Hello everyone,
I have a Guyatone Multi Octaver PS-009 stompbox that stopped working all of a sudden: only dry signals comes out.
The pedal led ligths up regularly when pressing the footswitch, but no wet signal can be heard. Rotating pots has no effect.

I must admin i don't have a deep electronic knowledge, but for what i can see, no component is visibly damaged.

Does any of you has aver had this issue.

I attach pics of the pedal and board.
2022-11-16 09.16.58.jpg
2022-11-16 09.17.25.jpg...

20221113_172725.jpg

I have narrowed down the issue to the two P-Channel Jfets Q1 & Q2.
These are PMBFJ175.

These serve as a switch to provide quiet pop free switching but mine has developed a huge pop when switching. Plus there is an issue of the gain being higher than normal when the effect is turned on which is introducing a bunch of hiss.

Heat seemed to affect the problem but not fix it, at first I thought it was a damaged trace but its these. Getting replacement for these is proving...

Hi all,

I picked up a faulty EBS Octabass pedal. It works, but when you are not playing, there are constant blips/bops. Essentially, if you even touch a string, you get some signal being generated. Sounds as if the issue I have is very similar to the one described in

I've done a fair amount of reading, and recall somewhere that it could be a pull down resistor (which seems logical to me). Is there an easy way to find which resistor it is from a schematic (the schematic is on the forum)?...

I was wondering if anyone could help me diagnose my issue with the Tonebender MKI that I'm building. I am able to get sound through the bypass with the pedal off but there is no sound the the pedal on. I made an audio probe and the sound cuts out at the emitter to Q1. I am using 2N404 Germanium transistors and have tried a couple to no avail. Any insight would be much appreciated, this is only my second build and my first on vero.

Link to schematic:

Photos of build.:

Hello all!
I've finished a DOD 280 compressor clone using this layout: .
I tried a couple of VTLs and LED+LDR combinations and I like almost all due to their different flavors :D
After that, I tried to use a 1.5V/50mA light bulb with a LDR, but it didn't work: the light bulb didn't light at all (but it's working - I've tested before and after).
Maybe the current it's too low for it? I used 2n4401 transistors and LM358.

Maybe I need to use a higher voltage? Looking at the schematic, it's...

Unfortunately I had to change the ics of this pedal and I ruined tracks.

Does anyone have a way to give me a scheme or layout for this version that I can't find anywhere?

Hi, this is my first post here, so apologies if I put this in the wrong subforum. I've recently been getting into modding pedals and I've successfully learned how to alter Boss pedals to always power up off (it's always been an annoyance of mine; if I want it on, I'll turn it on myself). I have an old DOD Grunge pedal (the original butt/face enclosure, the board is rev B) and looking at the schematics for it and some other DOD pedals of the same 90's era, it looks like the flip flop switching...

Hi, I have a walrus audio aetos power supply that operates at 230v. Would it be possible to modify or install a new transformer so the power supply operates off of a 120v circuit?

Any recommendations on where to start?
I’ve built a few pedals and an amp from a kit so I have some basic electronics knowledge.

Thanks!

Hello, I am trying to build a ROG May Queen and there is a ton of white noise at the collector of Q2. The guitar signal also sounds 'choked' like there isn't enough voltage, but all of the voltage measure as they should according to runoffgroove.
I have actually built it twice with the same result because I thought I messed something up the first time.

The first build used the vero layout here:
the second, is the ROG perf layout.

I have breadboarded this circuit a few times and had no...

S alut/ H ello from Paris

Let me share with you my problems as I couldn't find (yet) any solution searching the web.

I've built two overdrives in one enclosure (TS808 and KOT): each has his true bypass footswitch with led, but one global IN/OUT and a cascading order switch. Both circuits are built on one veroboard, inspired by the layouts of Guitar Fx Layout (great site!) with a common ground stripe , and a daughter board for the diodes so I can easily change them for more magic ones :wink:...

Hi i'm needing some help with this.
I bought an MZ-2 on reverb with the mode knob not working properly.
The MZ-2 is an analog pcb which is the drive circuit sandwiched to a digital pcb which is the chorus/doubler circuit.
The issue being the Mode knob stays in drive mode no matter where i set it. I poked every solder joint with a chopstick and could barely get a whisper of the chorus/doubler signal. I even flowed some solder to the obvious connections to the mode knob and checked the...

Hello

I picked up a Peavey Ultraverb (the first edition). I am trying to fix it. All of the ICs are socketed but there are no numbers on the board to indicate pin 1.
I'm not sure if the previous owner put any of them in backwards. Does anyone have a picture of the PCB board?

Thanks

I bought a broken Carcosa thinking it was through hole, but it's not other than the pots and DC jack. The Before control seems broken and sounds like it has a bad cap passing DC, its very scratchy and the pedal doesn't sound anything like any of the demos I've heard. Could anyone possibly take some voltage measurements so I could try to locate the bad part?

Alternatively, anyone know where in the US I can send it for professional repair?

I have had a similar problem develop on their garagetone Tremolo pedal. This time its the open road pedal(clone of nobels odr1).

Both pedals are supposed to disconnect the battery when the input jack is unplugged.

Both of them start to generate lot of hiss and some sputtering/pops/static when I power them with a powersupply and the input cable is unplugged. With the input jacked plugged in the white noise decreases but the sputtering is still there. The noise is little less when using a...

Hello
I lent out an ammoon stereo looper (vague clone of the ehx 720) and it came back dead. I plug it in with the power supply in my studio and nothing happens, no leds light, no sign of life. I measure 9v at the power jack, and get similar voltages around the diodes and components in the attached photo. The schottky D2 seems ok : I get 9.12v on one side and 8.76v on the other, a 220R resistance one way and infinite/open the other.
diode D4 next to it reads 10 ohms resistance both ways. Is...

Hi folks,

Been tinkering with a circuit of mine for a while and trying to get around a design knowledge problem I have.
Basically I have an Opamp Big Muff running into a James Tonestack and I wanted to use a TL074/Quad Opamp so I used the last Opamp stage to act a boost.
I *almost* got there – the design works but I tried to be clever and have a pot in the FB loop of the opamp to act as a volume, with unity as 0 and boost from there.

The flaw is that at really high EQ settings (Both Treble...

I tried contacting Fulltone but their website no longer accepts emails. I heard a rumor that they went out of business?

I'm troubleshooting this pedal for a friend who just purchased it used. There are two op-amps in it are fried. Someone else said these are JRC4558D's. You can hear the effect barely when in non-bypass. The Fulltone manual says there are two modes of operation, true bypass and buffered bypass that can be selected with DIP switches. It warns that the unit will be damaged if...

leslie.gif I just finished the LERA and hooked it up to the Mistress, it works but I feel like the range is a bit on the low side

I think it has to do with the Lera being designed for speed pots ranging from 25K to 250K though in the page it says it was tested with a Ross flanger which has a 500K pot I think

The photocell I used is 8-24K light and 500K dark and I tested it with the LED and photocell not being wrapped with anything, they are just out there

Hi,

My friend asked me if I could take a look at his EHX Holy Grail which had been making weird noises.
I plugged it in and initially found the reverb wasn't working at all and I was only getting the clean signal, but no reverb.
I also noticed the 7805 regulator was really hot. Hot enough that I could only touch it for about 10s before it became uncomfortable.
Hot enough to have left a subtle brown coloring to the green PCB. So I thought this could be an issue maybe?

After opening it up I...

Hi. Does anyone know the best way to test if a way inductor is dicky or not, I've built a simple wah on strip board using a verified layout, but don';t have any signal passing through it. I just wondered how other DIY builders check their indictors.

Good morning everyone !

I got an old analog delay from an uknown brand - Nashville , made in Japan. It has a Reticon R5101 2000-stage chip in it as its delay line. I am starting to get used to building and repairing BBD-based delays but this one is weird ! It seems that I can't have any signal out of either output of the delay chip, but the input is behaving properly. Also, the clock is running well looking at it on my scope, behaving properly.
Attached, pictures of the inside board (to see...

Complicated switch wiring always throws me for a loop for some reason so I'm hoping you guys could help me out. I have a 10 pin 2P3T slide switch that I would like to replace with a DPDT toggle. Using the schematic attached, how would I go about wiring the DPDT to the same effect? I copied this connection info from another thread:

Pins 1 and 5 connect to the same plane, as do pins 6 and 10.
The two sliding switch contacts move in tandem.
Contact 1 connects pins 1&5 to either 2, 3 or 4....

I’m currently struggling with the small stone layout from tagboardeffects.blogspot. I’m not getting any power to the ICs, but my build keeps frying the BC337 transistor on the power supply end of the circuit. Has anyone experienced this problem and has a solution?

EHX SmallStone.png

So I’m having a weird issue. I’ve used regulators countless times over the year to drop voltages to where I need them to be.

For a few years I’ve been using an 18v regulator with a 24v 4A power supply. Works beautifully. However, if I try to add a 9v regulator, the regulator over heats or goes up in smoke while the 18v regulator continues to remain stable and cool. Any ideas what could be happening here?