My Crate had the 220k originally like your powerball. Bumping it to the 330k/3.3k with 1nf snubber cap across the 330k like in the 530/Savage etc made the amp go into the distortion range I wanted with the right amount of compression for my personal taste. I believe the Mark2c also had a 220k. The ...

Excellent build quality, very nice!

Yesterday I changed the flaky tube socket and implemented the boost switch which is a nice addition and does what I expected it to do. I used an 18W power transformer and a Mercury Magnetics Deluxe Reverb transformer. I first tried the amp with a 5Y3 rectifier, which gave me 330V on the plates and 3...

Got mine finished but without the boost switch for now. It sounds pretty good so far. I need to replace the V1 socket as it is flaky and does not make good contact to pins 6 and 8 especially. That amp is quite loud and bright - I guess this is due to the 100pf bright cap. I used ceramic caps for the...

The incomplete chassis lay in my basement for more than one year but recently I picked it up again and it is now much closer to finishing. Transformers are wired and the populated board is in. Need to wire the tube sockets, pots and jacks. Then on to final testing. I am looking very much forward to ...

Thank you very much for sharing the schematic, that is very useful. I have recently acquired the dual channel version (the Burn Unit EQ) and found that it sounds quite different to the Small Fry. One of the differences is that the Burn Unit has a 25k mid pot which allows for much more midrange. The ...

I did another variation of the cap mod. I used a 0.0033uf cap in series with a 22k resistor across the volume pot, which is in essence the Rectifier presence control but turned down completely. Like it so far - takes a bit of the fizz off without neutering the tone. Since the presence pot in the rec...

Got the answer - it's a cap across the volume pot.

Hi, I have an original DB which I bought used. Like it but I have to keep the treble control down at 9.00 - everything above that is too fizzy for my set up. I have read about a "cap mod" for this pedal but could not find any details except that it involves a 2n2 cap. Any input would be gr...

I tried the Bluesmaker circuit in one of my modded Marshalls and found it rather lame. What it did quite well was clean and semi-clean tones. It also could do crunch tones but not that well. I have changed the preamp to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qumL2poI7dQ (except for the tone stack whe...

Let me know if anybody sees a problem with this schematic. No real problem but I believe the grid stop resistors before the power tubes are 1k5, not 7k5 (7k5 is not a standard value). Would not make a real difference though. Also I think the screen grid resistors are 100R, not 110R - again a neglig...

Does this amp have an effects loop? If yes, try the amp's preamp through another power amp and see if the volume returns. Also try another preamp into the amp and see if the volume stays low.

Good luck,
Stephan

It has many names: Concertina, Cathodyne, split-load, etc. It’s about as common phase splitter type as the LTP and I've seen it used in literally hundreds of other amps besides Oranges. Yes, the Fender E-series, BF Princeton, VHT/Fryette, London Power, Vox Nighttrain and many others. BTW I have set...

bancika wrote:isn't that the same one like in some orange amps? concentrina or something like that

Correct, that is a concertina, aka cathodyne or split load inverter.

I attach a schem which was published at AX84. It's the 18w Daisycutter.

Cheers Stephan

Hi, late to the party but What do you think about cutting out the Dr Z tonestack and putting in the Deluxe Reverb Tonestack? Well it really is'nt that simple, considering that the tone stack from the Deluxe was designed to be driven by a triode stage with an approximated output impedande of ca 40k a...

I once built a #39 version into my SLP RI which was quite similar to what you have posted but mine had only one gain control, a different interstage attentuator between stage 2 and stage 3, no bypass cap on stages 3 and 4 and a switch where I could add a 10k resistor to the second stage cathode resi...

Mato_ZA wrote: What does the orange arrow represent? Shielded wire?

Yes, that's how I would interpret it.

Cheers Stephan

maybe this is the answer... "It runs 2 EL34 power valves giving approx 80 Watts of that awesome Orange power. The secret (well, not really a secret) of the huge harmonic tone of these old Orange and Matamp amps is the non symetrical driver stage which while being harder on your power vales and...

I would consider buying an 18 watt kit. The chassis is drilled for 3 preamp tubes and 2 EL84 output tubes and a 6X4 (EZ81) rectifier. That would give you a normal channel (with one half 12AX7) and a top boost channel (this needs one and a half 12AX7s). Even the pot and jack locations are at convenie...

First up before you do anything at all - contact Nik at ceriatone and ask for his thoughts. My experience with amplifiers like this (no negative feedback in power amp section), is they can be quite flubby in the bass region. To add negative feedback to this amp is not the easiest though, but it wou...