The 15V marker is what's silkscreened on the original Philosopher's Tone board. You're right, it won't actually be 15V unless you provide a 15V power supply. I don't know why they left that on there, I guess it's the average value of 12 to 18V. On the clone I built from Harald's vero layout, I used ...

91K is the correct value. 150R would give you too high a voltage with an input of about 18V.

This info is hiding at the bottom of the last image: "Wah pot is Dunlop Hot Potz II - 100K".

Confirmed: This is a Boss CS-2 clone (using a LM13700N instead of BA662A), with adjustable blend of compressed/dry signal.

I haven't yet fully traced the circuit, but I'm about 75% done and at this stage it is looking like it's a Boss CS-2 with a blend mod to mix the dry and compressed signal.

IC is LM13700N, FETs are J201 and transistors are 2N3904.

I used this one: http://au.element14.com/multicomp/1md6t ... /155018501
Check the datasheet on that page for the pin configuration for each switch position.

The schematic works fine for me - if you left-click on the image it links to a much larger version which isn't blurry at all.

Sounds like something's wrong on your build - on mine, with the blend all the way down the pedal passes the dry signal only. And the LED is just used for its clipping characteristics in the dirt part of the circuit and likely won't light up as it's not intended to be a visual indicator.

Yep, the diode 'D7' on both the schematic and on hbo's vero layout is a 1N60 germanium diode. As for running at 16 volts, it will probably work since the PCB in the actual pedal has a test point marked '15V'. However I've only tested it using a charge pump circuit putting out 18V so I can't say for ...

Liquids wrote:It's a shame, but if you can't get or afford a decent, fast optocoupler (not just ANY optocoupler - the VTL5C2 is incredibly slow and useless here, FYI), this pedal may not be worth you trying to build it.

Indeed - I tried a VTL5C2 and it performed really badly in this circuit.

There's not too much to go on in your post, so I guess standard debugging steps should apply here such as: * Check all electrolytic caps are oriented correctly * Measure the voltage for all active pins of the opamp (pins 2,3, 4, 6 and 7) * Measure voltage of battery (or power supply) * Double check ...

I suppose you could connect the 97v and 176v windings in series to get about 380vdc out. Looks like a beast of a transformer.

Yes most definitely. When I had it on the breadboard I used a 7660SCPA in a chargepump circuit, and when I get around to boxing up the vero that's what I'll be putting in there.

Yep, I've done this on a number of occasions and it seems to work well. I use pins from right-angle header connectors to solder to the PCB:

Thanks for the tip - may have to try this out some time.

In my last post, I should have mentioned that the current draw measurements were done on my vero build. This doesn't yet have an indicator LED so this would need to be factored in as well.

I don't know about the LDR, you'd have to check the datasheet for the VTL5C6 and decide from the specs: http://optoelectronics.perkinelmer.com/content/DataSheets/DTS_vtl5c6c7.pdf I tried both the KE-10720 LDR from Tayda, as well as the 9203 LDR from Small Bear but they both didn't respond quickly en...

In the last week or so, the forum has been timing out with a MySQL error: Screen shot 2011-12-27 at 2.22.33 PM.png The forum becomes unavailable for maybe 15 to 30 minutes, and then it seems to go back to normal. There have been other similar error messages in addition to the one attached, but all s...

Here's the 3205 and 3005 files I had saved.