like throwing in the towel today.
The volume knob "works" is as much as the hum goes away and gets louder as you turn it the appropriate ways.
Tone = nothing
Drive = a really loud sound that could potentially ruin speakers...
Bright switch = nothing
LED = Awesome bright white. At least that works, right?
So. Here we go. This is what I started with from tagboard. A nice clean layout
And used the switch wiring as well.
Here are the gut shots. I hope they help.
I know it's not the best wiring job, but not the worst?
I don't know if it was just my soldering (possibly) or what. I don't yet have a multimeter and I know I need to make a probe but I didn't know if there's anything blatantly obvious.
I ran Vol 2 to the output lug on the switch as stated on the layout too.
I tied the sleeves of the jacks together and ran them to the ground on the 9v jack as well as the ground from the board there just like the switch diagram shows. To my knowledge I followed everything as stated. Maybe just start over with a new board and make sure my soldering is SUPER clean?...ooooor just do PCB's from now on?
And one last question. Does anyone know any good builders south of Atlanta that would be willing to teach someone how-to's? I really value the input I get here but I learn better/quicker if someone is physically there with me telling me/showing how to do something.
Anyways, thank you guys for your time as always. I felt like throwing in the towel today.
- andre
- Breadboard Brother
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As far as I can see you reversed the connections on both jacks.
Wired like this your signal is connected to the sleeve and gnd to the tip of the plug.
Wired like this your signal is connected to the sleeve and gnd to the tip of the plug.
- Lucifer
- Cap Cooler
Yeah, I thought the jacks were wired wringly too. The 'hot' wires seem to be black, and the blue wire (which I would assume is carrying the signal) is attached to the sleeve connection of the top jack in the photos.
Also, check your board for proper removal of copper around the holes - it's easy to leave a very tiny sliver of copper, which will bridge the track cut. Check also that there are no copper slivers or solder bridges between tracks - especially at the ends of the board, which can easily be overlooked.
I generally run a blade down the gap between each track to make sure there are no unwanted bridges.
Also, check your board for proper removal of copper around the holes - it's easy to leave a very tiny sliver of copper, which will bridge the track cut. Check also that there are no copper slivers or solder bridges between tracks - especially at the ends of the board, which can easily be overlooked.
I generally run a blade down the gap between each track to make sure there are no unwanted bridges.
”Sex is great - but you can’t beat the real thing !” - The Wanker’s Handbook
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: 17 Apr 2009, 13:23
Well, I'll be.
I will do all of the above suggested, guys. If that's it...I'm going to slap myself.
thanks guys!
I will do all of the above suggested, guys. If that's it...I'm going to slap myself.
thanks guys!
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: 17 Apr 2009, 13:23
Also, that's the exact way I wired my klon fail...maybe i'll revisit that board with the correct wiring if this one works. wow.
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: 17 Apr 2009, 13:23
So, I wired it up the way you guys suggested and tried to make sure that all cuts were fully cut and no copper hanging out anywhere (which I will double check again) and the bypass signal now works with no issues.
What I am getting now is a splatty sound when I engage the pedal. Does that mean something with the transistor is messed up? Don't get a lot of volume out of the pedal when it is engaged unless I turn all of them all the way up. Still not getting anything out of the bright switch and nothing much is happening with the tone pot. Not really sure what's happening with the bright switch...did I wire it wrong?
When the pedal is engaged it's like I have to play harder/louder to get a sound out of it.
So, I will go back through the board to make sure there is nothing touching and I'll make a probe and use a multimeter to see what up unless you guys have some more suggestions?
thanks guys!!
What I am getting now is a splatty sound when I engage the pedal. Does that mean something with the transistor is messed up? Don't get a lot of volume out of the pedal when it is engaged unless I turn all of them all the way up. Still not getting anything out of the bright switch and nothing much is happening with the tone pot. Not really sure what's happening with the bright switch...did I wire it wrong?
When the pedal is engaged it's like I have to play harder/louder to get a sound out of it.
So, I will go back through the board to make sure there is nothing touching and I'll make a probe and use a multimeter to see what up unless you guys have some more suggestions?
thanks guys!!
- Intripped
- Cap Cooler
bright switch is wired uncorrectly: just connect one of the two wires (just choose one, no difference) to the middle pin of the switch
then: i see the layout it's Ivlark's, right? well, i'm sure that this is not the reason of your malfunctioning - Ivlark's layouts are all verified - but anyway there's a difference with the schematic that i have:
I don't remeber where i found my schem, but here the 2n5457 is differently polarized (i.e. little difference in the circuit) - the drain is not connected to VB, but to +9V through a 22k resistor.
...but probably there are 2 versions of this circuit
so please check all the usual things: electro's polarity, components values, solder bridges, bad soldering, wiring, traces cuts...
AND measure voltages on the IC
then: i see the layout it's Ivlark's, right? well, i'm sure that this is not the reason of your malfunctioning - Ivlark's layouts are all verified - but anyway there's a difference with the schematic that i have:
I don't remeber where i found my schem, but here the 2n5457 is differently polarized (i.e. little difference in the circuit) - the drain is not connected to VB, but to +9V through a 22k resistor.
...but probably there are 2 versions of this circuit
so please check all the usual things: electro's polarity, components values, solder bridges, bad soldering, wiring, traces cuts...
AND measure voltages on the IC
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: 17 Apr 2009, 13:23
Intripped,
Thank you. I will do those things and get back to you! I corrected the switch, did double, triple & quadruple checked the polarity's on diodes and caps (they are correct to the layout and to a few other folks builds) and made sure there were no solder bridges and that my cuts were fully cut. Ran blades over any places in question. I need to check for cold/bad solder.
I'll check the IC voltage too...I really want to find the issue...I don't want start over. haha!
thanks again guys.
Thank you. I will do those things and get back to you! I corrected the switch, did double, triple & quadruple checked the polarity's on diodes and caps (they are correct to the layout and to a few other folks builds) and made sure there were no solder bridges and that my cuts were fully cut. Ran blades over any places in question. I need to check for cold/bad solder.
I'll check the IC voltage too...I really want to find the issue...I don't want start over. haha!
thanks again guys.
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: 17 Apr 2009, 13:23
welp. it's official...I have to start the board over...something broke on it. oh well. i'll be more careful this time and much cleaner.
thanks guys. i'll let you know how it turns out.
thanks for all your help!
thanks guys. i'll let you know how it turns out.
thanks for all your help!