Antigua wrote: ↑19 Jun 2020, 21:13
Hanky- wrote: ↑19 Jun 2020, 17:51
Antigua wrote: ↑18 Jun 2020, 21:32
Hanky- wrote: ↑18 Jun 2020, 18:01
I modded my Cali sound with a bunch of mini dpdt switches to get for pedals in one housing, so basically I hve the american, actone, british & cali in one box under the hood. I considered using panel mount toggle switches but that would require a bunch of drilling, these pcb type dpdt mini switches were easier to just hot glue on the back of the pcb. I did add a cab bypass switch in there too but didn't take recent pic of it. Few more(4) could get me the oxford in there as well but I'm not a fan of that pedal much.
While at it, I put in new electrolytics throughout most places, just cause I had some with me & this pedal was from 2012 stockpile, figured I leave new ones in there.
I don't really know what sets all four of them apart, let alone that it's possible to get all four versions working on one board. How did you figure out what to do to make it work?
Like JiM pointed out above me. The big character series thread has a good breakdown & component differences among the various pedals. That and the Sansamp GT2 schematic are both helpful, in understanding these pedals work.
You have to remove the R28, R29, C20 & C21 on the Cali pedal because they are the components for the Off Axis Mic setting, the others use a jumper in the form of 0 ohms in place of R28 & empty pads for the rest cause they have the On Axis Mic setting, I figured that out following the GT2 schematic. That's why the cab sim bypass mod sounds wrong with the Cali pedal & not with the others. However if you remove the Mic sim components on the Cali then you also need to change the value of R31 because it is set higher & will give a huge dB boost without the off Axis Mic sim in there. Two 4PDT mini switches will take care of the whole switching in & out of the components involved for the cab & Mic sim bypass on the Cali except for the 3.9nF cap I think, might need additional dpdt switch. However just removing R29 & C20 & subbing R28 to a jumper or 0 ohm will take out the Cali's off Axis Mic sim.
Two mini soldering iron can help in removing these tiny smd components easily.
Thanks for the detailed answer. I didn't realize the California bypass sounded wrong. Given that the bode plots of the other three are identical without the cab sim, I'd say they must be wrong too, unless the assertion is that the cab is the only thing that sets those amps apart in real life. It looks like the non-Cali's have the same "base" tone. I'm sure their associated cabs are big part of it, though. It would be cool if you could make a little how-to of what you did, but I understand that interest in modding the Joyos is probably too limited to make it worth the trouble.
I'm mostly happy with how this came out because the pedals are a bit too dark to use with a guitar amp by themselves, and this at least gives them a way to work as a 4-band dirt pedal when not serving as an amp simulator.
There is a chart in a post by Stephanovitch on page 21 of this thread
viewtopic.php?p=237567#top
The corresponding values of the components for the joyo pcbs is put in brackets in the column of the british
It's got all the list of important components that are different between the pedals. That should help out with converting one to another or just putting more than one in one box. The British is easier to convert into others because it shares more components in common with american, actone & the calif.
The only component value I found odd was of R24 on the american sound in the chart, mine had 39K in place of the reported 33k, if you end up opening the american sound up again then just note down the code on the resistor R24 in there for confirmation.
The hot glue & wires technique is the only way to not end up pulling out the solder pads of the smd components, just measure the length of wire you will need from the solder pad to the point where the other end will be soldered onto a switch, hot glue the wire to the pcb surface first, at an area where there aren't any smd components underneath the glue, after that solder the wire to the smd pads last because there is a possibility to pull on them accidentally while working at the soldering part of the switch end of things. Do not try to remove the hot glue if its stuck to an smd component, if absolutely needed then do it patiently otherwise the smd part will peel off from the board along with the glue.
The cab sim bypass is very useful when trying to use these as overdrive pedals, as a preamp its useful too but I haven't played with it much in that area but there was a difference, the cab sim in these is mild sounding, it can be dialed down with the eq controls on the pedal or better with an eq pedal after it
Since I got all in one box I've been able to play around with mixing values of the components between the series, like actone with the british greenback sim & stuff. The calif is way too bass heavy for guitar, I did find the american with the calif mic sim components to be a far better usuable pedal for high gain type sounds. For recording anyways
One could get panel mount dpdt switches or 4pdt switches & be able to put most of these component changes in a single box & switch on the fly from the exterior of the enclosure. I have all four individually around with me but the calif had started to get used the least lately, so it was the one that I picked for the massive experimental surgery.