Like the F1x, was browsing and recalled that I actually bought the schematic for the Alembic onboard dual filter preamp (older version of the series onboard electronics, I think).
I'll post it here for posterity.
Quite elaborate, these basses have two pickups and a dummy coil, which needs to be carefully adjusted. They also have a second order low pass filter per pickup, with either a switch or a pot for Q . In the old days, they used a separate outboard power supply, not sure if that is still...
Quick question; got a bass with 2 pickups. Each pickup goes to it's own active pre-amp and then to it's own output (a 5 pin output (audio left, audio right, ground, V+, V-)). Pickup > Pre Amp> volume > output.
I'm having an issue where I'm hearing the bridge when I'm plugged into the jack that should just be the neck, or vice verse. What can I do to fix that? Would a big resistor by the input or output help?
Hi, I found a cheap passive stingray bass copy and I build a simple pre amp with spare part I already own, I could have build the OG pre but I do not own a low current opamp and in my country is not easy to get reverse log pots. So I put a Tillman in the input, followed by a scaled james tonestack and a lpb1 boost as recovery, it sound pretty good for a fast and simple point to point build. Some problem, flat is not in the 50%, 50% position is more like in the 50%, 60%.
Hi folks
First thanks to pf_fan for his encouragement and pictures, and a special thanks to the nice person on the EMG forum for providing some nice hi-res pictures of an SPC and EXG circuit board.
Now to the nitty gritty :wink:
EMG produce a range of active tone controls, but the most popular configuration is that used by david gilmour in his red strat - the DG20.
The most recent version is completely solderless with push on connectors and all the componentry is hidden between the rear of the...
I've got a 5 string Stingray Piezo and now trying to replace its onboard preamp (want to swap it with Darkglass Tone Capsule - as for me, it works with more sweet frequencies). I don't need piezo and actually don't like how it sounds, so I just cut it off.
Since SR5 pickup has dummy coil, its wiring varies from traditional humbucker and proprietary ErnieBall switch with 15 pins is used in SR5s.
Just wondering if anyone has schematic of wiring such pickup with ability to switch coil...
I’m planning a guitar build and trying to figure out the electronics wiring. I don’t fully understand switches, whether to us a DPDT or a 3PDT on/on/on.
Then a separate mini-toggle: up - middle pickup only (shuts neck & bridge off). Middle - uses only the 3 way blade, for just neck/bridge options. Down - middle brought in with the neck/bridge.
But...however, I have made a copy that works fine.
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The progress of the reverse engineering will be updated again after a while...
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Here it is... I opened one up for a local shop. A guy had his painted (!!!) and the painter hacked his wiring up, shoved it into the control cavity and gave it back to him. Duh, my guitar doesn't work. So the lack of available schematics etc. made this one a little more than your average rewire. The little board on the back of the varitone pot has all the connections labeled though, so tada, here it is kinda half wiring half schematic.
right click on the image for full view:
Need help finding a proper switch sourcing info.
And clear wiring diagram.
It seems there is a need to connect to the 2 poles to have the inductor connected properly.
help!
I'm one of those guitarists who does not live without volume and tone controls, I am used to set my amp with more highs and cut this excess in the tone control, when I want my guitar more expressive I turn the tone a little way up as a result it works as a second volume control that avoids gain losses.
Strat control tone works ok, but they are effective after 5 and its a little aggressive at the begnining (3 to 0), this circuit I have implement in one of my strats in the bridge...
I recently had the pleasure of repairing the preamp on a 1977 Ovation Country Artist 1624-4. The primary complaint was that the guitar did not work when plugged in. To make a long story short, after audio probing through the circuit, I first determined the electrolytic caps were dead, followed by determination that the JFET was dead as well. After replacing the electros (C3 & C4) and tranny (didn't have a 2N5459 handy, but used a 2N5458 with great results), it sounded very nice.
I am the proud owner of what is called a cowpoke bass. This is a bit of an odd Fender bass having 22 frets and an active preamp. It has been produced in Mexico for only about two years (94/95). Some belive the preamp was designed by Mr. Kubicki as this was the time Fender had a collaboration with him. Other say it was designed by Fender themselve. This thread over at talkbass is about the best source of information for those basses.
Well, mine did show a problem with the output signal being...
Very recently, I learned that Ibanez have apparently had a preamp in their basses which had a variable filter, called Power Curve. In the 80's-90's SR series basses, apparently.
I am wondering if this is similar to what Alembic has for their filter preamps, or something else.
Does anyone know more? Does anyone have a schematic for this preamp?
Keen to learn more about this.
Hi. Wiring up my pups in series with a on/off/on switch (like vintage duosonic). Have found a toggle switch that might do the job but am noticing a symbol beside the center lug that I do not recognise.
Here's a pdf book containing three version of Ormond Sparks articles on electric guitars as published in Practical Mechanics in 1937. The article was reworked in 1943 and then republished in 1953...
So a while back I picked up an Ibanez Gio GSR200 bass off of craigslist for cheap, and though it sounded kinda like crap with everything on it stock, I got infatuated with the onboard preamp it came with, especially after opening it up and seeing that it was a relatively simple circuit. Well, I've been working on tracing it for a while, and after a good amount of trial and error, I finally built a working copy and drawn up a schematic. The circuit is compact and fits comfortably in...
I've had this bass in for nasty buzz and hum that got even worse after someone else's attempt... Wires were very thin and brittle, shielding paint was somehow inefficient. So I went rewiring it all and properly shielding it. It is dead quiet now, and plays really well. I did change some of the stock caps (on the preamp and tone control) for better quality ones (these were like the plastic transparent ones found in many Boss pedals). I do like the active preamp, it's a nice feature on this...
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