I was worried I might be feeding you false information on the Q3 - Q6 voltages but there is a post on this forum giving voltages measured on an original Boss CE-1 here:

viewtopic.php?t=29186

These values broadly match the ones I measured on my breadboard.

Do you have one of those multi-testers like the TC-1, anything which lets you test transistors? It would be worth checking Q5 and Q6 out of circuit if you can.

I think the transistor voltages are off. Based on what I measured, the collectors of all 4 transistors should be sitting at about -7V. The bases and emitters of Q3 and Q4 should be sitting at around OV. For Q5 and Q6 the emitter and base voltages sound OK. Maybe check Q5 and Q6 to see if the emitter...

Only one thing springs to mind from the photos, the transistor sockets. I like turned pin sockets as well but I have had a case where they didn’t make good contact - it was an MXR noise gate clone. Maybe check you have continuity?

I didn’t try to match them, either in my original build or when I breadboarded it, so, as far as I know, you don’t need to.

I thought I’d breadboard the Q3 - Q6 section and after a couple of false starts I’ve got it working. I can confirm it produces the inverted and non-inverted clock signals to the BBD. I checked my original build and I used BC560 transistors for the 2SA493 and SC1815Y for the 2SC536F. I hope this helps.

I built the CE-1 several years ago using Crazy Patroche’s layout and I used the 7136 adapters. Pins 1 and 5 of the TL071 don’t need to be connected. I managed to source an MN3002 so I can’t comment on the TDA1022. If the LFO is working and it sounds like it is if the rate LED is flashing and changin...

Thanks to you both. I was considering removing the footswitch and using a loop box to switch it in and out.

The thing I really don't like with Wah Wah pedals is the on/off switch under the treadle, the way you can't avoid contact with it when you are working the treadle. I remember seeing a Wah Wah pedal with a slightly different design where the switch is under the treadle but there is a hole immediately...

He really knows his stuff. In a tape deck repair he actually rewound the motor. There is not much seems to stump him, taking on very complicated gear right across the spectrum. He repaired a chorus pedal with a faulty Reticon chip and was not amused when the chips he had all turned out to be fake. H...

Try increasing the value of C12, 30pf. I recently repaired a Rat clone which had the same problem. I ended up using around 100pf and this solved the problem.

I’ve finally (almost) finished. Over Christmas I put an 8 ohm speaker I already had into a diy cabinet made out of an old melamine cupboard door. I’ve set this up with another speaker so I can sit in the middle and I am very pleased with the sound. It doesn’t need any extra pedals or even reverb and...

I have used back-to-back transformers a few times in the UK, using transformers with 12V secondaries to power the heaters in series. The problem is that with 240V, you end up with less than 200V under load for the HT supply, not enough for something like a Fender Champ. This is where a voltage doubl...

Sorry it didn’t work out for you. I can only guess that they selected specific MN3207s to work in the existing circuit. I don’t understand why they didn’t put in a bias adjuster. I must have spent nearly 2 weeks on that when I breadboarded it before I gave up and grafted in a different chorus design...

I also saw the Uncle Doug video and used the doubler in a Fender Champ build. It worked fine.

I have got it up and running now. I replaced the TDA2030s and both channels are working with chorus on one channel and the straight signal on the other. I changed the capacitor values C22 and C46 which connect to the 1K5 resistors on pin 2 of the TDA2030s to 22uf (from 4.7uf on the schematic). This ...

I connected the board up to the full transformer, a 2 x 15V toroidal and the voltage was too high, about +20v/-20V. I think I’ve cooked the TDA2030s in the process. I have changed over to a 2 x 10v transformer I already had and the voltages are lower, still too high for the MN3207. To sort this out,...

I have assembled the main board without the power chips for the moment. I tested it without the BBD chips to make sure the voltages were OK and I’m glad I did. I used a 12V bipolar power supply I had and while the other chips are getting about 9.3 volts, the sockets for the MN3207 and MN3102 are mea...

Would you like the Kicad files sent to you?

Excellent, this really helps.