Forum dedicated to helping people debug and troubleshoot non-functional pedals or builds. Please use an clear and informative title, indicating circuit and basic problem. Don't forget to mark the issue as fixed if this is the case.
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Debugging 101 General rules and hints to succesfuly bring back that old pedal to life
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Got this in for repair. Main complaint: The Howling Adjust control doesn't do anything, whether with the fuzz, the wah or both engaged.
Very cool pedal - nice smooth wah, and a really nice octave-fuzz. The tone control blends in the octave very nicely. Even better, the fuzz and wah work really well together. But turning the Howling Adjust control has no effect.
I have uploaded the schematic (it is inside the bottom plate). Clearly a shortened Super-Fuzz like effect. The Howling control is the...
Hey - I have built these before, but it has been awhile. Got it all together and it sounds great, except when the Depth control goes past the 2 o'clock position it starts to thump, getting quite dramatic as the depth increases.
Voltages seem perfect - 9.2v in all the A voltage spots, and 4.6v at all the B voltage spots. Tried different chips, even a TL022 in place of the 062 with no change at all.
Checked for solder bridges and correct parts. Even moved the wires away from the 022 chip....
I bought this PCB years ago, but I don't remember what it was for. Anybody recognize it? I'm guessing it was probably a fuzz circuit? Thanks for looking!
Hi,
Just got one of these Gibson Maestro W3 boxes. It's working when let on for a half hour /45mins but needs some recapping etc. for any reliability but nice fuzz/octave - ok tremolo.
Works best with a slight boost pedal going in (with guitar) as these were to be used with woodwind mics at hi impedance.
Many Thanks in advance.
Satch
Power supply is good
Opamps fine.
No oscillations from the 4047, so I replaced it and have a strong oscillator signal at pin 13, but none at pins 10 and 11 which drive the SAD1024 chips.
I pulled all three of the delay chips, but still nothing from 10 and 11, there should be a clock there, right?
W20K is recommended for the tone pot, but I didn't have it in stock, so I made it with B25K.
I know that it is used as a replacement for the W20K in many TS pedals, and I also have a few TS pedals made with the B25K.
However, make my GT-OD with B25K, the tone was too dark when the tone pot was set to 12 o'clock.
I looked for other errors, but there were no special problems, so I purchased a W20K and replaced it.
Anybody have any information or a schematic of the power circuit of this pedal? The negative side is not being created properly. I'm getting .89V being fed into the voltage regulator, when I'm guessing it would be around -24V. I have removed various capacitors to see if I can narrow down the issue. The right side of the inductor is short to ground which I assume is normal. The LM2574 has been replaced. At one point I had R104 removed and the inductor. When plugged in, the voltage was only .89V,...
I got said pedal in not working condition for a good price.
Signal doesn't go through in standby or on mode. I found the input op amp was not letting the signal through so I exchanged it. But still no sound.
A schematic would be very helpful. I guess since it's all digital any soundblox pro schematic would be sufficient.
Boss GT-100 that has choked op-amps. The audio input op-amp is supposed to run on +/-12V. It's receiving upwards of +/-14V. If I put my finger on the pin to soak up a little bit of voltage, the audio starts to crackle through. The snapshot shows the +-14V line coming into the 2 transistors, but I'm high on the output side of them. What could be keeping the transistors from reducing the output voltage down to the required 12V?
Thought I'd pick up one of these to see what it's like.
I was hoping I'd be lucky and it would be a take on the Moen Shaky Jimi/Jimi Nova, which are based on the EasyVibe.
Here's links to the Moen Shaky Jimi and Moen Jimi Nova threads.
And I'd like to thank John Hollis for his lovely EasyVibe circuit. :thumbsup
What's inside then? The highlights:
1 x ST 064C
3 x TI TL062C
4 x LED/LDR pairs
It does indeed look to be generally based on the Moen/EasyVibe circuit although I haven't checked the...
Hi everybody !
I have a Danelectro Cool Cat Vibe with a problem :
it worked great for a few years, but suddently, the speed knob is acting strange : It's like if the speed is now a lot more fast than before. At minimum it's the same speed at, say in the middle when it worked normally, and then goes really fast, so fast that when I reach the middle of the pot travel, the speed is so fast that you can't hear any modulation.
I built a few kits and stripboard, but I consider myself still a newb...
Hi there, I need a little help to check if my test station noise is at a normal level, taking into account the exposed wires - ill leave photos here. The thing is that there is always a little noise just with my guitar going through a switch and the effect send / return wires. Even with the switch bypass theres some noise.
The audio connection is input jack to dpdt toggle switch and then it either goes through the send / return wires or goes to output jack. The ground connections are a wire...
Good morning everyone, I would like to ask for help regarding the chain of effects that I would like to use for my setup.
For obvious reasons, I need to have the Treble Booster on a dedicated line and the rest of the effects on the other.
To do this I built the Passive A B Y box and the micro mixer by General Guitar Gadget.
All good, except for the fact that the sound becomes incredibly trebly.
Initially I had thought of adding a dual buffer to the A B Y box but it would have created problems...
I have recently found in my collection of pedals, one of them.
The problem is that when I step on the pedal to turn it on, the sound is faded. It sounds like the effect is only kicking in very little. If I keep my foot down on the pedal, the sound Is perfect. I believe something is wrong in the switching circuit. I've tried looking for a schematic but haven't had any luck. Any insight would be helpful.
I'm using a Voodoo Labs ISO 5 power supply...
Hi i'm needing some help with this.
I bought an MZ-2 on reverb with the mode knob not working properly.
The MZ-2 is an analog pcb which is the drive circuit sandwiched to a digital pcb which is the chorus/doubler circuit.
The issue being the Mode knob stays in drive mode no matter where i set it. I poked every solder joint with a chopstick and could barely get a whisper of the chorus/doubler signal. I even flowed some solder to the obvious connections to the mode knob and checked the...
Hey Guys, new to the Board, been searching for a few days on how to hook up this Foxrox mod on this Wah Pedal. Foxrox has no info on this pedal. I emailed them but never got a response. The Mod has a Red, Black ( 9v power) and a White ( input) and Blue ( Output).
I have been playing around with it today, I took the Blue wire off the wah Pot, and connected white lead from the mod, to the pot, and connected to the Blue wire back to the blue wire. And connected the power.
Hi, can anyone share what C16 on the older Keeley Compressor Tantalum value is please. Is it 1uf? I have an older gifted unit with a burned out Tantalum. Also will this pedal run on 12V?
Hi, yesterday I've found the R.G. Keen layout, and I gave it a shot. Basically it works: rate and speed knob does works, switch does work, ldr/led does work, I got output signal with vibrato but, the output is completely distorted (like a fuzz, but in a bad unusable way).
I tried a lot of IC (all get from Mouser) but nothing has changed.
I took readings of the ICs and they are numbered from left to right if you have the layout (I think I can't post it here) on hand.
Where there are 2 values...
I also think that a defective/failed output cap can be the culprit, so the first thing i would do would be to substitute that 1uF electro (C20 on the PCB, if i'm not wrong).
I have here a original Throttle Box that is unbelievable noisy.
The noise reminds me in rain pelting in the wind.
(Sorry for the bad explanation, English is not my native language.)
I t seems like the previous owner (he sold it as broken) worked on it...at least the power jack had been replaced (but I do not see any other trace of soldering).
With the schematics from here, I was already able to nearly track the issue.
Tested with a shorted input (Neutrik silent cable), it seems...
I bought a broken RV-5 because I thought I could repair it. First thing I noticed is that somebody tried to replace the D1 with another non SMD diode, but I quickly replaced it with the original part. By then, I had noticed the IC6 S8520E33 was hot, so I did the 3v3 stabilization mods, except that I used a LD1117V33 with a TO 220 package (I checked and it seems to be the same as the other one; I couldn't find the SOT 223 package anywhere where I live). I soldered the 1117 with little wires...
Guys, help me,
I got this pedal dismounted who knows why, i did that long ago.
I remember to like this effect, so i want it to try it one more time.
The pcb board is ok but there is no 3dpt switch connected to the main board, i now have this six pins which i have no idea how to connect. I just want it to hear it again and if i likex it, i will buy a new 3dpt switch and install it.
IMG_0953.jpeg
As you can see i have already tried to make it work and understand how the six pins are connected...
I recently got an old V2 EHX Small stone in that didn't work. In the end I traced the problem to a non functioning EH1048 IC in the LFO section. I replaced that IC with a socket.
- With a spare EH1048 I got from another pedal I get a fine working EHX Small Stone
- With a CA3094 I don't get any working sounds
In all the schematics and information online I can find that everybody mentions that the EH1048 is a rebranded CA3094.
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