Who has the device and can try HEF4069UBN (or similar) instead 74HC14N, what is your opinion, whether an adequate substitute? P.S. Sorry for my English). Those parts are not the same. A 4069 is functionally the same as a 7404 / 74C04 / 74HC04; they're all hex inverters. 7414's are hex-schmitt-trigg...

resistor ID: I can never be bothered with colour identification of resistors.. I'd normally want to check them anyway to ensure I wasn't making a mistake or they weren't mis 'labelled'.. so whack them in the DMM and let that tell ya.. simplest solution. I can read the 3 bands without thinking about...

Got the whole thing breadboarded now. Totally off the hook. Gonna tweak the thing to my liking then I've got to figure out how to box it up.

It'd be easier to answer the question with some context. What IC's are being removed, and what are they being replaced with? Do you have a schematic for us to reference?

If you're using a 3PDT switch for true bypass/stompbox operation, then it needs to be wired the same way regardless of what circuit you're connecting to. The only optional parts of that diagram switch wiring are the LED and ground connections, but most people want that. Please note that even though ...

My PLLs aren't here yet as they're coming from asia, but I just finished breadboarding the fuzz section. This thing is insane.

If it's in working condition, sound clips please.

Any through-hole part can be socketed. The point of the socket is to make a permanent connection from board->socket, rather than the normal board->part, so parts can be swapped in and out without having to de- and re-solder every time. The type of part doesn't matter so long as you make a good conne...

My Philosopher King came in the mail today, and I think I'm in love. This makes every other comp I've used look bad. I've built one, and I changed R6 to 100K to lift volume. Do you know if is possible to insert a pot for "attack" control (or "swell", like philo king)? Where into ...

Nevermind, I figured it out. Parts will be here in a few weeks.

I'm placing my parts order now, but I have a question: On digi2t's vero, IC7 is a CD4017BE but IC6 is a C B 4017BE. Google and DigiKey don't turn up much of anything on the latter. Is that a typo? What kind of wattage should those trim pots be rated for? Also, anyone know how the Infanem Second Voic...

Might be an obvious source but the first section of wikipedia's flanging article explains it pretty well.

Did this work on the breadboard? I'm wondering if my advice was right or wrong.

Anyone know if there are significant differences between the original SCF and the SMD reissue?

Sounds (and looks) like something 80's Sonic Youth would use.

I'd love to watch the demo, but your video is marked as private.

The LED is white. The resistor in the bottom right hand corner that's covered by the electrolytic looks like brown-red-black-black-brown.

Inside this fine optical compressor:

(sorry for the lousy phone pics)

That specific connection causing the failure? Probably not, because if it were a power connection problem, the pedal would never work. However, bad soldering somewhere else on the board could be causing your (presumed) overheating problem.

My bet is the PT2399 is overheating and locking up. To diagnose, I would:

1. Unbox the unit enough that you can get to the IC's.
2. Plug the pedal in.
3. feel the PT2399
4. play until it locks up
5. feel the PT2399 again - if it's warm/hot, that's probably your problem.