Musitronics - Mu-Tron - Flanger - C130  [schematic]

All about modern commercial stompbox circuits from Electro Harmonix over MXR, Boss and Ibanez into the nineties.
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uncleboko
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Post by uncleboko »

Many thanks, could you possibly link a larger version for tired eyes? :D

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Post by digi2t »

uncleboko wrote:Many thanks, could you possibly link a larger version for tired eyes? :D
Click on the image, it will take you to the Photobucket image. Look at the lower right corner, click on the zoom (magnifying glass), and on the next image, click on the zoom again.

Trust me , it's plenty big. You might have to step back from your screen. :lol:
No matter how many times I cut it, it`s STILL too short!

https://www.deadendfx.com/

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Post by uncleboko »

digi2t wrote:
uncleboko wrote:Many thanks, could you possibly link a larger version for tired eyes? :D
Click on the image, it will take you to the Photobucket image. Look at the lower right corner, click on the zoom (magnifying glass), and on the next image, click on the zoom again.

Trust me , it's plenty big. You might have to step back from your screen. :lol:
Easy when you know how, fantastic, many thanks!

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Post by digi2t »

That's why we're all here for. No problem miho.
No matter how many times I cut it, it`s STILL too short!

https://www.deadendfx.com/

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Post by digi2t »

Updated the original schematic. I forgot to correct C50. Thanks to Larry for the pointer. :mrgreen:

Image
No matter how many times I cut it, it`s STILL too short!

https://www.deadendfx.com/

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digi2t
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Post by digi2t »

For those turned away from this unit because of the SAD1024, fear not, an alternative is available. The MN3007 works here perfectly. I build a daughterboard, and tested it in place of the SAD. With some retuning, the unit performs as it would with an SAD1024. Here is the perf layout;

Image

And what it looks like;

Image

Image

As you can see, it's a direct plug in to the SAD socket, with one wire to connect to the PCB.

Here's the schematic;

Image

Thanks to armdnrdy for the brain work on this one.
No matter how many times I cut it, it`s STILL too short!

https://www.deadendfx.com/

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ch1naski
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Post by ch1naski »

awesome work, digi. thanks so much for this, it puts it in reach now.

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Post by digi2t »

ATTENTION!!! ATTENTION!!!

Armdnrdy has completed the build doc for the Mutron Flanger clone. Fits inside a Morley housing, and uses the MN3007 to replace the SAD1024. He's the demo video;



I can say with honesty, that it sounds just like my original unit. He's done a smashing job. The build doc is here;

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/532 ... cument.pdf

Many thanks to armdnrdy for all the hard grunt work, and to all those that imparted their wisdom upon this project. Stick a fork in this one people! :applause:
No matter how many times I cut it, it`s STILL too short!

https://www.deadendfx.com/

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Post by agoldoor »

Holy crap, I can't believe he finally did it... I hadn't looked over at DIY on that thread for some time... amazing. Dino, thank you again for spending the dough, hunting the yetis, and spreading the knowledge =)

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Post by sadrew »

amazing

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Post by hasanova »

Many thanks for this forum and this amazing Flanger clone.

I have a question about the housing. What kind of Morley housing is ideal for this build? European regulation don't allow for a Morley EOV to be sold through the distributor. So, I'm checking ieb@y for an alternative housing, like a PVO+ or PWOV. Or is it a non-issue, as long as it's optical and not a mini series pedal by Morley?

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Post by hasanova »

I've found the dimensions: 9.13"(L) x 5.88"(W) x 2.75"(H)

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Post by armdnrdy1 »

I used the Moreley Optical Volume pedal for the enclosure because it had a minimum of original holes.
Some of the Moreley models have holes for controls and LEDS that are not in line with this build, and would have to be filled.

Here is a dimensioned drawing that I worked up for the Optical Volume pedal.

Image

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soulheal
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Post by soulheal »

digi2t wrote:ATTENTION!!! ATTENTION!!!

Armdnrdy has completed the build doc for the Mutron Flanger clone. Fits inside a Morley housing, and uses the MN3007 to replace the SAD1024. He's the demo video;



I can say with honesty, that it sounds just like my original unit. He's done a smashing job. The build doc is here;

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/532 ... cument.pdf

Many thanks to armdnrdy for all the hard grunt work, and to all those that imparted their wisdom upon this project. Stick a fork in this one people! :applause:
Hi,

I have, over the past year or so, managed to build 2 of the Mutron Flanger clones. However, they do not seem to work. I feel that i have missed something basic. It may be the fault of a cold-solder or 2, as this is my first real build. I am not getting any response from them when plugged in. I have not calibrated them yet, and I don't know if this is why they are not activating. At any rate, I was hoping to get a few pointers as to what may be causing this. I did my best to keep to all the right parts. Even ordered stuff from Europe.
I hope that i can at least get on the right track to an answer. I was hoping to sell one and keep one.

Thanks for your help and best regards,

Will

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armdnrdy1
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Post by armdnrdy1 »

Will, The descriptions of your problem, "they do not seem to work", "I am not getting any response" are very vague.

If you could be so kind as to expand on the problem you are encountering...maybe someone here can offer some suggestions.

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soulheal
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Post by soulheal »

armdnrdy1 wrote:Will, The descriptions of your problem, "they do not seem to work", "I am not getting any response" are very vague.

If you could be so kind as to expand on the problem you are encountering...maybe someone here can offer some suggestions.
Hi,

I'm sorry for the vagueness of my statements. I shall attempt to better phrase them.

What I'm trying to say is that when i plug them in, the LEDS do not light up, I do not get a bypass signal going through the pedal, and there is no effect.

When I hook up a multimeter to the solder points on the input jack, I get a reading of .070 VAC. I am using a 12V 3A max AC/AC power supply. Is this the right one? Should it be input DC/output AC?

Thanks very much for your attention to this.

Will

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armdnrdy1
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Post by armdnrdy1 »

Check your post on the other site.

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