check if there is a fuse resistor or protection diode? test the component, check for any burn marks around components or the board.

probably a short in/before the last two op amps.

what is the voltage at the base of Q3?

just gonna link these other cheapy threads

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=27770&p=259947
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=14045&p=160330
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=408

should be a megathread for these IMHO

component variation and biasing? did you measure the voltages and compare with other people's builds?

I've been dark for nearly a decade, mostly due to sickness. I just today showed it to a fellow guitar-playing friend. But I am enthused in the fact that these mods still stand up well. :-) i just modded my old ds-1 with your MIJ mod. it's really great, I'm very surprised how much better it is than ...

alright folks, thanks for the help.

the problem was i mixed up a 1n4148 with a zener AND also the LED was broken. it still sounds like muddy shit but hey at least the led works now!!

i pulled Q4 and tested it, it's ok. I tried a bc549 (making sure to use the right pins) and it makes no difference.. D2 is new as I replaced it. it was marked as a 1/2W 5.1V diode and at least looks like a zener. I also tried bridging D2 to see if the LED lights up to no avail. a conundrum for sure....

It seems that the transistors are doing their job (switching). Also the voltage is changing at the LED, although I think 200mV is a bit too low. Q4's collector gets a bit of +9V from R30 too. Did you measure the voltages along the whole circuit, the +9V D2 pin, the junction of D2 and R35, the junct...

Intripped wrote: ↑17 Dec 2020, 15:10 did you check the integrity of tracks and wires?

I have done a little bit, but I will double check the path to ground, I suspect a problem with Q4 but I am unsure how the flip flop is working if there is a problem with it.

Does the flip-flop (Q4/Q5, especially Q4) do its job switching the bypass (together with the LED)? the effect swtiches on and off fine so I thought those transistors would be ok if that is working? do you think it is worth swapping Q4 and Q5 for some other transistors I have on hand? I can see the ...

CheapPedalCollector wrote: ↑17 Dec 2020, 23:04 Early ones the LED is momentary only, is it an early one?

it's a taiwanese one, i suspect early 90s but i haven't checked the serial or anything.

I have an old DS-1 that I've had for years, everything works fine including switching the effect on and off. The problem is the LED does not turn on even though the LED itself is fine (i pulled it out of the circuit). I've replaced the zener diode (D2) and resistor (r35) but still doesn't work. If c...

Finally, it probably won't be long before someone comes up with a "tube screamer on a chip", where all but the power components are on a single IC. Then your PCB design would be really simple and you could produce cheap pedals by the bucket loads! :) this is pretty much possible now, make...

get fuzz face, add knobs.

I'd appreciate it! FYI, I got my big muff kit and all the components were correct, it seems to be based on gauss markovs schematic but I have looked up some of the values on kitrae and corrected them to originals. Not a bad kit IMO especially for the money, the next hard part is going to be how am i...

and with these commandments 100 new boutique tubescreamers were born. so say we all.

relevant: http://www.yourdictionary.com/newton-s- ... aser-sword

here ya go buddy,

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