I'm assuming from the lack of other comments or the absence of this topology from the boutiquers over the last decade-and-a-half that this doesn't actually sound that good? I'm intrigued though by the adjustable symetry of the clippers so I may have a go with it to see what happens.

Okay - I retract my earlier comment - "unique" to me is a level above "original" and shouldn't be based on mods of existing designs. I'm still confused though as by posting the board this was going to come out really quickly anyway. I suppose the 'big box' ltd editions will have ...

By posting both sides of the board he definitely knew that anyone on the internet who remotely cared would know what the circuit was based on within 24 hours. Putting two building block circuits together with a minor tweak to at least one of them just about crosses the line to ‘original design’ for ...

Try playing with the 1k in the feedback loop of the second Opamp - increase it or replace it with a 10k pot.

Why not install a VVR instead? Then you just have an extra knob at the back (or front if you can fit it in) of your amp allowing you to attenuate the volume electronically.

Google 'Dana VVR' and you'll see lots of detail (as well as some places offering kits).

Someone on eBay is selling an elektronika (Russian) auto wah and has been kind enough to include a clear factory schematic in the listing: http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=321780553508&category=41420&pm=1&ds=0&t=1434356068744 I'm not good at all ...

Continuity but no sound suggests ground being an issue to me.

Don't forget that although Tru-Oil has a similar feel to an oiled wood finish it's not (despite the name) a 'true' oiled wood finish - it's a polymer-enriched oil that does seal the wood with a solid finish. So it won't get dirty from your hands. In fact if you apply enough coats of Tru-oil you can ...

Also, from squinting at the tiny picture it looks as though you migh have your ground and input/output wires the wrong way round. The innermost tag is the ground. This looks like it's connected to your red wire (which you said was in/out) This will cause problems if you're sharing power with other p...

Is this thread serious? This is the absolute beginners section - I think we should cut some slack. Bafyre - it's not very clear what you're asking, but the sound cutting out when the leads touch is normal as you are shorting the signal to ground. What makes you think it's the jacks and not some oth...

I just got hold of some ancient 2u2 capacitors which I was thinking of using in some fuzz face builds. I know mojo is bunk but sometimes it's fun to build with smd, and sometimes it's fun to build with stupidly big vintage components. image.jpg The text at the top says 'STC' which I assume means the...

I tend to change my mind every couple of months or so as to which is best - solid core can break, and seems more prone to dry joints, but stranded wire can be less neat, (more prone to spaghetti) and more likely to short circuit due to stray 'hairs'. Best of both worlds is pre-bonded hookup wire, bu...

*edit* double post

That pedal is a (mostly) clean booster - if you search on this forum for "super hard on" you'll find a huge amount of discussion on how it works. Unfortunately I expect the cool sounds you are getting from it are mostly due to the input of your amp being hit by a much more amplified signal...

I was getting sick of continually failing to build a satisfactory MKI, despit trying scores of different transistors and layouts, so I decided to make a cheats 'tweakable' SMD-based layout. It features 1M trimmers for faking leakage on all 3 transistors (and dialling in 'correct' voltages) and 1k tr...

Why do you want to make these changes? Is it just because they're the only components you have, or is there another reason? For the sake of a few pence I'd just buy the right resistors. I'd worry about a 5k bias on the 2nd transistor, but it might well be fine. Why not stick it on the breadboard and...

I'm not sure I understand the question. It wasn't any more effort than a purely thru-hole build. I build mostly smd now and agree with this - the components are way cheaper, and it's a lot quicker to build - no leads to clip or (if you're etching a pcb) holes to drill! Come on in, the water's lovel...

And if you want to know the why, rather than the how, you could do worse than read the 4 articles here:

http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/catego ... s/op-amps/

You'll find the answer in article 4 'divided negative feedback', but you'll need to read the other 3 for it to make sense.

Wow. How can you look at the schematic and see exactly where I need to put it? Amazing! I only had a 100k pot that would fit, so the range is between 7 and 9, but I can go from blues to full blast in thAt range. Much more manageable now. Thank you!!!! :) In Mictester's case, education and lots of e...

Do you mean an FX86? Schematic is here: http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schemview.php?id=346 Are you modding, or building? The latter would be easier I expect. I'm not great on the tech side, but if it was me I'd start on the breadboard and play with pots replacing the 220k and 100k resis...