ggbb wrote:Also - so D4 is a BATxx schottky not 1N270 germanium. Any idea which BATxx? There are notable differences in Vf within the BAT4x family.

BAT41, very similar Vf to germanium

Cub wrote:ProCo SOLOHot: CDHS270 antiparallel with a 1N4148
Melt: red 5mm LED antiparallel with a CDHS270
Burn: red 5mm LED antiparallel with two 1N4148 diodes in series.

thx! so again a different combination of diodes is the real difference.

ggbb wrote:All that and still no answer about which diode is "right". :(

thank you very, much, very interesting anyway

(Hey, I wrote this post in the Modern Stompxes forum since I was talking about the actual components type of the real pedal of the original schematics, not about a cheap copy, is the Administrator who moved it here? why?)

Hi, some ago I modded a RAT2 putting two 1N34A diodes, whis is, as far as I know, what it is supposed to be in a You Dirty Rat circuit (since I have another stock RAT2 the comparison is easy and I prefer hands down the YDR sound). BUT, reading around in various forums, the info about the right type ...

It is just me and my rig (les paul + RI princeton) or rising the gain the pedal become intolerably middy?

Any good hearted guy boldly tracing it around?

thank you

Thank you very much for your help Phatt, I'll try the mod as soon as possibile!

Ok, tried it, I don't like it :lol: The sound it's very marshally but it's dull, I had to cranck the gain and/or the treble, otherwise it seemed muffled and dull. The only usable position is in front of my TImmy, to boost it, that way it opens up a bit, but my Ts9 or my hardwire cm2 works way better...

itìs a Leslie. If you want a weirdly good leslie on a budget sound get a 2nd hand digitech Crossroad pedal: it's a clapton signature awful (yes, awful) attempt to reproduce a number of Clapton distinctive sounds, BUT the 'Badge' position is worth the cost of the pedal, it's the only usable of all th...

Update: it wasn't the switch, I changed with no results, it took a bit to find it but in the end it was the malfunctioning opamp. I replaced it with a TL072CN I had at home, now it works without problem. (It was the first time I encounterd a defective opamp in a pedal indeed, it's always a matter of...

Thank you very much MoonWatcher, I'll double check the switch first following your advices

Reviving this old thread... I've just bought a Drivemaster, good external condition, it seems nobobody touched inside BUT it doesn't work properly, in fact the sound bypassed AND the effected sound, both seem like they're muffled, like there would be a tone control dimed. That leads me to think the ...

I can't find the 'thank you' button anymore but, thank you anyway

Of all the overdrive and distortion I had in my life (many), the Timmy is the most useful and beautiful, killer tone, killer construction. Coupled with a OCD and a AMZ miniboost, this is the best pedal rig I've ever had so far regarding distortion. I originally made a clone, then I bought an origina...

it depends on the bc107 you havem, it has normally different hfe than the bc108c.
If you have one, try with a tester a bunch of transistors looking for an hfe closer to the one reported in the schem to start with

I've personally classified this circuit in the WOT section (where WOT means Waste Of Time).

Disappointing, nothing more than a sort of timmy without the output OAmp.

topologically is similar, components values differ

This makes sense for a simple generic bjt buffer. I generally make buffer like that with a Fet, even simpler, a 1M from gate to ground, drain to V+, Source to a 10K to ground, output capaictor bigger enough, 4 components. I'm interested in the R13 value: I used a 10K in a buffered FF I built some ag...