I would like to clone the EHX Electric Mistress (Same as Memory Man/ Hog/ Hot Tubes), but I cannot find any available unit in my country (Argentina) in order to get chassis' dimmensions.
Can anybody confirm that? - Case (LxWxH): 170 mm x 200 mm x 38 mm
Anyway, there's still pending the trapezoid form issue, and I would actually also need the angle of the geometric form and dimmensions too.
If you can help me with that task, I can then share CAD files with all the community...
I've done dozens of builds now, but one thing I still can't do well at all is getting rubber feet to actually stick to the bottom of my enclosures. After I paint and clear coat, I usually attach the little transparent feet that are designed as bumpers, but they always fall off. What do you guys do for feet? :scratch:
Basically you combine vinegar and salt, attach the item to be etched to the + of a 9V battery, attach a q-tip to the - pole (exposed wire wrapped tight around the cotton part), dab the cotton in your salt/vinegar mix and then paint on.
Seems like a bit neater than masking and immersing in diluted FeCl.
What I've been doing for the last year is printing out my artwork on plain paper and again on a waterslide. I use the paper printout to mark all of the holes on the enclosure, drill it, and then apply the waterslide.
The problem is that sometimes, despite my best efforts, the paper template shifts a bit and the punched holes are not perfectly aligned, or when I am applying the waterslide, the decal stretches or deforms a bit and the labels end not misaligned with the holes :(
People bake because they think it causes the paint to become more durable. I have my doubts. It seems to me like baking would only have 2 advantages. One is that only certain paint compounds will become harder with baking. Others don't, and without knowing which would benefit from baking, it's a big question mark. Second, baking cause the paint to dry faster. This is true. However in my experience, whenever i use the oven, i have run into more unpredictable problems like cracking, paint...
Hi guys. I'm starting to etch aluminum enclosures and I've seen, after extensive research, that it's a must to perfectly sand the face that will be etched.
So I've run into a few problems/questions, and as I didn't found answers elsewhere I've came here to ask you veterans. =)
1- How do you achieve a perfectly flat surface? Do you use sanding blocks, orbital sanders, etc.? How long does it takes?
2- Is wetsanding better than drysanding for aluminum enclosures? Why?
3- How do you get a...
I would like to finish a hammond aluminum enclosure with Rustoleum Hammered paint. I have been looking at pictures of hammer finished pedals and there seems to be great variation in the texture. My objective is to achieve something like this:
Not this:
Are there any specific tricks or techniques to achieve hammered style like the first (silver) photo?
I am not sure what is causing this. I drilled a 3mm pilot hole for my unibit (which starts at 4) but the unibit doesn't get much further than half a millimetre in before it catches and jumps out. I am not using a drill press, I am doing it by hand. I was told that the drill bit was suitable for aluminium but I am now worrying that it is too soft seeing as another bit manged to make 5 successful holes in the same enclosure. Am I right? What might be causing this?
Here’s the transparency I use, it’s Staedtler Lumocolor Ink Jet Film. Fifty A4 sheets are about £15 ($20 maybe). It has two sides, a rough side and a smooth side. You print onto the rough side, it’s designed to take the ink. The image you print will be a reversed image, so eventually the smooth side will be the front of the graphic.
I create my graphic in MS Publisher, using a series of construction lines to line up and measure where the pots, switches etc will be. I almost always have a...
Hi,
Does someone know where I could find a PT909-style aluminium enclosure (nude one of course), I mean this kind of box with the sloping shape and the recess for the controls : (please? :) )
I can't find out If it is at least possible to grab some.
Thanks!
Greetings everyone and anyone !
I was considering a clear polyycarbonate, (LEXAN) enclosure for a circuit, but was warned of grounding problems and RF interference.
Does anyone have more insight on this and insight on possible remedies.
The idea is to see the circuitry. I'd like to avoid lining the interior with metal tape.
Thanks to anyone and everyone that responds to my question !
I've read a few tutorials. It's described as very similar to the toner transfer trick to put an etching mask onto a copper clad board. Except it just doesn't work.
Here's what I've tried:
At first I was using this semi-gloss Kodak photo paper that I had laying around from a few years ago. I sanded down the enclosure with 220 grit sandpaper.
My sanding technique is to go across the enclosure at a 45 degree angle one way, then do it the opposite...
Has anyone tried using a variant of etching in order to achieve white paint on dark paint? My idea is to etch a peddal such that the recessed areas would be where you want your text. You would etch it, the paint it the background color. Then spray a layer of white paint over the dark color. The white should theoretically get into the etched areas. You could then sand off the raised areas that have white on it to expose the black paint below. Have any of you tried that technique? Does that...
Does anyone have any recommendations for a small drill press for drilling enclosure holes for sockets, switches etc (preferably available in the UK) that doesn't need to be bolted or fixed to a floor or bench? I don't have a dedicated workshop and would like to be able to remove the drill for storage when not in use without having to unbolt it.
Like on the OCD and Clyde wahs - does anyone know where one could obtain these little plastic covers? As a bit of a project, I'm upgrading my Clyde Deluxe v1 to v2 specs - and I'd like the indicator LED to be part of that.
I just modded my CryBaby and would like to make some pots externally accessible. I've got just a mediocre 14V Black and Decker power hand drill, so I anticipate purchasing a new tool to use for this (can't imagine that hand drill is going to be ideal for this for a few reasons).
The question is, if you were going to buy a new tool for drilling into enclosures, what would be your pick? I imagine a drill press would be best, but ideally something smaller than that.
I used 'Aristocrat Liquid Glass' coating on my Box of Rock and Landgraff clone pedal.
I sprayed the yellow color lacquer, let it dry, applied water slide decal. Then Liquid Glass.
It needs little bit of practice, but it's fairly easy to do. These were my first attempt on Liquid Glass.
It is super hard and strong coating method that I've ever used.
I'm building a GGG P90 kit and I'm trying to figure out what paints to get. I'm not doing a straight-up clone visibly but I would like to get the correct orange that MXR uses. Any of you have an idea which orange they use?
Does anyone know the radius of the chamfers on the 125B? Better yet, does anyone have a link to the drawings of 125B's kindof like how Hammond has drawings of 1590's?
Right now I am living in Northern Nevada (About 60 miles east of Lake Tahoe).
I moved back here in October.
Since I moved here, the temperature has not gotten above 40F (4.44 Celsius), except one day last week we got up to around 50F.
Right now, 11pm, its about 20F.
Temps are averaging around 20F - 30F throughout the day, dropping to single digits at night.
Humidity is currently around 60%. Humidity is usually VERY low during the summer months.
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