Forum dedicated to helping people debug and troubleshoot non-functional pedals or builds. Please use an clear and informative title, indicating circuit and basic problem. Don't forget to mark the issue as fixed if this is the case.
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Debugging 101 General rules and hints to succesfuly bring back that old pedal to life
I got asked to check that old smelly mxr m117. Apparently it's regen (feedback/resonance) knob is not working properly and does not provide as much change as you can see on this video:
1st I've wiped all rosin with a solvent
then, I've checked the pcb for any cold solder joints with my dmm
checked all resistors and pots (all intact)
still not sure about caps, at least no shorts
BBD clock is okay (I've checked it with my scope, just in case)
I've been trying to figure out if this pedal is working correctly, but it doesn't sound like the demos I've watched.
The boost is fine, but both fuzz modes are much lower in volume and really, really splatty....broken up.
Using the schematic I found here, there's a nice clean sine wave at the base of Q12, the collector output is flat like with humps at frequency and the emitter output is a flat line with negative points.
Out of the diff pair of Q14 and Q13 is a flat line with the humps...
I'm a little bit new to pedals but not new to electronic diy by a long shot.
Recently built a Clari(not) clone. Most of what i could find online about the optocoupler was on the level of try a 1M LDR and recommendations to use a white or a red LED. Actually, a lot of people saying red works best.
So that's what i did. 1M LDR from some rando vendor and a very bright (16,000mcd I think) red LED. It works but the tracking control is pretty subtle. It's disappointing. So i dug a bit deeper, and...
Hi, I've been working on fixing up this Trace Elliot Commando bass amp I accidentally burnt up. I replaced a resistor but I'm pretty sure that the transformer is blown from (improper) testing I did a long time ago... no power to on switch anymore. Probably the transformer as I remember seeing sparks on it :roll:
I've found schematics here ( but they don't list the transformer.
It is marked
75 TRAN
B65 115V
NOV 2000
Any idea what I should seek to replace this with?
Hi all,
This is my first post so i apologize if it's too lengthy.
I picked up an old echoflanger that and I'm struggling to get it going. It was pretty hacked up when i got it with all of the wires missing, one of the opamps was removed, transformer was removed and an attempt to power it with an external power supply, some of the original trimpots were replaced and just a bunch of bad solders. I've finally managed to get it to power up and now can get a dry signal out of it. So far I've gone...
Recently the flip-flop circuit on my Ibanez CS9 quit flipping and flopping. I tried the obvious things first, thinking maybe it was just stuck in bypass mode but nothing really helped. So rather than hunting down the problem in the flip/flip circuit I figured I would just mod it for true bypass. After looking at the schematic I figured it would be simple enough. Here is what I did.
1. removed Q105 and jumpered Drain to Source.
2. wired in a 3pdt switch, just like I have done 1,000...
i don't actually mind that it can go into self-oscillation when the repeats knob is turned full clockwise. I'm good with that. I just wonder why? Since reputedly this design is one that won't oscillate.
Background:
I bought a wrecked DD1. Foot switch broken off, stuff burned off the board near the DC jack, 9v clip torn out.
Replaced the switch, replaced the smt protection diode with an axial diode, replaced the smt 5v regulator with a 78L05. Yeah, that stuff is just tacked to the board....
I have an Ibanez TS-10 Tubescreamer which powers up and works in bypass mode only.
When I engage the effect, there is no sound.
I've checked the input and output jacks and the circuitboard for any obvious issues but didn't see anything out of place.
I've signal traced the circuit and found that there may be a problem with Q8, the switching transistor.
I swapped out Q8 with another 2SK118 and the problem still persists.
I've checked the gate diode and resistors and 0.047uf cap but they all are...
I'm trying to make a speaker cranker. I have sound and everything seems to be working, the only problem I have is whenever I turn the more knob it makes a whoosh-ish sound. I've been searching every forum and article I can find and the best I can guess is something is leaking DC current into the pot(?) I've measured voltage across the pot with a multimeter and it appears to have about 0.3v with minor fluctuation across pins 1 and 3 while turning.
My trusted Boss DM-3 died on me. No more echo audible. I audioprobed the unit, but I cannot any affected (wet) signal appearing from the BBD stage.
It has the MN3102 and MN3205. When I audioprobe the lugs, I cannot hear any ticking sound; it should, right? Did hear a squeal, on a lug, I guess that's the clock noise.
BBD's remain a bit of a mystery to me. Any pointers in debugging those without an oscilloscope?
So, I've built 2 Colorsound Power Boost clones, 18v versions. The first one was built using a layout that was taken directly from Eagle and the second pedal was built using a direct 1 to 1 trace of an original PCB.
The second pedal performs just as the first, the same volume boost even when on minimum, breaking into a nice fuzzy overdrive at around 75% which is way too loud but fun anyway (I think i might seriously consider a master volume). I have 2 problems on both pedals which I'll detail...
I've been away from this forum for a while, so please forgive me if this is the wrong place to post. (cross posted too... sorry)
Anyway, I've got this pedal and when I first power it up, and turn it on, the light comes on (and passes sound) but then goes out after about 3 seconds, and no longer passes sound. I'm guessing that it's a capacitor in the power section, but wanted to get other opinions. I got this from eBay and was told it worked, but there was a short in the AC adapter connector......
This pedal was made for me and I love the sound. It's just a bit too loud. I'd like to reduce the output 3-4 db. I am dumber than a second coat of paint when it comes to understanding circuits and the like. I'm wondering if there is anyone who can look at the pic and give me an idea of what resistor needs to be changed?
Thanks.
Hi, i have a friend who has asked me to do a certain mod to this and basically he asking to get more drive out of the circuit.
Apparently theres an internal trimmer but he wants a bit more out of it. Anyone of you badasses know how to do this?
I got myself a Morley Power-Wah-Volume and it makes a very noticeable switch/popping noise. As anyone an idea what this might cause?
It uses a mechanical switch to go between Volume and Wah, at least that´s what the schematic suggests...
i have this problem on my boston digital delay pedal..its a pedal made from china and bought it online its second hand..
the problem of this pedal when i plugged it on a 9volt power it creates a noise like sort of humming its not actually humming its like tshhhshhhh .. like that.. its along when the effect is on ..
this is the weird part.. when i plugged the pedal to 5volts only the noise lessen out but the effect still there...when i run it to low like 3volts only...
I'm new round here and to pedal building in general, I've only just successfully completed my first build with the aim of learning a bit more about how these things tick and more specifically to try and figure out how to fix a pedal I bought a number of years ago, it's called the Zonkin Yellow Screamer mk 2 and is based on BYOC's OD2...
The pedal was sitting round for a long time without any use and I decided to give her a blast, normally I just use batteries however I was all out, so...
Help needed gents. I built this version (see vero layout) and it's doing the job tone, eq wise but the gain seems to be suffering quite a bit. Could anyone make a suggestion how to add another gain stage before the output.....or maybe change a pot value etc to get a stronger signal at output? I am using it to control the bass and treble response on a subwoofer cabinet I have been restoring. I am using the sub to enhance tv viewing for my wife who is darn near deaf. So, it's a audio tv signal...
I recently breadboarded a clone of an MXR Distortion+, using the schematic attached. I made few modification, basically because I didn't have the exact components/values. Here's the main differences between the schematic and my build:
- LM741 -> I used a TL071
- 4.7K resistor before the 1M gain pot -> I used a 5K
- 1uF tantalum capacitor -> I used a 1uF electrolytic 50V
- clipping diodes -> I used a couple of red LEDs
As far as the rest of the components, I followed the schematic. I...
I just picked up a used Echo Park as a spare/backup, but there is some nasty clipping happening, plus an unusual amount of hiss and windy noise. Something is very wrong!
It works fine in bypass mode, so I swapped the Tonecore Echo Park module from my other pedal. No change, so this tells me the issue is with the dock -- not the module.
I also flipped the internal dip switches that affect gain, and reduced the input using my amp effect loop's Send control but the fuzzy clipping was still...
Hi all, I've built a couple of KOTs from Sabro's perf layout and the first two were/are fantastic, I'm just finished my 3rd and I have a POP that I just can't fix. I've tried everything I can think of; additional resistors from output to ground, swapped out a bunch of the electrolytics etc... but nothing is working. I get some pop on both 3pdts but it's really pronounced on one, also the switches seems to be what I'd call 'microphonic' meaning that if I push them down partially I can hear the...
I build the pedal in attachment. It works OK... but not great.
I breadboarded the circuit, then I used the breadboard components in the actual build.
The pedal has a sag on note attack compared to the breadboard, a bit like a swell pedal.
The actual sound (say on the sustained part) is the same as on the breadboard.
Overall, the sustain is a bit shorter than on the breadboard though.
Collector voltage of the Darlington is 1.225V in the pedal and also on the breadboard.
I am new to the pedal building world. After messing around with some guitar rewiring I decided to pick up this lovely hobby. I've been reading around alot, and started building my first pedal (a veroboard Analogman 108BC Sun Face).
While waiting for some parts to arrive I decided to get some practise in by doing a simple mod. I decided on the diode switch for big muff circuit. To keep it simple, I only modded the first clipping stage for now.
Hi everyone
I´m trying to repair a 4 band equalizer from my nylon guitar and cant recognize the component that shows in the attachement.
Any idea?
Thanks in advance
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