Frostwave Funk-a-Duck.
- digi2t
- Degoop Doctor
Hey all, long time no contribute. Sorry, been uber-busy. Anyway, here are the prelim pics;
I'm kind of wrapped up in two monster builds right now (Lab Series preamp and Son of Stormtide flanger), so I'll be slow to trace it. At first glance though, it does look like half of an MS-20 style filter section, with and envelope detector on the front end. I tried it, and it sounds pretty good, but I find that the envelope is rather picky when it comes to pick attack. You have to be fairly constant on the attack, or else it gets kind of hit or miss. I should have put The Engineers Thumb in front of this, it probably would have done a fine job of stabilizing things. Power section looks to be basically copy/paste of the Resonator. Straight forward +/-15v made from 16vac. Anywho, on with the show....
I'm kind of wrapped up in two monster builds right now (Lab Series preamp and Son of Stormtide flanger), so I'll be slow to trace it. At first glance though, it does look like half of an MS-20 style filter section, with and envelope detector on the front end. I tried it, and it sounds pretty good, but I find that the envelope is rather picky when it comes to pick attack. You have to be fairly constant on the attack, or else it gets kind of hit or miss. I should have put The Engineers Thumb in front of this, it probably would have done a fine job of stabilizing things. Power section looks to be basically copy/paste of the Resonator. Straight forward +/-15v made from 16vac. Anywho, on with the show....
- caspercody
- Resistor Ronker
What software did you use to:
lighten the background
Draw in wiring
lighten the background
Draw in wiring
- digi2t
- Degoop Doctor
Corel Paintshop Pro.
I take a hi-rez picture of both sides, flip the trace side image horizontally, and then superimpose one over the other as transparencies. I then adjust the transparency level of each, sometimes change the layer order if necessary, and play with colors, brightness, and contrast until I get a composite image that I can see the traces of both sides. Then it's just a matter of using the actual board, and drawing trace lines on the composite image.
I take a hi-rez picture of both sides, flip the trace side image horizontally, and then superimpose one over the other as transparencies. I then adjust the transparency level of each, sometimes change the layer order if necessary, and play with colors, brightness, and contrast until I get a composite image that I can see the traces of both sides. Then it's just a matter of using the actual board, and drawing trace lines on the composite image.
- toneman
- Resistor Ronker
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- Joined: 17 Jul 2007, 13:05
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Very clever reverse engineering technique, digi2t
Look forward to seeing what U come up with for the schematic
Live Long and Solder
Look forward to seeing what U come up with for the schematic
Live Long and Solder
Tone-to-the-Bone
- digi2t
- Degoop Doctor
Here you go folks. Sorry about the messy layout, but I always sucked at laying out schematics.
The double 0 ohm resistors are there because they're on the board. The "Env out" and "Bypass" boxes are open pads on the board. I just drew it like I saw it, that includes the bypass switch setup, which is something that I've never seen before. If you see anything hinky, let me know and I'll check it out. If anyone wishes to clean this up, by all means...
The double 0 ohm resistors are there because they're on the board. The "Env out" and "Bypass" boxes are open pads on the board. I just drew it like I saw it, that includes the bypass switch setup, which is something that I've never seen before. If you see anything hinky, let me know and I'll check it out. If anyone wishes to clean this up, by all means...