Dunlop - JH-F1 Jimi Hendrix Fuzz Face [schematic]
- beedotman
- Diode Debunker
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Here's schematic:
in this case "Contour" knob is 1K pot wich will give You more output than 500R.
in this case "Contour" knob is 1K pot wich will give You more output than 500R.
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How much of an affect does C5 have on the tone? I understand what's going on electrically there, but what does it Sound like?
- beedotman
- Diode Debunker
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You're refering to JF-F1 scehmatic?BAARON wrote:How much of an affect does C5 have on the tone? I understand what's going on electrically there, but what does it Sound like?
I suppose that it tame some high end content...
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So would you suggest a change of R3 to 220R instead of leaving the stock 330R?beedotman wrote:Mid's control in '70 is very similar to Contour knob in '69 - it replaces 470R (in standard germanium version of fuzz face circuit) resistor with 220R + 1K pot in series. In '70 it's 220R + 500R pot in place of standard silocon fuzz face value 330R.phil esposito wrote:I asked this question in a different thread but I think maybe this is a better location for the question; I'm looking to add a mid's control to my JH-F1 like the Fulltone 70.
Would a 1k pot work as described in the Fuller Mod's in the 'Technology of Fuzz Faces' article? http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/f ... fffram.htm
http://analogguru.an.ohost.de/001/schem ... _JH-F1.gif
- beedotman
- Diode Debunker
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If You will use 220R+1K pot You'll get wider range than 330R+500R pot.phil esposito wrote:So would you suggest a change of R3 to 220R instead of leaving the stock 330R?beedotman wrote:Mid's control in '70 is very similar to Contour knob in '69 - it replaces 470R (in standard germanium version of fuzz face circuit) resistor with 220R + 1K pot in series. In '70 it's 220R + 500R pot in place of standard silocon fuzz face value 330R.phil esposito wrote:I asked this question in a different thread but I think maybe this is a better location for the question; I'm looking to add a mid's control to my JH-F1 like the Fulltone 70.
Would a 1k pot work as described in the Fuller Mod's in the 'Technology of Fuzz Faces' article? http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/f ... fffram.htm
http://analogguru.an.ohost.de/001/schem ... _JH-F1.gif
With 1K pot You can even go lower - to 100R if You preffer lower settings on '70.
I like fixed resistor here - 820R gives You plenty of output...
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beedotman wrote:If You will use 220R+1K pot You'll get wider range than 330R+500R pot.phil esposito wrote:So would you suggest a change of R3 to 220R instead of leaving the stock 330R?beedotman wrote:Mid's control in '70 is very similar to Contour knob in '69 - it replaces 470R (in standard germanium version of fuzz face circuit) resistor with 220R + 1K pot in series. In '70 it's 220R + 500R pot in place of standard silocon fuzz face value 330R.phil esposito wrote:I asked this question in a different thread but I think maybe this is a better location for the question; I'm looking to add a mid's control to my JH-F1 like the Fulltone 70.
Would a 1k pot work as described in the Fuller Mod's in the 'Technology of Fuzz Faces' article? http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/f ... fffram.htm
http://analogguru.an.ohost.de/001/schem ... _JH-F1.gif
With 1K pot You can even go lower - to 100R if You preffer lower settings on '70.
I like fixed resistor here - 820R gives You plenty of output...
Cool! Thanks! I'll have to order a pot and try it. I'm going to add an LED as well. Thanks for the help!
SUCCESS! I wired this up last night and it sounds awesome. I realized that the fuzz pot is a 1K and I never turn down the fuzz anyway so I pot a trim pot in for the fuzz and used the orignal pot as the 'Mids' pot. No holes required! This thing has a great range of tones now. I've marked were the original setting is (333R) so I'll know how to get back to stock but I do like it a little hire to help cut a little more.
I'll do a demo soon.
I'll do a demo soon.
Here's a crappy demo...ignore the slop!
- sinner
- Old Solderhand
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so it looks like 10R really
How to make this 4.5V and 0.5 bias ?sinner wrote:I'm not sure why Chris Brown thanked me for my previous message, perhaps because I made stupid mistake typing Q1 twice and I make him laugh, but, never mind I'm sure it's 0,5v on Q1 and 4,5v on Q2
Anyway, here's the lil perfboard layout I did. I was inspired by EW's perfboard fuzzface layouts he done years ago. I just simply added few components as per schematic, still a lot of vintage charm and vibe. No trimmers, it's easy to set fixed bias, we're not going into mass production, do we?
thanks for this layout
- beedotman
- Diode Debunker
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Try different transistors or use trimpots in place of resistors on Q1 and Q2 collectors to get desired voltages.ThoWmas31 wrote:How to make this 4.5V and 0.5 bias ?sinner wrote:I'm not sure why Chris Brown thanked me for my previous message, perhaps because I made stupid mistake typing Q1 twice and I make him laugh, but, never mind I'm sure it's 0,5v on Q1 and 4,5v on Q2
Anyway, here's the lil perfboard layout I did. I was inspired by EW's perfboard fuzzface layouts he done years ago. I just simply added few components as per schematic, still a lot of vintage charm and vibe. No trimmers, it's easy to set fixed bias, we're not going into mass production, do we?
thanks for this layout
http://www.turretboard.org 4 life!
- loylo
- Breadboard Brother
I currently have a JHF1 on my bench. Here are some informations:
Q1C = 1.35V
Q2C = 5.75V
C1 is indeed 2.2µ, and C3 is 100n
BUT R5 is 10R, not 100R.
I've also read the trimpots, and VR1 is set at approx. 10K and VR2 at 190R...
So I assume VR1 is 20K trim, and VR2 a 1K trim.
I'll get rid of R1 sothat I can read C5.
Q1C = 1.35V
Q2C = 5.75V
C1 is indeed 2.2µ, and C3 is 100n
BUT R5 is 10R, not 100R.
I've also read the trimpots, and VR1 is set at approx. 10K and VR2 at 190R...
So I assume VR1 is 20K trim, and VR2 a 1K trim.
I'll get rid of R1 sothat I can read C5.
- sinner
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loylo wrote:I currently have a JHF1 on my bench. Here are some informations:
Q1C = 1.35V
Q2C = 5.75V
C1 is indeed 2.2µ, and C3 is 100n
BUT R5 is 10R, not 100R.
I've also read the trimpots, and VR1 is set at approx. 10K and VR2 at 190R...
So I assume VR1 is 20K trim, and VR2 a 1K trim.
I'll get rid of R1 sothat I can read C5.
You're lovely
- sinner
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loylo wrote:So, here I am again!
C5 is unreadable with my DMM, it should be under 100pF...
Q1 and Q2 seem to have same gain, around 260.
As I said before, I'm sure it's 47pF
Thanks for it
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
ok here's my layout I just made... checked once but not twice, and not yet built and verified. maybe do a quick check before you build this or I'll report back if I get to it first
edit: removed, see below
here's the schematic I used, even though it is apparently sacrilegious to edit someone else's graphic, sorry if anyone's offended
edit: removed, see below
here's the schematic I used, even though it is apparently sacrilegious to edit someone else's graphic, sorry if anyone's offended
Last edited by Seiche on 10 Jun 2012, 13:25, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: removed wrong layout (so nobody accidentally builds this)
Reason: removed wrong layout (so nobody accidentally builds this)
- Chris Brown
- Breadboard Brother
Here's my build that was inspired by this thread. Mine is not an exact clone of the jhf1... feedback r is more like 98K the transistors are ti bc108s 350 and 600 hfe... i suspect the original unit has much lower gains than this. It has external bias and also an external input trim since I already had a box drilled for four knobs... I've used it on stage a lot already... thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread! here it is...