probably easier to build an NPN RR/RM treble boost since the one you attached is PNP and the Klon is "standard" neg ground.

Sweet jesus... :slap: [ Image ] And you better use two seperate resistors for those 51R and 91R. I've been told the inductance of the copper trace in between has been tuned to form an overall bandpass at 666Hz. Teh devil's toanz. How very useful...thanks so very much for your thoughtful insight and...

Im hoping someone could clear the air on the Cornish buffer (G2 same as LD-1?) and provide a definitive version that best reflects the LD-1. There seems to be at least 4 varying "verified" versions of this buffer....at least as it relates to the G2 The main difference seems to be in the pr...

Has anyone modded one of these to be true bypass. Mine says "True Bypass" on it, but I plugged it in without a battery tonight and nothing. After a bit of research, all I could find was a mention that it actually has millennium bypass implemented incorrectly....had it in front of my DAM Su...

FYI: I have one of these coming my way... I finally will own a DAM! I'll answer any questions if you still are unclear on any values... Lucky Bastard! :thumbsup You have other Pigdog MKI to compare, right? Agreed, nice score! I had a Jerms MKI and a Pigdog Electric Eye....sold them both....HUGE mis...

Besides.. I'd never figure out how to route that freaking 9V battery compartment anyways FOR THE REST OF YOU GUYS/GALS Dril a couple of holes, file file file file file file file until your fingers are sore. Been there, done that :D Cleanest way I've found is to drill the 4 corners of the hole to a ...

here's a place to get your parts a lot cheaper: http://www.taydaelectronics.com but you might still need this or that from Mouser, or somewhere else, like Pedal Parts Plus, Small Bear Electronics, Effects Connection, Mammoth Electronics, or any of the PCB selling sites, etc. Or if you need a differ...

I just find this buffer too complicated for what it is, with all the bootstrapping components and the totally useless resistor network at the output cluttering the design (it is not even a buffer if you loose signal!). My opinion: Make an SHO. It is super simple, no bootstrapping capacitor that wil...

Well, that resistor you are talking about is R9 on the vero build. In that case, 50R is just fine. (And no, the 'E' is no spelling mistake) The resistor you can leave out from the vero is R10. Thanks again sorry for the confusion...sorry about the n00b questions...I appreciate the patience and help...

I don't understand where you are getting the 50R from, because it's not in either of those schematics (we are talking about Darkside-R39 / G2-R40, right?). Anyway, you don't need the resistor, it does nothing but waste space. Why Mr. Cornish included it, I don't know. And to repeat, a small value r...

Leave it out completely, all it does is lower your level a tiny bit. If you have to use it for the sake of authenticity, 50R would be completely wrong, stressing the transistor way too much. Using that non-standard value instead of 47k doesn't make any sense either. Make it 47k-100k or something li...

Here is the schematic I used and the verified vero I created from it. My experience with this buffer is that is has a nice natural "feel" compared to some others I have tried such as the simple IC buffer and other one transistor types. I think the input impedance may be a little low for g...

BaldPaul wrote:File unavailable. What gives?

Would really enjoy (all) the original docs that were posted...anyone care to re-post them?

Cheers!

I took a stab at the real Red Rooster Layout. The 1 meg resistor isn't present on earlier versions and it's placement seems weird to me. Some parts such as the jumpers, trace cuts, pot values and the smaller input cap value are guesswork but the jumpers would have to be present for the trimmer on t...

I took a stab at the real Red Rooster Layout. The 1 meg resistor isn't present on earlier versions and it's placement seems weird to me. Some parts such as the jumpers, trace cuts, pot values and the smaller input cap value are guesswork but the jumpers would have to be present for the trimmer on t...

I know... ancient thread, but I am not about to pay $40 +Shipping for a Powerplate to power up my Phase90. Will a 300ohm resistor, 1N4001, and a 100uF electrolytic cap in series with the + side take care of things? Thats what it looks like in the pics at least....Anyone have a Powerplate they can lo...

That's a great video by the way Taller76 - I really can't hear much if any real difference between your pedal and the DAM SSMKII. Excellent work! Are they OC84s you're using? Thanks for the kind words...mine seems to have a bit more top end bite in some places compared to the DAM....but other than ...

Electric Warrior wrote:Thank you
The 15901P is huge, why not make it a double Tone Bender and put both circuits in?

why didnt I think of that....

That looks great! fantastic build.
I'm still a few weeks from finalizing mine, still haven't decided what to put it in, I only have 1 big honking 1590P1 and I think I may put a MK1.5 in there...I will probably keep it small...no hurry on this end I guess.

Sounds great man...thats the thing I like about these...you can get a ton of variation out of this circuit just by making little tweaks. I'm hoping that honky is a good thing :wink: , I just listend to my DAM SSTBMKII and the stuff on Truth...mine turned out to have a little more top end bite than m...