It's called a lockwasher, and you can buy them at all kinds of places, but small bear electronics, a great DIY pedal resource, has them here: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1274 And don't forget the flat washer that goes on the outside (usually comes with the jack): http://www.smallb...

Did you use this page: http://www.handmades.com.br/forum/index ... e=procorat ?
If so, the only schematic/layout I'm seeing is the tonepad link.
Otherwise, link the exact page in handmade.com.br that you followed.
Just want to agree upon a schematic before confusion sets in.

Take new pictures.
Use more light.

And you're using the tonepad schematic, right? "La Rata?"

Can you try an audio probe? https://www.google.com/#q=audio+probe

You're still confusing me. :scratch: The Marshall head you linked to will only accept line input . You're sure that's what you want? That's about 20x the signal strength of what you're passive guitar pickups put out. Also, that Marshall would probably fall under the category of "BIG" for m...

It's not clear what you're looking for. On the one hand, it appears you're asking for a tube power amp schematic. This implies that the input will be line level. On the other hand, perhaps you want an amp with a "guitar" input but without any EQ controls. My first tube amp build was a Fend...

Excellent info tube-exorcist! I made a quick examination of the mystery 14 pin chips yesterday, and it did not appear to be compatible with a LM324. That's pretty much when I decided to post. Glad I did! This is going to speed up my tracing.

I have on the bench a somewhat mysterious Bad Stone. The circuit board number is "EH 5800" and the pot codes are 1377407 for the RATE, and 1377418 for the BLEND (decodes to 1974, both). I wasn't sure if I should post in "vintage" or "modern," so I let the pot codes sway...

Once you have replaced them, there is also no way of telling if there has been much/any improvement, unless you put all the original and replacement caps on a great big multi-pole switch so you can A-B test "before" and "after". Or if you have a second identical pedal to leave s...

D2 reads 760 R38 READS 478 pin6= 2.78v WHEN MEASURING VOLTS FROM THE DC JACK I GET 9.08V ON THE BATTERY LEAD (NO BATTERY IN) AND LIKE 2.6V IS ON THE LEAD CONNECTED TO THE BOARD(9) *ALSO I NOTICED ON MY METER WHEN I CONNECT TERMINALS I GET THE (-) SIGN ON THE READINGS WHICH SAYS TO ME THE GROUND AND...

If it still has the label on the bottom, see if it is an ACA powered pedal. ACA means 12V. You can mod it for 9V use by changing a resistor and diode with jumpers. Or use a 12V adapter. Otherwise, check with a voltmeter what kind of voltage you're getting using the power supply. Since the positive v...

Googling "boss cs-2 gut" I got this: http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stomp-box/329771-i-usually-like-gut-shots-amps-but-here-some-pedals-i-like-2.html Post #35 That, and the schematic should have numbers for each wire pad that you'll see on the PCB. If it's a jack, footswitch, or battery issue,...

I don't see shoddy soldering. More to the point- our eyes are never the best judge of an electronic circuit. Use your multimeter on low resistance or continuity beeper to check your soldering jobs. Use the voltages to see what's going where. If you have a loose connection, you're almost there. Keep ...

I just quickly read some of that page and checked the schematic. I think you're suppose to connect the +/anode side of LED to the output of IC3B, which is also the clockwise terminal of the depth pot, then cathode/- LED to resistor, then ground. (LED and resistor can be in either order, so long as L...

Perhaps I should take a step backwards and ask another basic question to you guys with the scopes - do you only turn them on when you have a problem to troubleshoot because a build doesn't sound right, or is it guaranteed use even on every build just like your soldering iron? Mine's plugged in all ...

Q1 C- .66 B- 0 E- 0 Q2- C- .02 B- .66 E- 0 Q2 emitter needs voltage there, and that will supply Q1 base. Check for short to 0V on Q2 emitter. Low resistance check with meter, no eyeballing or cutting. Check that the transistor legs are really connected to circuit board through socket. Low resistanc...

You're correct, I only have one wire going to the DC jack, the red 9V coming from the board There's at least one problem for you. You need 2 wires coming from the dc jack. You also need the negative from the power supply, and this gets connected to ground. It may not be explicitly mentioned, but th...

Can't quite see what's going on with your power jack. Almost looks like it only has 1 wire connected to it. There are 2 wires, right? What's the voltage measurement right at the power jack? Red and black probes right at the jack. Does the LED light up? What transistors are you using? The device numb...

If you don't need/want gain (maybe you're feeding the mixer from pedals with some boost anyways...) then forget the drawings I posted. If the audio is being passed from one stage to the next, it's a coupling cap, not a decoupling cap. Think a row of train cars coupled together. Power supplies and RF...

I'm getting lost on where you want to put the extra amp(s). If going with a quad op amp (TL074, etc), you've got 2 for the original mixer, and you're adding a third... before the mini mixer schematic, right? Where ever you end up sending the raw, passive guitar signal, it should see >1Meg input impe...

You need 1 mic input (first channel), 1 send to the lex (a send out), 1 return from the lex (the second channel), and an output for the venue. A 2 channel mixer is all I see as being needed . Not a terribly difficult DIY job, but a there's a lot of cheap and cheerful mixers out there that should mak...