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Hey Folks. New to this site. I repair old amps and occasionally old pedals.

Trying to understand and get this pedal working correctly.

The pedal is working but I notice the following

The red check LED does not light up. I believe it should be ON when the pedal is active. Or, maybe the older versions did not do this?

When running on a battery I see the full battery voltage at the board.
When running on a wall wort there is a 3V drop at the board which I trace back to the PS adapter socket...

The pedal works perfectly in 8 second mode. However, when I switch to 2 or 1/2, the effect doesn't work. When it kicks in, it basically doubles the signal overtop of the input, i.e. Just makes the sound a little warmer. There are no trails, echos, or repeats. The delay controls don't seem to change anything. The controls all work perfectly in 8 second mode however. I've recapped and swapped ICs. I get the voltages on the 4066 when sliding the selector switch. Interestingly, if I jump pins 3&4...

another blatant Klon clone, nothing new under the sun...
But in V2 they introduce 3 extra transistors? One is a run of the mill 2N3906...
Pics snapped from this video

V1 2022
centavo2022.png

V2 2024
centavo2024_02.png centavo2022_sideview.png

Hi Everyone,

I've just recently been given a Peavey Backstage Plus 35W Solid State guitar amp for nothing, and I'm currently working on it to get it back to a useable state, so, what's wrong with it?

Well, the original speaker is a no-worker but the rest of the amp seems to work fine, I verified this by plugging my pair of headphones into the headphone socket, I get normal sound through my headphones but no sound through the speaker.... :thumbsup

I've managed to find what I think should...

Hi,

I made a vero layout of an Ibanez BP10 bass compressor, based on the schematics of GGG. I checked it several times but could not find an error so far. But my build does not work. I checked the layout again and did the typical soldering troubleshooting, but no success. So I give up and will do some other build. If anybody wants to continue and do some debugging - here it is for free use.

I am curious if anyone here has tried these. They are targeted to HiFi Stereo buffs on AliExpress (I assume Temu and Wish, also).
I actually ordered a couple of one style to goof around with.
OpAmpReplacements.png
I'm just curious if anyone has experience with their use in pedals.
This is the vendor I see most frequently with these:
HuaXinHuiDianZi Store
I mean, if they suck they suck and I'm out about $15 USD.
But I'm curious if anyone else has goofed around with them.

-Have fun!...

Hi all,

Here’s another traced Landtone (TTone, USDream) schematic This one is for the Landtone Fuzz.

LandtoneFuzz.png
LandtoneFuzzMarked.jpg

This one is component for component identical to the EHX Op Amp Big Muff Pi as drawn in this forum here , save the initial power noise shunting cap (C10 in my drawing, C13 in Gottfried Divos’), and the volume pot (10k-B instead of 100k-B). The pot is RK097 style if you would want to change it out. The cap is fine as it is.

I think the lack of a...

Ok so this is a known good design to get round 24 to 25V. However how much current will it be able to draw? Will it be enough to feed a Qtron+? Or will i need to place an extra separate LT1054 in parallel (as image below)?

Is there anywhere I can PCBs made that look old-style with brown phenolic and no solder masking?

I bought a germanium PNP fuzz pcb from ebay and built it out. All that's left is the input jack.

It wants a 3 wire jack while all I have is 2 wire jacks. So how do I get this to work? With no power, I have audio output at a low volume and it's pretty Fuzz already. Volume works. Fuzz does nothing currently.

So how do I wire this up? I tried wiring up a 2 wire jack, then jumpering 9v to the empty socket and that didn't work. So I tried jumpering ground to the open socket and that didn't work...

I’m not a huge fan of the RAT, but I really like the circuit design and have built a few clones for people over time. I decided, however, that I’d build one for myself, incorporating all the basic modifications I know and adding a Blend knob as well. The result turned out quite nicely, and since I’ve been mainly playing bass lately, the Dry Blend seems to work great.

It’s still not my tone, tho :lol:
Here's the schematic with some comments (it might not be 100% accurate because I did a lot of...

I bought this box off a car boot for a couple of quid not knowing what it was. The seller didn't know either. It looks like someones DIY effort from the 70s or 80s. The first thing I did was draw out the circuit then I plugged a guitar into it. I don't like the sound much but I think it was almost certainly built as a guitar effect. There's no way that it could be used as an amplifier because it distorts too easily. Does anyone recognise the circuit or is it unique?

Is it me or does the second...

I got a joyo maximum overdrive which has a RC4558P inside. Usually i like that chip. Its mean sounding. Throaty with good sustain. However i would like to get more gain out of this pedal. And i am wondering if there is any Op-Amp replacement out there, that gives me more of those qualities. More gain, more bite, more sustain, while still keeping the mid range focus. Any ideas which current production chips to try? Also there is a 1 uF cap at EC2, near the gain pot. Would changing the value of...

Just as information.

Hi,

The Vox AC30CC series has small pcb mounted toggle switches on the front panels.
These toggle switches have a cap on top that is apparently glued on with some kind of threadlocker (such as blue loctite?).

I need to remove the pcb for repair and would like to do so without damaging the front panel.

According to a youtube video of Psionic Audio (Lyle Caldwell) the threadlocker can be resolved by using acetone.
I have tried a few times getting acetone in using a q-tip, but no luck so far....