Pyr0 wrote:The LF347 has a max current draw of 11mA according to the datasheet, so 50mA is more than enough.

What about losses through the voltage regulator etc?

This trafo will work well ? http://www.banzaieffects.com/Hahn-BVEI3022028-pr-24062.html As suggested by ODwan , the 80-90 mA should be total (like 2x40-45) or for each side (2x80-90) ? thanks Digging up a very old thread here. I am in the process of converting a 110v Plexitone to 230v for a mate he...

Don't mean to hijack... :D Has anyone seen a schematic of the boost and buff with the variable gain as well as the volume pot? Just curious. I've tested the boost n buff 2, and I like it. 8) It's just a 20K linear voltage divider replacing the fixed output resistor. Can someone please help me under...

Nice work - I think I'll add this to the build list.

Any chance of a schematic?

A quick question (apologies if it has been covered before, spent a long time going through the various threads and couldn't find an answer). If I keep the two 1N4148 diodes and also have the 9.1v zener, is this an issue? Are they mutually exclusive, or the intention was to have either or but would ...

Whoops - got confused with the Fulltone Fat Boost / AMZ Mini Booster.....sorry.

Still, SHO is a great pedal worth a build and an easy 1st build IMO.

Cheers

Absolutely - give it a go, it is dead simple and works a treat. The only trick is the reverse log 5k pot, which can be a little hard to find. But I've had good results with a linear taper though (but reverse log is best).

Great pedal, even if it is a rip off of the AMZ Mosfet Booster.......

Thanks for the pics relic_elite. I have one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJmUMshxE2o As far as I'm concerned it doesn't change your tone at all.. just the volume.. so game over for me. Any chance of some gut shots / schematic?! Very interested in the UA...... BTW - where in Oz are you ...

are you sure the cap goes to ground? :hmmm: would've thought it'd be a treble bypass something like this: http://seymourduncan.ru/new/s/treble-bleed_mod.jpg Thanks - I might just build this into a pedal! Topics merged. Use the search function :wink: ... Apologies - need to touch up on my search ski...

I know it's a fairly simple design but i'm having trouble figuring out how to put it together. Anyone have any tips. +1 please!! Probably a simple voltage divider network, but I've heard about the use of inductors to retain high end so unsure of the internals. Or if there are any other designs that...

A quick question (apologies if it has been covered before, spent a long time going through the various threads and couldn't find an answer). If I keep the two 1N4148 diodes and also have the 9.1v zener, is this an issue? Are they mutually exclusive, or the intention was to have either or but would ...

Which layout did you use? Here you go. I used the one where the pot is soldered to the vero, but the pot works in reverse (due to the way I solder it on the copper side)! If I were to do it again, I would add another row in the vero and reverse the pot that way (which is what I've done recently wit...

A quick question (apologies if it has been covered before, spent a long time going through the various threads and couldn't find an answer). If I keep the two 1N4148 diodes and also have the 9.1v zener, is this an issue? Are they mutually exclusive, or the intention was to have either or but would h...

Thanks - I cheat and use 2 x 9v batteries! From what I can tell, aside from the switching and the omission of R6 (100k output resistor), our vero's are electrically the same, no? I am going to buzz the resistors to make sure I didn't mix up a 22k with a 220k etc. Cheers Here's a vero layout for the ...

I have built a EP Pre clone, but having a few problems. Here is my layout. The switches are as follows: 1. DPDT - adding additional source bypass caps in parallel with the original for more gain. These are soldered directly to the switch. 2. SPDT - select between original output section from EP Pre ...

very neat! Thanks - it's actually only my second proper build (have had a few still borns though, if I'm honest!). First was the SHO which I also posted. I'm a little meticulous and tend to spend a lot of time planning in my head and on paper before committing to housing. I'm happy with the structu...

quaternotetriplet wrote: what do you call those solid silver wires?

It's just a solid core wire I picked up a local Jaycar store (DIY electronics store here in Oz). Nothing special.

Cheers

Here is my SHO build. I really this love this, particularly in my clean channel (I use a local Australian built plexi/Hiwatt style 50w combo). It's a nice sparkle/presence but also some body, and can push out some grit if need be. Very useful indeed. I'm a big fan of soldering pots onto vero's at th...

Here is my Katana build. Got a little tight up near the switches and vero, but I'm pretty pleased with the results. My aim was to replace the voltage doubler with 2 x 9v batteries, so I ended up going with a slighly larger than 1590B case, dimesions are: 118x60x40 (it helped that my local shop had t...

I've done a search and can't find the answer to my question, so I apologise if it is covered elsewhere. I have built an SHO clone - love it! Does wonders for my clean channel. Anyway, on to the problem. I am using a Switchcraft 712A DC Jack, as per below. http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcra...