Forum dedicated to helping people debug and troubleshoot non-functional pedals or builds. Please use an clear and informative title, indicating circuit and basic problem. Don't forget to mark the issue as fixed if this is the case.
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Debugging 101 General rules and hints to succesfuly bring back that old pedal to life
Hi everybody, new to the forum here!
Sorry for my English, I’m Spanish.
I have built a Sola Sound Tone Bender Mk 1 ( I attach the layout I followed and some picks of the circuit) and I need some help with something that is going wrong:
I've been trying a lot of combinations of transistors with Ac128, russians... and I always get the same result:
When I use the pedal with my guitar volume from 0-8 it sounds good (or at least I think so...) but when guitar volume is on 10 it sounds crap,...
I added an input buffer, and I'm going to use it as the first stage in a larger circuit. I attached a partial schematic showing the Squeezer portion - guitar input is to the left (into R1), output into an output buffer (starts at C30, lower right).
Here's my problem: the coupling cap C4 at the output of the 2nd op amp is swinging about -3v on the negative lead. Positive lead is ~4.5v as expected. No...
I bought a broken RV-5 because I thought I could repair it. First thing I noticed is that somebody tried to replace the D1 with another non SMD diode, but I quickly replaced it with the original part. By then, I had noticed the IC6 S8520E33 was hot, so I did the 3v3 stabilization mods, except that I used a LD1117V33 with a TO 220 package (I checked and it seems to be the same as the other one; I couldn't find the SOT 223 package anywhere where I live). I soldered the 1117 with little wires...
I have recently found in my collection of pedals, one of them.
The problem is that when I step on the pedal to turn it on, the sound is faded. It sounds like the effect is only kicking in very little. If I keep my foot down on the pedal, the sound Is perfect. I believe something is wrong in the switching circuit. I've tried looking for a schematic but haven't had any luck. Any insight would be helpful.
I'm using a Voodoo Labs ISO 5 power supply...
The pedal works perfectly in 8 second mode. However, when I switch to 2 or 1/2, the effect doesn't work. When it kicks in, it basically doubles the signal overtop of the input, i.e. Just makes the sound a little warmer. There are no trails, echos, or repeats. The delay controls don't seem to change anything. The controls all work perfectly in 8 second mode however. I've recapped and swapped ICs. I get the voltages on the 4066 when sliding the selector switch. Interestingly, if I jump pins 3&4...
W20K is recommended for the tone pot, but I didn't have it in stock, so I made it with B25K.
I know that it is used as a replacement for the W20K in many TS pedals, and I also have a few TS pedals made with the B25K.
However, make my GT-OD with B25K, the tone was too dark when the tone pot was set to 12 o'clock.
I looked for other errors, but there were no special problems, so I purchased a W20K and replaced it.
I finally like to post a project I'm running a couple of months now.
I took a try on this one from april on...
It’s the BAJA Hiwatt DR103 amplifier pedal 9v 120318 from Bajaman.
Here’s the original documentation topic:
I got it on breadboard with some superficial modifications. Here's the actual schematic (including already some attempts of problem solving, see below).
HiWatt_Schematic_disfunctional.pdf
All in all it's working very fine, overall hiss are very low, no oscillations and...
Having a problem I cant solve and I'm not sure what the issue is. Basically I have small tube amp and i'm trying to add a buffered rangemaster circuit to it. To get 9V for the circuit, I tapped off one of the preamp tube supply nodes which sits at 130V. I put that into a voltage divider (R14 and R15) to drop it to 23V, and then put that into a LM7809 ic to provide a regulated 9V. The problem is with that last part, the LM7809.
- with the 7809 installed I get 130V in to the board but...
Got my Mosky Silver Horse yesterday. Tried using it and after a day this is what mine does.
Can’t return it coz I sourced it from AliExpress via another country. My mom in law carried it for me. I’ve raised a dispute with AE and written to Mosky as well. No luck so far. Trying some DIY repair if possible.
Any tips on how I should go about this ?
Any checks I can do to figure out what component is causing this ?
Was anybody successful building a JJ Rocket Boing clone using pedalPCB sproing PCB? I reflowed all my solders, checked for bridges, switched my IC for different kind of opamps without success.
The output gain is way below unity. When plugging a guitar, I get no signal at all (or so low that I can't amplify enough to distinguish it from the static noise).
With an audio probe, I notice that the signal out of the first opamp (pins 1-2 or IC2.1) in the schematic at is already way below unity. Would...
im having troubles to find what is going wrong with a Truetone Liquid Chorus and Echo Version 1. It was not turning on in the first place but i found a shorted cap close to the DC input, then i could turn on the pedal but it was acting like a bypass even though the leds indicate that either echo or chorus are ON. I found wrong voltages on the 2x 4558 op amp, i replaced them by 2 tl072 and recovered the right voltage on only one of them 4,5V on pin 123 and 567. The other one show...
I'm moving my post which was initially on the MXR MicroChorus dedicated thread ( here, since it seems to be the proper location for that!
So, long story short:
the MXR MicroChorus uses a SAD512 BBD chip which is hardly sourceable.
Fender3D provided on page 5 a complete rebuild schematic and a PCB in order to use a MN3007 chip instead
Since the original schematic and the updated one are quite close, I just made a small additional board
Thought I'd pick up one of these to see what it's like.
I was hoping I'd be lucky and it would be a take on the Moen Shaky Jimi/Jimi Nova, which are based on the EasyVibe.
Here's links to the Moen Shaky Jimi and Moen Jimi Nova threads.
And I'd like to thank John Hollis for his lovely EasyVibe circuit. :thumbsup
What's inside then? The highlights:
1 x ST 064C
3 x TI TL062C
4 x LED/LDR pairs
It does indeed look to be generally based on the Moen/EasyVibe circuit although I haven't checked the...
I have an old Type P210 tc scf. The gain pot went open and I had to tear it apart to clean and lube the pot. All that done, I did some scoping and measuring and found that it's putting a DC offset at the outputs. The offset starts at 7V (roughly half of 15V) and decreases very slowly. I replaced the most obvious cap and that didn't help. Even when unplugged with a shorted input, it takes about an hour to get back to 0.0V.
The schematics are difficult to read, however, it appears that the...
Hello,
I want to revive my Big Jam SE-5 flanger pedal. It uses the SAD512d (8-pin chip, different from the original SAD512) delay line, and it appears that's the component that's gone faulty in my unit. It seems these chips are commonly failing now, and unfortunately appear to be rare and expensive when they do work.
I've seen that the R5106 was a drop-in replacement chip back in the day, but even those are scarce now.
But I've also heard that the RD5106ANP should work (though the datasheets...
Hi guys, i have here a musikding Engineering thumbs Compressor kit that is not working!
Schematic:
Guts Shot
Since i’m not the one who mounted the kit, i checked every component polarity etc. resolder a bunch of holes, and identified a wrong transistor in the circuit. It was with a BC337 instead of a BC327.
I changed the transistor, but its somehing else wrong.
I have bypass sound. When its on, seems like there’s no effect applied. Level pot its working , the other ones i can’t notice...
I built the Aion P2 (Cygnus) it sounds very good but it is extremely noisy when the volume and sustain control are high (no hum but white noise hiss).
I have already tried several transistors and double checked the wiring and soldering.
Is it normal for the P2 to be so noisy?
Hey,
Just completed a 'Hundo' TA-100 clone on a board from Effects Layouts; using 1N34As and MP42B pnps with HFe tested around 80.
It sounds great *IF* I touch the case of Q2, otherwise it sounds quiet, farty and terrible. It isn't an intermittent issue, just works if I touch it. The other issue was the volume did not work unless I grounded pin 1. I reflowed the Q2 and vol pads but the issues persist.
I just picked up this awesome stand alone reverb unit but it doesn’t really work. I’m hoping you guys can help out, might be of interest to somebody.
The unit passes dry guitar just fine, sounds fantastic in fact. I can only get a very weak wet output with the Gain, Blend, and Tone maxed out and hitting the input hard. Hoping for and easy fix I replaced Q5 & Q6 since I heard those two can go bad but there’s no change in operation. I also added C9 since it looked like it had been removed and...
I wanted to be able to use the power plug instead of the battery, but the power jack wasn't working. These have a plug style that looks like a headphone plug. I opened it up, made some very minor changes to the power wiring and now that power jack works.
Fast forward a few months and one day my PDS 1700 makes no sound. I try battery power, and plug power, and I desperately try and remember exactly what I changed with the wiring. I don't remember what I did. I have...
unfortunately i have a problem with my aion oceanid build. I built the pedal exactly as described in the documentation except for two capacitors C7 + C18. I substituted these with “Styroflex” capacitors of the same value. (This shouldn`t make any difference?).
The pedal works as it should except for there is amplification with all knobs on zero (so the signal is louder when the pedal is turned on). As far as I can tell all the other functions are working therefore there is an increase...
Unfortunately the Empire Big Joe Stompbox of the guitarist from our band is broken.
He took this pedal over from another musician years ago in good condition, so I suspect no guarantee and since we come from the Netherlands, having it repaired will be an expensive affair.
I have some experience in electronics, and can handle smd components.
I made a video of the problem, would you like to view this? Perhaps you can explain what is wrong with the device and give advice how...
Symptoms are that the LFO is not oscillating, so the right-hand LED is not flashing - it's on solidly.
Here's the schematic for reference:
I'm not seeing the triangle or sine wave forms on the output of op-amp IC-4b, instead I measure 14v DC. I've removed the chip and put a socket in so I can test alternate chips. Even without the chip in place I see 8v on pin 7, dropping to 2.8V when I adjust the vibrato rate control.
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