EHX - Big Muff Opamp 1977 veroboardlayout
- Gila_Crisis
- Resistor Ronker
Information
so, i've done a layout for the Big Muff opamp version (1977)
here it is:
it's not yet verified, so if someone could take a look would be nice :icon_wink:
it's based on this schem: http://topopiccione.atspace.com/pjimage ... ff1977.pdf
here it is:
it's not yet verified, so if someone could take a look would be nice :icon_wink:
it's based on this schem: http://topopiccione.atspace.com/pjimage ... ff1977.pdf
Last edited by Gila_Crisis on 08 Oct 2007, 04:04, edited 1 time in total.
- Gila_Crisis
- Resistor Ronker
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i found a little mistake, so pay attention!!!!
R6 must go to foot 1 of the 4558, not to foot 2!!!! otherwise the rest is correct!
R6 must go to foot 1 of the 4558, not to foot 2!!!! otherwise the rest is correct!
- polarbearfx
- Resistor Ronker
gila chris can you help me understand vero layouts.
are you just putting the wire from the components in the hole and soldering on the otherside?
are the red dots where i would need to sand out the track?
then I see the blue lines up top, is that suggesting that you would take a wire and make a jumper across that point, and solder on the otherside of where the lead goes in?
is this all that it takes to make a vero circuit work or is there more that I would have to do on the otherside?
I am new and learning and appreciate the help.
thanks
are you just putting the wire from the components in the hole and soldering on the otherside?
are the red dots where i would need to sand out the track?
then I see the blue lines up top, is that suggesting that you would take a wire and make a jumper across that point, and solder on the otherside of where the lead goes in?
is this all that it takes to make a vero circuit work or is there more that I would have to do on the otherside?
I am new and learning and appreciate the help.
thanks
- Gila_Crisis
- Resistor Ronker
Information
yes, on the drwing the whole is seen from the topare you just putting the wire from the components in the hole and soldering on the otherside?
yep, is where you have to cut the tracesare the red dots where i would need to sand out the track?
yep, those are jumpers between the tracksthen I see the blue lines up top, is that suggesting that you would take a wire and make a jumper across that point, and solder on the otherside of where the lead goes in?
yep, and a bit of luck of course, like every DIYis this all that it takes to make a vero circuit work or is there more that I would have to do on the otherside?
- Gila_Crisis
- Resistor Ronker
Information
the Layout you find here it's now BUILT and VERIFIED!
on the old one there were a pair of mistakes, that now i've correct.
on the old one there were a pair of mistakes, that now i've correct.
- foo zen trader
- Breadboard Brother
Hi!
I've just built the 77 ICBM with MarkM's Layout and it sounds really cool - but the higher notes (plain strings above 12th fret) make strange noises like if they were gated or something... is this normal? I've checked everything and found no error... Could this be the cheap electrolytics i've used?
please please help me!!!
Yours,
Foo
I've just built the 77 ICBM with MarkM's Layout and it sounds really cool - but the higher notes (plain strings above 12th fret) make strange noises like if they were gated or something... is this normal? I've checked everything and found no error... Could this be the cheap electrolytics i've used?
please please help me!!!
Yours,
Foo
JABBA DABBA DOOM
- MoreCowbell
- Transistor Tuner
Information
This is a nice layout Gila. Very well thought out, and, given the size of the circuit and the fact that its on vero, quite compact.
Nice job !
Nice job !
- Gila_Crisis
- Resistor Ronker
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thank you a lot!! yep this was my first vero layout i've ever done! and it is the best i ever made!MoreCowbell wrote:This is a nice layout Gila. Very well thought out, and, given the size of the circuit and the fact that its on vero, quite compact.
Nice job !
Zwischen Ordnung und Chaos fangt die Musik an
- nihoneiga
- Breadboard Brother
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: 20 Feb 2009, 01:13
- my favorite amplifier: 63' Fender Bandmaster
- Completed builds: Maestro MFZ-1 (my favorite), 1977 Big Muff, Fuzz Factory, EA Tremolo, Super Hard-on, ROG Tubescreamer
- Location: Los Angeles
So I was browsing through here and although it's a old post it seemed like an easy build, thanks for the vero layout, keep'em coming.
My question is in regard to the orientation of the electrolytic capacitors on the diagram. It seems like there is very faint bar to one side, is this the negative foot? I'm assuming this coincides with white striped side of the electrolytic itself.
Thanks.
My question is in regard to the orientation of the electrolytic capacitors on the diagram. It seems like there is very faint bar to one side, is this the negative foot? I'm assuming this coincides with white striped side of the electrolytic itself.
Thanks.
- modman
- a d m i n
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You should put it next to the schematic... not just for electrolyte orientation. Soldering without schematic handy is a sin you will soon regret really not jokingnihoneiga wrote:So I was browsing through here and although it's a old post it seemed like an easy build, thanks for the vero layout, keep'em coming.
My question is in regard to the orientation of the electrolytic capacitors on the diagram. It seems like there is very faint bar to one side, is this the negative foot? I'm assuming this coincides with white striped side of the electrolytic itself.
Thanks.
Please, support freestompboxes.org on Patreon for just 1 pcb per year! Or donate directly through PayPal
- nihoneiga
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Posts: 71
- Joined: 20 Feb 2009, 01:13
- my favorite amplifier: 63' Fender Bandmaster
- Completed builds: Maestro MFZ-1 (my favorite), 1977 Big Muff, Fuzz Factory, EA Tremolo, Super Hard-on, ROG Tubescreamer
- Location: Los Angeles
Good advice, thanks. It seems that the schematic link is dead which is understandable given the age of this post, would it be possible to get a repost. I tried fishing around on google but had no luck.
Cheers!
K
Cheers!
K
The Freestompboxes Forum search function is soo great, use the search function..., the S E A R C H function.
- nihoneiga
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Posts: 71
- Joined: 20 Feb 2009, 01:13
- my favorite amplifier: 63' Fender Bandmaster
- Completed builds: Maestro MFZ-1 (my favorite), 1977 Big Muff, Fuzz Factory, EA Tremolo, Super Hard-on, ROG Tubescreamer
- Location: Los Angeles
I noticed a mistake in the Vero layout. According to the schematic, foot 4 of IC2 should be going to ground but instead it's going nowhere!
- ShortScaleMike
- Resistor Ronker
Information
Are you sure? Look again.
IC2 is inverted. Pin4 is connected to GND along with the volume ground lug...
IC2 is inverted. Pin4 is connected to GND along with the volume ground lug...
- nihoneiga
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Posts: 71
- Joined: 20 Feb 2009, 01:13
- my favorite amplifier: 63' Fender Bandmaster
- Completed builds: Maestro MFZ-1 (my favorite), 1977 Big Muff, Fuzz Factory, EA Tremolo, Super Hard-on, ROG Tubescreamer
- Location: Los Angeles
Oops, my mistake, I stupidly had the board turned around. My apologies.
- nihoneiga
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Posts: 71
- Joined: 20 Feb 2009, 01:13
- my favorite amplifier: 63' Fender Bandmaster
- Completed builds: Maestro MFZ-1 (my favorite), 1977 Big Muff, Fuzz Factory, EA Tremolo, Super Hard-on, ROG Tubescreamer
- Location: Los Angeles
I've only heard a real Big Muff once but my build seems to have pretty weak high end. Is this the common trait of Big Muffs? The bottom end sound is fat and fuzz with miles of sustain but the top end just seems so thin like I almost need a high-end boost to get the full range out of the pedal. Any suggestions, place on the schematic where I could wire something in to get more top end?
Thanks,
Thanks,
- mattpas
- Breadboard Brother
Did you ever get an answer to the high-end question?foo zen trader wrote:Hi!
I've just built the 77 ICBM with MarkM's Layout and it sounds really cool - but the higher notes (plain strings above 12th fret) make strange noises like if they were gated or something... is this normal? I've checked everything and found no error... Could this be the cheap electrolytics i've used?
please please help me!!!
Yours,
Foo
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
should get pretty sharp sounding with the tone knob dialed up a lot? seems like big muffs are often all about "big bass" though. you might want to look into tweaking the tone stack, using a filter calculator or just substituting values to taste, maybe socket those parts in question, or get it going on a breadboard
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: 10 Nov 2012, 22:19
Has anyone added a Gain/Drive control to a Big muff? And possibly a bias control also? Would that essentially be a Cornish NG3?
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
what are you talking about? VOLUME, TONE, SUSTAIN (gain)
bias must be adjusted for each of the 4 transistors. yes you can dial it different ways by doing this and all the other usual tweaks.
you've got a lot of learning to do. good luck with it, it can be fun
bias must be adjusted for each of the 4 transistors. yes you can dial it different ways by doing this and all the other usual tweaks.
you've got a lot of learning to do. good luck with it, it can be fun