Hello, I recently made a copy of it following old analogguru schematic:
but the result is really poor comparing to the original sound found on youtube...
1 thing, schematic have a square wave LFO, and clearly on records the sound is made with a triangular wave FLO. Anyone had the chance to serve one and trace it?
Regards
Benoit
PS: web archive have all the original analogguru schematics if someone is interested
I'm reposting this regarding Madbean's Harbinger 1.5 / Univibe:
I've been playing around with the various pots and trimpots and to my *imperfect* ears, in the vibrato mode, the amount the pitch is modulated is, let's say, a semitone. So, the signal warbles up and down a semitone and it seems that the Intensity knob attenuates the amount that the semitone warble is heard, but it doesn't change the amount that the pitch changes, if that makes sense. Adjusting the internal trimpots, to my ears,...
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Thought you all might enjoy this one.
The slightly earlier version of this pedal is essentially a 9v germanium FZ-1 with controls to boost the highs or lows. This version has three 2N 5172 transistors and works in the same way, but sounds quite a bit more aggressive. Not sure if this circuit is reminiscent of anything else?
The FD-3A version seems to have been made in 1967 and 1968, and this version from what I...
hello, i got some time so i'm back with the pedals and recently i got some 12ax7 and a little bit bored with silicon, i started building preamps of recognized amps, i built the preamp of a jcm800 and all good, so now i want to build the jcm900 preamp, but I have a doubt about the signal input and the behavior/function of the marked line, I hope that someone who has some experience in this can help me
I thought this might be of interest. It's a kind of modulated doubling delay.
This particular unit is quite distressed. I've traced it to help debug it.
Switching and power are not shown. It has it's own plug, and i couldn't be bothered to follow the wires around a transformer and bridge rectifier etc. There's a couple of regulators for +15V and -12V.
I'm not very experienced with this stuff, so please take it all with a grain of salt.
I posted this a long time ago, not a lot of interest. To me it was a holy grail find. You can use the Zonk Machine PCB that's floating around with a little rework. Enjoy!
I need to replace the potentiometer on a Ross Phase R1 (Purple).
The potentiometer is utterly destroyed.
There is absolutely no resistance reading between the outer pins and the CTS potentiometer is not marked for value.
It seems someone put brakefluid in the potentiometer which in turn ate up the carbon track completely.
If someone has a purple Ross Phase R1, I would really appreciate it if you could
1) just measure the resistance between the outer potentiometer pins for the two cases of...
I'm new here, and still have a lot to learn about the protocol — not to mention making stompboxes that don't short out.
But I'm wondering if there's anyone's interested in collaborating on a project to recreate and improve the Systech Harmonic Energizer — a fab distortion/filter effect that rates Hen's Tooth status in Analog Mans Guide to Vintage Effects . It's a bit like playing a cocked wah into a fuzz, but more controllable and extreme, especially on high-resonance settings....
And here is the Tycobrahe Octavia which confirms my trace and theory:
even the original Roger Mayer Octavio schemo traced by the Tyco people can be found here.
read more about the history here:
Octavia History - Truth revealed ?
here:
Octavia Evolution courtesy of Roger Mayer
and here:
Roger Mayer Octavia Octavio
and look at the:
Tycobrahe Octavia schematic
and the
Roger Mayer Octavia schematic
This is the wrong Helios schematic where all came from:...
For more info on the Roger Mayer Octavia read this:
Octavia History - Truth revealed ?
this:
Octavia Evolution courtesy of Roger Mayer
and this:
Roger Mayer Octavia Octavio
and look at the:
Tycobrahe Octavia schematic
and the
Roger Mayer Octavia schematic
This is the wrong Helios schematic where all came from:
A few years ago I posted the actual hfe of Q1-Q4 from a 1974 Rams Bead Big Muff with FS36999 transistors as measured using a Peak DCA55. They were: Q4: 163, Q3: 214, Q2: 171, Q1: 160.
Since that time I've worked on three more pre-1975 Rams Head Big muffs. Two had FS36999 trannys and one had 2N5133 trannys. Guess what...they all measured less than 200 hfe, lol. The one with 2N5133 trannys were as follows: Q4: 132, Q3: 117, Q2: 145, Q1: 128. I also noticed Kit Rae posted some of his own...
hey guys
i just built one, i tried a lot of transistors and finally got some nice sound out of it. bias voltages are ok, no ugly noises on the decay
its gated in a nice way, with a hint of octave up when i back the guitar vol pot a little....
what bothers me is on a certain combination on the guitar volume pot and the fuzz''/ bias pot in produces a kind of octave down sound which is actually very pleasant
my question is whether this is normal. i havent heard of a zonk pedal doing this
OK, I’m finally digging through my pile of vintage pedals resurrecting them from the dead. Here’s a mid 70’s EH Echoflanger. If anyone has gut shots, schematics, layouts, info, etc. to get this puppy up, that would be greatly appreciated.
New member here, and my apologies if i am starting off on the wrong foot with my first post..,.i am hoping someone can provide some advice here as to what may be wrong with an old distortion box. I have an old univox superfuzz stomp box that when plugged in no longer generates a really cool crunch sound it now generates what really sounds like static. . It has two settings but both sound similar, like a static generator. Any ideas? maybe the capacitors need replacing. Afterall it has to be at...
I have a vintage Maestro Envelope Modifier on my bench. It acts strangely and doesn't really match my expectations.
In my understanding it should retrigger the ADSR cycle as you pluck a string (seeing the vintage EHX Attack Decay and Boss Slow Gear on youtube). For example set a slow attack, long sustain and fast decay and as i hit a note the volume starts to increase than it sustains and after that quickly mutes as it reaches the decay part of the envelope.
I received this pedal recently, it was found in a garage. It's in a rather sad state, as you can see from the pictures.
It looks like the Fuzz PCB is missing but I guess I can make the Wah work on its own.
I decided to take it apart, clean it and re-wire it. Below are a few shots of the PCB.
I've labelled the connection points on the PCB and am asking for help which ones are for the IN/OUT, 9V and POT. I'm sure this will be easy for the experienced builders.
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