got this cheap in junk condition (which means something is defective). Seems to work and produce sound but having no point of ref. have no idea if it's healthy or not. Anyway, thought I'd disassemble to take some guts pics. Hope these are enough (for anyone wanting to make a schematic, etc.). I did bend over some of the parts so the values could be read(photographed), so I hope these are enough, but if anyone REALLY wants I'll take it apart again to take some more pics. (Too redundant, etc....
Fuzz / Distortion pedal. It's my own design (with some distinct influences!) Not sure if this is where to post but wondering if anyone wants to take a crack at pulling it apart :)
Please excuse my english!, i'm writing from chile!
i'm starting this topic since it wasn't created yet!...searching at google found this pics!
I would like to know how the add ons of this pedal are made... as everybody knows its a refined tubescreamer with active tonestack... but in the simple version there is only bass and treble so here is the first question...
how we can add to the simple bb schematic a mid control?, it necessary must be an active circuit?
Just got one of these in trade. I haven't plugged it in yet so I don't know how it sounds, but it looks pretty simple inside. Anyone know how I could gently heat up the hot glue to remove the backing and take pics of the trace side? If anyone needs specific values, then let me know. I couldn't read the transistor thats sandwiched in between the caps, but it may be because of the poor lighting right now. Will look later. Don't have any more time at the moment. Don't forget to take notice of the...
I've got about 80% of this traced out. No big surprises so far, other than the use of a Vactrol for the speed control (
There is a switchable jfet input stage (modern/classic). The preamp and output stages are pretty typical except for a few value changes. Q1 is 2N5088, and most every other transistor is C945. The phase stages are standard, but I haven't gotten to the last stage or the speed control yet. There is also a charge pump. Haven't seen any regulator on the board, so the biasing...
Here are some pictures of my KR Musical Mega Vibe.
This is straight from the Uni-Vibe schematic with no mods.
The reason I looked inside the pedal in the first place was because as I would turn up the speed knob I noticed the sound of the vibe would thin out and I wanted to know why.
I figured out exactly why but won't post the exact reason for many reasons.
The wiring and board appears to be a sloppy mess to me.
This post is going to read like a paid review in a glossy guitar mag, but this pedal, and everything McSpunckle does impresses me. I got to try a few pedals in a tourbox and first off the bat is the And Aardvarks! boost/OD. Simple, nice sounds, incredible build. And he posted the schematic at Ilovefuzz.com :D
So this is more a for posterity post :)
Link to schems and discussion:
Also worth mentioning that the finish on all of his pedals is the best/coolest I've seen. He has a description of...
Gut shots yoinked from
- worth checking out the description of the pedal there as well - with 11 knobs and a bunch of switches there's a lot going on. If I remember correctly it is an optioned up Brassmaster/Muff thing. It's possible to get horrible sounds, awesome sounds, normal sounds, whacked out sounds, gated, sustainy... everything. And it's surprisingly easy to dial in once everything makes sense. The wiring on the pedal I got to test was at least as clean as...
a preamp boost using a germanium transistor .It seems to be a variant of the chandler germanium preamp for guitars . It's seems to be original (talking about feedback path in the circuit ) at least we can hope for not another Rangemaster clone.
Hey Guys.
I'm building a 1776 effects PCB Buzz Saw which is pretty true to the original Bee Baa, save the boost. I heard a clip of the Black Cat and really liked the tweaks. Anyone familiar with them?
Here's layout for D*A*M - FUZZ rong FR-69 .
Pot values are not confirmed :hmmm: - especially 'Depth', but 250K should do the job. 100K or 500K should work fine, too.
If anybody can confirm exact value that would be great.
OK, here's a long distance trace from photos only. A friend borrowed one of these and sent some pics and confirmed values for me. the schematic isn't pretty, but I'm sure it's accurate.
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