So what is that cap across the feedback resistor for again? And why did you guys omitted it from your EJ FF schematics?

It took me a couple of afternoons to make a working and good looking pedal out of it - new sockets, new switch, re-glue the rubber, punch a bigger hole in it so i can possibly change the switch again without removing it, and to change a few funny looking wires. By the way the quality of the wires in...

I got it, it is 1/16''.

By the way the rubber is not glued on the pedal, it just sticks on some sort of an adhesive foil, so don't put it on sun or it may peel

Could one of the American guys please tell me what size hex key fits into the screws in the knobs? My knobs are loose and i don't wanna screw up on them, they are pretty :). Actually, the jack sockets are pretty horrible, i had to exchange them. The are not made for the enclosure, the wall is thinne...

I have purchased one original JH-F1.

Q2c: 6,67V
Q1b: 0,6V
Q1c: 1.3V

Excellent, thnank you!

Guys has anyone measured the collector voltages on an original 18V Power Boost?

I was also measuring many types of LDRs. I used the Uni-Vibe LFO and had my LDRs just sticked in and connected to a voltage divider with an output buffer. So i could measure them under the exactly same conditions as they are meant to be. I used oscilloscope with a transient recorder feature to see t...

Mate you have a big thank for the sacrifice. :hug: Can you please post a sound sample when the thing is back together? Also, when you measure the LDR's (i assume you use a voltage divider to get the LDR voltages -> resistance) keep on your mind that the oscilloscope probes are about 1M ohm and you a...

500 ohms trimmer (the bulb adjustement) and 100k for R37 makes perfect sense (helps to equal the volume of chorus and vibrato). 10n for C13 is a huge surprise indeed.

Electric Warrior wrote:For Gilmour you probably want the 18V version.

I asked Bjorn from gilmourish.com for the same thing, his opinion was 9V.

Use 47k on the Q2 collector and you won't have troubles to bias it via. Q3 collector. TBMKII is for sure a fuzz face type circuit. Higher voltage on Q3c comes with louder and more transparent sound, smaller voltages come with mushier sound. Use a pot for Q3c bias to regulate the voltage right on the...

By the way, did anyone here compare the Mojo Vibe and Neovibe with a fuzz/distortion unit placed before them?
I really wonder why is the fuzz sound so smooth and nice when you run it through the Mojo and so swashy when you run it through the Neo.

In the piece i reversed some time ago R13 was 100k, probably to get unity volume between chorus and phaser.
Also the input res was 22k (at least this is in my notes).
The thing didn't work as good as Neo (less prominent phasing), but cut through a fuzz box very nicely (unlike Neo).

I planned to build MKII which is what i am gonna do with them. No, the seller did not say they were hi gain. They are low gain, because they are supposed to be low gain. I just want to say that OC81D were not hi gain in general, although you can run into that opinion quite often. Yes they are Mullar...

I have recently bought 12 pieces of vintage, black glass OC81D. All of them gain 26-40. Just for your information. There were some debates about their gain.

The 5p cap is a standard way to get rid of fizzing trebles in gain stages in general. I believe it was a well known trick at that time.
Thanks for the schematics, it looks interesting.

Guys what transformer is that? It seems to be 220V/ 2x18V but i need VA - i have one unit here and the transformer is dead, i have to replace it ....

Was the suppfuzz replica enclosure you've got just a lucky buy or someone really makes them? I want one too

Geee, i've just found out that you guys opened the long sealed Pete's Pandora box
Thank you very much for that. Interesting results, definitely. So it's a Muff with couple of buffers and some
nifty filtering, which i am honestly not sure what it that about.