Don't post in this forum asking is there is a schematic or layout or info on XXX pedal.
There is a subforum setup for requests already. It is located here:
REQUESTS FORUM
Any requests posted here will be moved to proper sub forum, and I'll also make nasty remarks about your mother. :mrgreen:
also, if you have a problem with your build, post it in the WORKBENCH. these threads are for circuit analysis only. by all means, if you discover something we should...
It is not a stompbox (or an effect?) but I hope you will find it interesting.
I started to draw the schematics but it is too complex for my old brain.
u5_front.jpg
u5_back.jpg
u5_back_front.jpg
The 3 sets of 2 transistors on the left and on above the input jack are BD139 and BD140. The transistors in power section are TIP31GC and TIP31GC. The ICs are LF412CN.
Recently i've give a try to some demonfx pedals, since i have not much time to build myself.
The last was demonfx full bb preamp, clone of the two custom shop xotic bb preamp, mid boost and comp versions.
The first thing i noticed when i opened the lid, is that it's based on the single volume pot schematic. That seems not to be correct, as Aionfx tracing journal point out.
The pedal is as usual a copy of the classic ts with a useful active tone section. Is has both the two options sold...
The schematic:
As you can spot it is a Ross Compressor clone; as I marked in RED the changes they made to the schematic. These changes don't sound really good...... my unit was really bright and 'Boring' sounding!!
I have a green box MXR 118 Analogue delay that i have brought back from the dead and am trying to align but cannot find the alignment procedures for clock frequency and location of trim pots anywhere...
It is the SAD1024 version with 118-3001 102 board.
I have found a couple of alignment sheets on here but they are for the PT2399 modded version and refer to trim at point A with no reference to what point A is.
Searches didn't clear up whether this was an optical compressor or not, so I had a look. I am guessing the big black cylinder with a triangle on the board next to it is the LED and photoresistor--does that seem right?
To save some squints, I observed a TL072 opamp, LM358 opamp, and a OP275G JFET. Seems to be some tantalum caps too. Transistors labelled 1AM (MMBT3904 from my searches).
Sorry for the lack of additional details, I just had it open and wanted to check it out....
i have a boss od-2r and i am concidering moding a blend pot into it verses just buying a boss ls-2. i found this pedals sounds good with my bass but i would like a wet/dry mix.
this is the page that i am using the schematic from for the pedal, i was hoping for a little guidence on where i should try to make my connections/breaks for a blend pot if possible. i have not opened the pedal yet to see if there is any room in it for the pot, but worse case i can put it in a different box and maybe a...
Recently got a commission to convert this EQ to 1/4 jacks, new power supply caps and NE5532 upgrade to make it less noisy. I took a bunch of photos to post here for tracing if someone wants to have a go. I have one of these of my own too if I need to check any part values. MXR 10 Band EQ 01 .jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 02.jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 03.jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 04.jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 05.jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 06.jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 07.jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 08.jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 09.jpg MXR 10 Band EQ 10.jpg MXR...
Anybody have a schematic for the Digitech PDS 8000? I have one that produces no effect and the infinite loop is locked on. I will at times get a digital squeal when the effect is engaged (and the infinite loop is too obviously) until I go back to bypass.
No, the VD does not stand for venereal disease . It stands for vintage delay .
There's a Cool Audio V3205 under the hood. The clock chip is marked CD3102GP, which is NOT made by Cool Audio. Does anyone recognize the manufacturer logo on it?
Bottom side has a shit-ton of SMD, as expected.
I managed to eek out a bit more than 300ms out of it by dicking with clock trimmer. But it's a very tight range that sounds good (to me).
For the money, it's a pretty good short analog delay. The filtering...
I just received this crazy heavy beast , it's pretty rare apparantly . It's a standart snarling dogs wah combined with a ring modulator based on a LM565 , the same presented in the Anderton's book (the electronic projects for musicians). (The big metal cylinder is the inductor ) I took some pics of the guts :
(I also put a schematic from Jc mailet's site for the ring mod part)
I bought this pedal for £40 and I am impressed with how quiet it is even when I use a crap 9V supply that I know gives hum ripple. Looking at the Boss circuit my question is does this bit work or is it an error? It has a cap connecting base to ground so is the bias just the resistor? I have never seen a circuit like this.
Another curious question of mine, are claims of a BBD chip inside true? This is the cheapest 4-knob flanger I could find so I grabbed it for $10 shipped.
Inside I found an MN3207 BBD, an MN3102 Clock Generator, 2 x RC4558, and an 062C. Three trimpots all with the index mark at exactly 6:00 and 12:00, which makes me wonder if they'd been adjusted after assembly at all. I'm still playing with it before I dare adjust those.
Does anybody have the schematics of the EBS Multidrive perhaps or else some information about the signal switching?
I'm actually not so much interested in the internals workings of the drive but more the switching arrangement and input/output stages because it pops when enabling it.
The foot-switch seems not to be true bypass but a simple one pole switch. This probably implies that the switching is done electronically and that the foot-switch provides a logical 1 or 0 to the electronic...
Usually suprised at the quality of their pedals. I have their v3 ep or bp comp, black one, and it’s pretty good. I’ve attached a pic of the version before mine as the last pic. I’d have to take mine apart and haven’t felt like it. Actually the comp is first. Have no clue what the goop is covering. It’s optical. Supposed to have an EP style boost.
For component values I cannot make confirmations as all is on quick notes and some scans made over a year ago. As for the schematic I could check and re-check for possible errors. However, whatever I will do, AG will pick out a few more. Let's say I'm lazy and will just wait :lol:
I recently received a broken Danelectro Cool Cat Transparent Overdrive V2.
Since no actual schematic seems to be available I have tried to create one using Kicad.
Most capacitors are smd, were removed and measured with RLC meter.
The Cool Cat Fuzz V2 input buffer seems similar.
The FET clipping is not yet drawn properly, suggestions welcome.
>> Update rev 0.2: Cleanup input, output, value R8
>> Update rev 0.3: tone pot wiring double checked and updated after check by bmxguitarsbmx
>>...
I have one of those puppies in house Quick google scanning shows no schematic. Do we need one? I could try to do it. This one is not working, my friend left it to fix it by me (haha!).
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