Nothing much to see here with all the smd components. But I know others have been curious as well is this is just a crushing orange , bb pre, clone. It doesn’t sound like the bb preamp. Or, atleast the taper on the gain and level react differently. Isn’t near as loud as the crushing orange or bb pre either. All I could make out were the 2 TL072 op amps and 2 diodes d1 and d2. Maybe 1n914 or 4148s? Anyways I figured @cheapedalcollector may enjoy it.

Tecnica Pratica 1966_12 Tremolo.pdf

Tecnica Pratica 1966_12 Tremolo 01.jpg Tecnica Pratica 1966_12 Tremolo 02.jpg Tecnica Pratica 1966_12 Tremolo 03.jpg Tecnica Pratica 1966_12 Tremolo 04.jpg Tecnica Pratica 1966_12 Tremolo 05.jpg Tecnica Pratica 1966_12 Tremolo 06.jpg

PDF: Radiopratica 1968_11 Vibrato.pdf

Radiopratica 1968_11 Vibrato 02.jpg Radiopratica 1968_11 Vibrato 03.jpg Radiopratica 1968_11 Vibrato 04.jpg Radiopratica 1968_11 Vibrato 05.jpg Radiopratica 1968_11 Vibrato 06.jpg

I took a few shots of the TonoMatch ProTubeScreamer.
It is a high quality pedal in mechanical and electrical workmanship.
Jacks with gold-plated contacts.
True bypass with relay and electronic control.
Only film capacitors in the signal path.
TonoMatch 1.jpg
TonoMatch 2.jpg
TonoMatch 3.jpg

r Vibrato April 1962.jpg

I continue to trace my Exar pedals - today, it's Exar KM-03 Kamikaze. That particular model seems to be quite popular in Poland back in time because I've seen some good mentions about it. I had two units; both had the same components inside, so I traced the one in a slightly worse condition. For another one, I have a box and user manual.

PXL_20230225_192446413.jpg
PXL_20230225_192518975.jpg
PXL_20230225_192529156.jpg

PCB is standard for Exar series 3. However, it uses two SMD ICs, which...

Does anyone know what exactly this does? He doesnt offer it anymore, so I assume it's fair game. I have one lying around that I want to do something with

I would appreciate any help troubleshooting this uni-vibe issue.

This is the uni-vibe with the vintage button. PCB UV-1 Main Board Rev. A July 10, 1997

Power supply is Dunlop ECB004US 18v
1 Amp.

Effects led briefly flashes as power supply is plugged in. Chorus/Vibrato led works as expected when activated but no effect because sw2 never activates.

Voltage regulator is ok. 18v in 15v out.
Effect switch has continuity when activated.
Ribbon cable from switch board to main board has...

Hi,
I received this pedal for repair. Totally not working.
Someone could help me with schematic?
Thank you!

I do quite a few pedal and amp repairs for a music shop so built a 1 kHz 2 transistor multivib signal generator with a 386 amplifier and a 3 inch speaker all in a re-purposed plastic box.

It works fine but the 1 kHz tone gets on your nerves after about 10 seconds so I started using my Strat as a sound source instead. This is not ideal as you have to keep strumming it and strummed open strings get old fast.

I then came across a set of sound samples that The G posted a couple of years ago and...

Hi guys I bought the Appetite for Distortion pedal from PCB Guitar Mania but it's barely making any sound.

I put the red LED backwards (facing up instead of down) so i removed it and i struggle to put it back the right way. I dont think this affects the sound though.

When the pedal is off, the signal is passed through cleanly. When it's on, i can hear the distortion, but it's super low output signal, i can barely hear it. I don't know where i went wrong.

Your help would be appreciated....

I wondered if I could swap the LED/LDR (or opto) for a FET, mosFET or 4049 gate (inspired by the PUP phaser series).

Here's the original:

I wanted to add a buffer, and that leaves me one opamp left on a quad, so I thought: What if I add dry non-inverted signal to the inverted filtered signal? The other frequencies should cancel out and the peaks should get peakier , right?

LTSpice kinda agrees:
( r being the resistance from point A and B to GND, where the opto is originally)

And a...

Hi,
I Have an MXR Analog Chorus that doesn't apply the effect:

- The original/dry sound passes trought the pedal, in both footswitch positions;
- Its a second hand Pedal;
- I don't have the diagram to troubleshoot;
- I disassembled the pedal and verified that the TP2 is missing, and instead, there is one resistor, with one leg in C16 and another led direct to one of the U3 pins;

I need some help trying to troubleshooting this. Sorry some english mistakes.

Hi all,

This is my first post here so let me know whether I am posting in the wrong section, or anything!

I was wondering whether anyone had success building Tim Escobedo's Q&D VCF, or a variant of it (I understand that the topology is an active bridge-T filter, so variants might be published elsewhere).

simplevcf_252_119.gif

I put the second version on a breadboard with my guitar at the input and a digital cab simulation pedal at the output and all I am getting is a nasty metallic...

Does anyone have a schematic for this, or know how it differs from the Distortron i.e. just bigger caps for ins/out and feedback loop?

Pretty surprised to find this official Honey Bee schematic along with a DIY kit:

Might be old news to some, but I wanted to upload the schematic before it disappears.

Wasn't sure if I should bump the old BJF Honey Bee thread from 2009, the values all match up but I guess it is technically a different version. The old thread is a nice time capsule, pretty funny to see comments like I hear Honey Bee's are vapour wear and may perhaps not exist other than in cyberspace;)

I added all the...

Has anyone dissected one of the XTS iridium Fuzz pedals? Love the sound demos on youtube.
I have read that it has Red Llama DNA.

I want to build or purchase an affordable EL34 power amp, either 2x rack unit or small head format. Absolute maximum 50W, ideal 10-20W, as it is just for playing and eventually recording at home. Only power amp & phase inverter, no preamp, as i have a gazillion preamps either made or in the making for it, and a valve head already.

Any recommendations on DIY kits or ready-made products that have a good quality-price ratio?

Thanks in advance!

Davoli DTE 1051T.jpeg Davoli DTE 1051 T.jpeg Davoli 1051T 02.jpeg

The schematic is not complete, what are the stages to the right? And where's the ECL86 pentode stage?
Still the schematic lists the tubes as:
V1 ECC83
V2 ECC83
V3 6AV6
V4 ECL86

Is very much like the little pink amp a restored a few years back. That one was sold off, I just had too many amps around the house, and too little time to play them all. Little Pinkie was very wanted, just because of the color. But it also meant that I had to spend about 275 euro to wrestle it from the hands of some Flemish hipster soccer milf. It needed new tubes, a whole bunch of rewiring, filter caps and a new speaker. Then the guy who bought it haggle down to 350 euro, though I wanted 375....

Have some spill over on channel b and boost not working on one side and led light stays on on boost

Hello

I have been looking for a schematic for the ADA MP1 channel pedal, but no luck. This is the tube pedal. I looked at the VAULT ( and contacted MarshallJMP who sells parts for the old ADA devices.

I also looked to purchase one the pedals, but I do not see them for sale.

Please let me know if you have a schematic you could share, or maybe someone that has one and would be willing to take pictures.

Thanks
Rob

Another Exar pedals tracing, this time it is not one but two effects at once - MT-02 Metal and BM-02 Bad Metal. I traced both at once, as it appeared that they shared a single PCB.

PXL_20221231_150236846.MP.jpg
PXL_20221231_151241700.jpg

Both units seem to be manufactured same year - 1995 according to dates on potentiometers. I have boxes for both of them, but Bad Metal has a user manual, an Exar products catalog, and even a receipt from the store. It was old in 1997 in Warsaw for 77...

Hi, just reporting a repair on my 2006 MXR Dynacomp (rev E. with CA3080).

Problem was a frying bacon sound. I removed the socketed IC and audioprobed it. The noise was at both pin 2 and 3, so it was before the IC. Noise was also at the base of the first transistor, and up to the positive end of C2 (tantalum capacitor).

I replaced C2 with a good electrolytic, and noise is gone. Easy one, just make sure you add some leaded solder to the RoHS one before desoldering, makes it easier to desolder...

Many kilobytes have been spilled attempting to recreate the legendary Harmonic Percolator, and there are some that enjoy going to great lengths to find just the right transistors to recapture its classic sound. I'm more the type that wants to just shove any old BJTs in there and then jank with the rest of the circuit until it goes BRRRRRR...

I started with the Escobedo Harmonic Jerkulator:

Harmonic_Jerkulator.gif

Tim already did the work of finding sane values for a 2n390x transistor...