The research folders: please contribute whatever little piece of information you might have on stompbox circuits new or old. Discussion should be civil and to the point.
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Vintage Stompbox Corner ( ... - 1975) Discussion regarding early stompbox technology: 1960-1975 Please keep discussion focused and contribute what info you have...
Boutique Stompboxes dissected... General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
DIY Projects Original effects with schematics, layouts and instructions, freely contributed by members or found in publications. Cannot be used for commercial purposes without the consent of the owners of the copyright. Subforums:
Printed/Published Online Designs,
Original Tracer Layouts
Analysis Requests Folder Before you launch a request, please a) search the forum; b) search the web and c) share whatever you did find and where you searched.
I've recently noticed that Tim's great site at is coming up as a virus, trojan horse, or other bad things in my browser. So I thought I'd grab all the circuit images and zip them up for safe keeping. I have emailed him in the recent past, but there has been no reply. :hmmm:
Attached is a zip file of ALL of the effects circuits from his site.
Rock on, and may the creative spirit of the Great Escobedo be with you always. :thumbsup
For a long time I've felt guilty that my pedal board didn't include a compressor. Finally, after about a year of breadboarding, I have produced a circuit that can take on a Dynacomp and win , boasting:
Up to five times more headroom than a Dynacomp
Less noise than a Dynacomp
Same available sustain as a Dynacomp
Fewer parts than a Dynacomp
Cheaper than a Dynacomp
Feedforward side chain
Possibility for all five controls
Fits in 1590B
Millennium bypass
This section is devoted to circuit analysis . This means...
requests for schematics or layouts will be moved the the Request section
messages about your sick puppy or your new Android powered phone should go into the FSB Café
debugging questions will be moved to the Workbench
useless post (containing no extra information) may get deleted to preserve the readability of the thread.
you should check whether a thread exists about the unit in question, and add your info in that thread.
you...
Don't post in this forum asking is there is a schematic or layout or info on XXX pedal.
There is a subforum setup for requests already. It is located here:
REQUESTS FORUM
Any requests posted here will be moved to proper sub forum, and I'll also make nasty remarks about your mother. :mrgreen:
also, if you have a problem with your build, post it in the WORKBENCH. these threads are for circuit analysis only. by all means, if you discover something we should...
Does anyone have schematics or traces of the old Electra Guitar MPC modules? Just picked up a nice MPC guitar, and would like to attempt to make a module board, but would like to first see the thought process behind them, as the guitar uses one 150K pot to control one parameter on the effect. Pretty simple, I'd assume.
Any help would be appreciated. I'd even buy a broken or functional module to work from.
Does anyone know what Pro Co has done to the RAT to make it a FATRAT? I'm talking actual circuit and/or component changes not sound/features. If anyone has any gut shots or an actual verified/traced schematic that would be great. I'd like to update my comparative multi RAT schematic (below) to include this new RAT variation so I'm really curious as to what they've done.
Hey lovers of the deep tone,
attached you can find my attempt to trace this big tank.
It's my second attempt to trace a pedal so please be kind. I used a continuity tester and the magnifying glass app with the flashlight of my cell phone to get it done. The schematic is made with Kicad.
Unfortunately I don't have a lot of knowledge in electronics. I don't now exactly which component is part of a feedback loop and which is a high pass etc or (and) especially for this pedal which component is...
I'm back to Exar pedals tracing, I was a bit busy during the last weeks, and it took me almost a month to finish HM-02 Heavy Metal tracing. According to the pots and warranty card dates, the unit I have seems to be produced and sold in 1999.
It was challenging to trace because of a lot of wiring with resistors in heat sinks attached to them. PCB itself is single-sided and transparent in light.
This is my first time posting here... I've been trying, for the better part of a year, to obtain this pedal. It beautifully replicates the sound of the Beatles - and much better than premium and expensive alternatives like Aclam's Dr. Robert or Jext Telez's White Pedal (no dis). Hear for yourself! Unfortunately the maker has gone completely AWOL... I was able to get a few replies from him last year but he disappeared. I think he's had enough with making pedals. His website and official social...
I traced this one a few months ago and never got around to putting the schematic up here. The only thing that bothers me is how the 9v supply is hooked up to the cathode of the bypass LED. I still have the box but the owner is not willing to desolder the caps to find the values. Any way to measure them in circuit to get a rough idea of what the are? In my experience NP0/C0G caps are usually lighter in color....like a grey and the X7R caps are a darker brown so that's how I marked them on the...
Hi, I'm putting together a Troglodyte fuzz from the layout on dirtboxlayouts.blogspot and just wondered how critical the choice of NPNs are for Q1 and Q2. I've got a couple of low hfe (≈150) and just figured I'd throw them in there and see.
Hi all, this project was one that I wanted to do for a while. It's been pretty fun digging into how oil can delays work and sound. Don't Tell Ray has a front end that can get gritty and dirty, a sinusoidal LFO, modulation speeds that match the hardware, and a tone control that allows the delays to stay nice and clean or dark and mellow. I have a full rundown of how the circuit works on my page about it here: Here is the demo:
I’m planning a guitar build and trying to figure out the electronics wiring. I don’t fully understand switches, whether to us a DPDT or a 3PDT on/on/on.
Then a separate mini-toggle: up - middle pickup only (shuts neck & bridge off). Middle - uses only the 3 way blade, for just neck/bridge options. Down - middle brought in with the neck/bridge.
below some line6 M9 gutshots. I need to opened it to replace a bad LCD and took some pictures.
The M9 schematic is attached as well.
Maybe it help somebody.
I was wondering is it possible to run 2 different power supplies within the one effect pedal. With one supply being
+15V -15V from a 9VDC source through a charge pump. With the second power requirement for a second part of the circuit isolated from first part also powered from same 9VDC source, only this section powered as +9v and 0V GND with bias for op amps.??? If this is possible, I were hoping some kind people here could please advise me on how to achieve as much, even a pictorial basic...
There are several schematics that come up when you go looking for Yamaha NE-1 , and they have different ways of showing the dual pots orientation & it's a bit confusing for anyone new to these things. I wrote to Silentfly the first time I looked at this project years ago and his is a mistake in the schematic , and I think the wiring in the drawing of the pots in the Paul-in-the-lab schematic is at odds with the Freestompboxes one and possibly wrong. I know it's a simple thing to just try wiring...
Is OCD just VoodooLab rippoff ( with MOSFET's instead of Si diodes) ?
I don't know - I have not seen one - but I have read that elsewhere on another forum/s - it may be true, but then it may be lies.
If you find out for sure, please let us know :wink:
Gut shots of Rocktek's Super Delay.
All the parts are identified but I have no time to draw the schematics at the moment.
Some traces are burned (due to inadequate power supply I guess). Someone fixed that with some jumpers (two orange wires). You may also notice that the black wire for the battery snap is on the hole marked with (+) on the PCB, and the red is on (-). But that's OK, the wires are reversed at the battery snap too, so everything is wired properly....