Ok so this is a known good design to get round 24 to 25V. However how much current will it be able to draw? Will it be enough to feed a Qtron+? Or will i need to place an extra separate LT1054 in parallel (as image below)?

I bought a germanium PNP fuzz pcb from ebay and built it out. All that's left is the input jack.

It wants a 3 wire jack while all I have is 2 wire jacks. So how do I get this to work? With no power, I have audio output at a low volume and it's pretty Fuzz already. Volume works. Fuzz does nothing currently.

So how do I wire this up? I tried wiring up a 2 wire jack, then jumpering 9v to the empty socket and that didn't work. So I tried jumpering ground to the open socket and that didn't work...

I’m not a huge fan of the RAT, but I really like the circuit design and have built a few clones for people over time. I decided, however, that I’d build one for myself, incorporating all the basic modifications I know and adding a Blend knob as well. The result turned out quite nicely, and since I’ve been mainly playing bass lately, the Dry Blend seems to work great.

It’s still not my tone, tho :lol:
Here's the schematic with some comments (it might not be 100% accurate because I did a lot of...

I bought this box off a car boot for a couple of quid not knowing what it was. The seller didn't know either. It looks like someones DIY effort from the 70s or 80s. The first thing I did was draw out the circuit then I plugged a guitar into it. I don't like the sound much but I think it was almost certainly built as a guitar effect. There's no way that it could be used as an amplifier because it distorts too easily. Does anyone recognise the circuit or is it unique?

Is it me or does the second...

Is there anywhere I can PCBs made that look old-style with brown phenolic and no solder masking?

I got a joyo maximum overdrive which has a RC4558P inside. Usually i like that chip. Its mean sounding. Throaty with good sustain. However i would like to get more gain out of this pedal. And i am wondering if there is any Op-Amp replacement out there, that gives me more of those qualities. More gain, more bite, more sustain, while still keeping the mid range focus. Any ideas which current production chips to try? Also there is a 1 uF cap at EC2, near the gain pot. Would changing the value of...

Just as information.

Hi,

The Vox AC30CC series has small pcb mounted toggle switches on the front panels.
These toggle switches have a cap on top that is apparently glued on with some kind of threadlocker (such as blue loctite?).

I need to remove the pcb for repair and would like to do so without damaging the front panel.

According to a youtube video of Psionic Audio (Lyle Caldwell) the threadlocker can be resolved by using acetone.
I have tried a few times getting acetone in using a q-tip, but no luck so far....

Hi all,

Here’s another traced Landtone (TTone, USDream) schematic This one is for the Landtone Fuzz.

LandtoneFuzz.png
LandtoneFuzzMarked.jpg

This one is component for component identical to the EHX Op Amp Big Muff Pi as drawn in this forum here , save the initial power noise shunting cap (C10 in my drawing, C13 in Gottfried Divos’), and the volume pot (10k-B instead of 100k-B). The pot is RK097 style if you would want to change it out. The cap is fine as it is.

I think the lack of a...

Hi Guys,

I found these gutshots of the CFH somewhere a while ago, forgot about them, got interested in the CFH again, checked back and saw SMD parts. Now I don't know what to think, apart from being a pain in the ass to mod, are SMD parts in anyway affecting the sound? (on one side, the parts will have the same values, but on the other i imagine some reactions might be different?).

I really like the sound of the wah, and the possibilities. I have an Ibanez WD-7 Weeping Demon now, which I...

Hi

I'm a new member and new to pedal building. Thanks for the forum!

I just completed a build based on the Small Bear Electronics Ursa Minor distortion circuit.

I completed the breadboard build and liked the sound of the two main options a) using a Darlington pair of transistors, and b) asymmetric diodes using an Si b2b with a Ge + Si. In fact, I liked it so much I decided to do a full pedal build.

Shipping costs to Australia made ordering the dedicated PCB and enclosure uneconomical,...

The pedal works perfectly in 8 second mode. However, when I switch to 2 or 1/2, the effect doesn't work. When it kicks in, it basically doubles the signal overtop of the input, i.e. Just makes the sound a little warmer. There are no trails, echos, or repeats. The delay controls don't seem to change anything. The controls all work perfectly in 8 second mode however. I've recapped and swapped ICs. I get the voltages on the 4066 when sliding the selector switch. Interestingly, if I jump pins 3&4...

I wish you all a happy new year.

Can someone please help me out? I've tried to figure this out and I'm still not getting it. Theres an in and out and then what? Just find grounds for the other wires on the jacks? I'm lost.

Please help. Thank you!

Screenshot_20250106_032221_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

I have a Dunlop UV-1 that's giving a really soft effect. The controls all work and you can barely hear the changes. I've replaced q16-q18 and tested caps with no success. The bulb is working, but seems to either be not getting bright enough or dark enough. I'm getting the 15V on it. What should the voltage range be on the other side?

Can anybody tell from the schematic what it should be?

Dunlop - Univibe UV-1 - Schematic (2-2).pdf

Since I was bored last night and there wasn't enough light to shoot sharp pictures that would set AG to work: