Check for DC on the pots. You may have a leaky cap or two.

I'd have to look over the schematic, but I doubt the ldr's are too fast. If anything, they may be too slow going to a high resistance.

I never encountered an amp with Silonex, but did repair at least a few Tremoverbs that required the replacement resistors/vactrols. I can't speak to why they were driving the LEDs so hard, but I speculate it had to do with getting a low "on" resistance. As far as PCBs, I think it's all dow...

Here is the service bulletin I was referring to (it was for the Tremoverbs): TECH BULLETIN: "Tremoverb" Update *NOTE: This update does not apply to very early units having a 120ohm, 10W sandblock resistor near pwr transformer. The "Tremoverb" amplifier has two 47-ohm, 1/4-watt re...

The fast release is desirable for sure, but I know the pain of sorting ldr's for both fast release and low on resistance. It sounds like you're on the right track. I can't recommend a work-a-like as I always had access to the original vactrols when I was in the business. I'm just getting back into r...

Is there a reason you want to replace the film caps? I would leave those alone unless they are leaky. As far as the vactrols, if the dark resistance is sufficient to prevent signal bleed and the light resistance is within spec, it's working as designed. When I did warranty work for Mesa, there was a...

I picked up one of these guys up on a whim and it has become my favorite "only pedal in front of the amp" OD. It also stacks well (I'm currently stacking a blues driver and gainster in front of it). Kudos on a great sounding pedal.

Glad to see fsb back in action. Thank for all of your hard work modman!

The feedback control is either on or off, so it's better off on a switch. I squeezed mine into a 125b, so I won't be changing anything on this build. If I built it again, I would put it on a switch or find a better way to adjust the feedback.

I finally got around to finishing mine and it works great. I put the LPB-1 on a footswitch as an independent boost and it rocks. Instead of making the Manual pot switchable, I put some finger nail polish on the pot's wafer so that the pot would be "off" at it's lowest setting. Then I made ...

I received mine also. They look great!

Those look great!

I'd be interested in 50.

First of all, we need to cut R52/R48 and R52/Q2 base traces, to prevent main voltage acces to Q2 and R48. After that we need to reconnect both to the right side of R52, wich can stay in place, as long as it need yet to be feeded with main voltage. Two little wires can do the job; one from "cut...

I picked up one of these boards, more or less to troubleshoot the lpb-1 section. Here is the fix that worked for me: DSC00809.jpg I had to cut two traces. The point where the 1M, 100k and base meet is connected to the power plane at the 1M's leg. Cut the trace between the 1M and base, and the trace ...

Here is what makes sense to me:

R39 and R40 should make a voltage divider half the supply voltage is on the gate. R41 should be from supply to drain. The trim may be connected with the wiper connected to the + of the cap, one end to ground, the other to source, but that is just a guess. C14 should be coming off the drain to the l...

R39 and R40 should make a voltage divider half the supply voltage is on the gate. R41 should be from supply to drain. The trim may be connected with the wiper connected to the + of the cap, one end to ground, the other to source, but that is just a guess. C14 should be coming off the drain to the le...

Different boards. Maybe we can get the differences after a schematic is done. This is the new resistors values, maybe n8b5150 can check the last few ones (marked with a *): R03 - 5.1k???* R06 - 360k R13 - 20M R22 - 10M???* R25 - 5.1k???* R31 - 10M R35 - 68k Besides that, it's a national holiday her...

What did the shops say needed repaired? Give us some details on the amp and pics, including the chassis guts. Tube amps are simple enough to repair, and $300-400 repair quote means perhaps full retube/recap and/or transformer(s).