Roland - AD-50 ( Double Beat ) [schematic]
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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Ignore that last point, I misread the diagram on my tiny phone screen.
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
Thanks. I've been trying all day to understand this but can't figure it out! Do you mean disconnect the input and output jack sleeve connection? Sorry for being obtuse!Nocentelli wrote:Happy new year! Yes, diagram is ok now, but I would disconnect the two ring lugs on the jacks (but leave the input ring connected to power negative): This way, you only need to unplug the input to cut the battery power.
Ha! I totally missed this post. Cool. Thanks again for your help. Can't wait to finish this build and hear this thing. ...This community is awesome.Nocentelli wrote:Ignore that last point, I misread the diagram on my tiny phone screen.
still plugging on this... no sound yet.
i just noticed that the vero layout says the pinout is CBE! is that right? which transistors is this layout using? i thought they were SC1000s which AFAIU are ECB.
thanks!
-j
i just noticed that the vero layout says the pinout is CBE! is that right? which transistors is this layout using? i thought they were SC1000s which AFAIU are ECB.
thanks!
-j
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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2N5088/9, 2N3904 pinout.
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- Nocentelli
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Is it just a short on the switching dc jack through swapping ground a battery +ve? I've heard that can happen
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
haha. yeah, i think so. looks like i connected battery neg to DC tip instead of DC sleeve. still no go on the pedal though! not even an LED light... tested the battery and it's good. double checked the wiring, checked the vero layout and electrolytics orientation. also used the MM to test the switch continuity!Nocentelli wrote:Is it just a short on the switching dc jack through swapping ground a battery +ve? I've heard that can happen
i guess next step is to reflow all solder? even if the trannies were fried (will test those as well) the LED would still get power, right?
thanks!
-j
Resurrecting this thread after having given up for nearly two years.
Today I decided to take another stab. Turns out my issue is coming from the rotary switch. I really can't understand why. Attached is a picture of what I'm doing with it (mounted to another vero board to deal with space limitations). Maybe I need to ground it?
Another thought I had is to use a small 3 way toggle instead.
Appreciate any suggestions!
Thanks!
-j
Today I decided to take another stab. Turns out my issue is coming from the rotary switch. I really can't understand why. Attached is a picture of what I'm doing with it (mounted to another vero board to deal with space limitations). Maybe I need to ground it?
Another thought I had is to use a small 3 way toggle instead.
Appreciate any suggestions!
Thanks!
-j
I think I'm close. I swapped out the rotary switch for a SP3T. That's working now.
But the LED only works when a battery is plugged in regardless of whether i'm using DC power or not. Would someone mind taking a quick look at my wiring diagram and tell me what I'm doing wrong? I keep hitting the wall of my knowledge, not hard to do.
Hugely appreciated!
-j
But the LED only works when a battery is plugged in regardless of whether i'm using DC power or not. Would someone mind taking a quick look at my wiring diagram and tell me what I'm doing wrong? I keep hitting the wall of my knowledge, not hard to do.
Hugely appreciated!
-j
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Awesome! It always feels good to finally figure it out.jzilla wrote:Solved it! Here's the working wiring.
Cheers!
-j
Loe Sounds
- Gila_Crisis
- Resistor Ronker
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I've built a Double Beat Fuzz yesterday using the Aion FX Argus PCB.
I did few mods to have more bass and gain range available, and reworked a bit the left tone switch position as it was cutting way to many highs for my taste.
I played also with the transistors and came up with this coktail of BC107b, BC109c and MPSA13.
It's a very cool fuzz, goes from low gain overdrive up to wall of sound mayhem.
The mid scoop tone setting instead of the triangle/thin setting found in the original circuit is a very clever idea, and the input gain and body/bass control added by Aion FX make this pedal very versatile.
Highly reccomanded for anybody who wants to try out something different than the usual Fuzz Face or Tone Bender circuits.
Mods (parts as per Aion Fx schematic):
Sustain pot 20k
C2 1uF
C6 100nF
C10 22nF (minor change as I couldn't find a 18nF)
C11 4.7nF
C12 10nF
R14 jumper
R15 24k
R19 70k (I just put a 220k in parallel with the stock 150k, more clarity and volume, now the Sinus setting is a cool mid boost)
Q1 BC107B
Q2 MPSA13
Q3 BC109C
I did few mods to have more bass and gain range available, and reworked a bit the left tone switch position as it was cutting way to many highs for my taste.
I played also with the transistors and came up with this coktail of BC107b, BC109c and MPSA13.
It's a very cool fuzz, goes from low gain overdrive up to wall of sound mayhem.
The mid scoop tone setting instead of the triangle/thin setting found in the original circuit is a very clever idea, and the input gain and body/bass control added by Aion FX make this pedal very versatile.
Highly reccomanded for anybody who wants to try out something different than the usual Fuzz Face or Tone Bender circuits.
Mods (parts as per Aion Fx schematic):
Sustain pot 20k
C2 1uF
C6 100nF
C10 22nF (minor change as I couldn't find a 18nF)
C11 4.7nF
C12 10nF
R14 jumper
R15 24k
R19 70k (I just put a 220k in parallel with the stock 150k, more clarity and volume, now the Sinus setting is a cool mid boost)
Q1 BC107B
Q2 MPSA13
Q3 BC109C
Zwischen Ordnung und Chaos fangt die Musik an