Boss - HM-2 Heavy Metal

Freppo · Post by **Freppo** » 07 Dec 2013, 16:40

Hmm.. I can't edit my posts for some reason?

Anyway, I was trying to embed this video:

I filmed it today with my ipad.. it's my vero layout (through a breadboard, i'm using trimmers insted of post for testing)
I'm using 50K log pot for volume to let alittle more volume through.. Also, I found that a A20K pot works better for gain.

macsniper · Post by **macsniper** » 10 Dec 2013, 00:12

Freppo wrote: Hi!
Thanks for spotting the error, correcting it actually helped with reducing the oscillation I had problems with earlier.
The fix was very easy, just move the positive leg of C3 down to row F. I will update and post the changed layout soon.
Now it's working 100% for me.

No problem, I do my very best

Freppo wrote: Strange that you get 1.7v at the voltage divider.. I hope you find the problem.

At least I fixed that problem now, I get something like 4.6V with 9.3V at the battery. Nevertheless, the sound just dies after the first capacitor, and I have no clue why. Maybe I'm using audioprobe wrong, or maybe the transistor is dead... gotta keep trying, I NEED the death metal saw sound...

macsniper · Post by **macsniper** » 18 Dec 2013, 14:42

Ok, my HM2-Clone is working now, except the same issue you had with high gain levels. What value did you use for C5?

Krakenpine · Post by **Krakenpine** » 19 Dec 2013, 11:22

Wait. What's with the D1 and D2. In the layout they are parallel when in the schematic they are in series. That could explain some of the sound differencies because the distortion is symmetrical instead of the asymmetrical of the original.

Freppo · Post by **Freppo** » 25 Dec 2013, 23:04

macsniper wrote:Ok, my HM2-Clone is working now, except the same issue you had with high gain levels. What value did you use for C5?

I decided that messing wih C5 changed the tone too much, and it only helped with lower gain transistors anyway that didn't sound right, so I kept C5 stock. But another possible solution would be to place a buffer at the input. The original is buffered so I thought that may be the problem with this schematic? Maybe a buffer is really needed.

First try a buffered pedal in front of the circuit and see if that helps.

Here's a layout for a really simple but nice buffer that is small enough to fit together in a 1590BB
download/file.php?mode=view&id=23156

Krakenpine wrote:Wait. What's with the D1 and D2. In the layout they are parallel when in the schematic they are in series. That could explain some of the sound differencies because the distortion is symmetrical instead of the asymmetrical of the original.

Well spotted sir! You are correct. I doubt it should matter much since there are so many stages of clipping and both ways are asymmetrical, but if you want to build it 1:1 with the schematic you could just solder two diodes together standing up. Thanks for the headsup though

cheers
/ Fredrik

ps. Sorry for my late reply, I had totallt forgotten about this thread]

Slabbefusk · Post by **Slabbefusk** » 26 Jan 2014, 10:31

GodSaveMetal wrote:
Slabbefusk wrote:At first I put a 2N5551 instead of the 2SC224 and a 2N5401 instead of 2SA970. I don't know why i picked those replacements in the first place, I guess I trusted google too much. Now there is a BC547 where the 2SC2240 is originally and a BC557 instead of the 2SA970. Is there no editing function on this forum?
Please note hte 2SA970 is a PNP E-C-B and the BC557 is a PNP E-B-C watch the pinout!!!!
Also the 2SC2240 is a NPN E-C-B and the BC547 is a NPN E-B-C watch the pinout!!!!!!!!!!!

Please read all my recomendations and changes!!!!!!!!!!

I will read your recommendations

.

And yes I was aware of the change in pinout so I just flipped them around and it worked fine. My friend who I built it for had some issues with noise though which I believe stem from the fact that his wallwart is a switching supply with switch frequency in the human hearing range. It worked fine with a battery just a little low on the gain.

I will build more of these with a better layout and try to find the monolithic op-amps as well as make an all SMD version.

Post by **GodSaveMetal** » 26 Jan 2014, 15:02

Slabbefusk wrote:
GodSaveMetal wrote:
Slabbefusk wrote:At first I put a 2N5551 instead of the 2SC224 and a 2N5401 instead of 2SA970. I don't know why i picked those replacements in the first place, I guess I trusted google too much. Now there is a BC547 where the 2SC2240 is originally and a BC557 instead of the 2SA970. Is there no editing function on this forum?
Please note hte 2SA970 is a PNP E-C-B and the BC557 is a PNP E-B-C watch the pinout!!!!
Also the 2SC2240 is a NPN E-C-B and the BC547 is a NPN E-B-C watch the pinout!!!!!!!!!!!

Please read all my recomendations and changes!!!!!!!!!!
I will read your recommendations .

And yes I was aware of the change in pinout so I just flipped them around and it worked fine. My friend who I built it for had some issues with noise though which I believe stem from the fact that his wallwart is a switching supply with switch frequency in the human hearing range. It worked fine with a battery just a little low on the gain.

I will build more of these with a better layout and try to find the monolithic op-amps as well as make an all SMD version.

Please post some pics of this!!!!!!!!!!!! great man!!! the lay is OK!!! superverified!!!!!!!

loylo · Post by **loylo** » 05 Feb 2014, 09:33

Hi GodSaveMetal!

I own an old HM2 and the PCB is pretty destroyed by all the mods that had been made.
I'd like to do a new PCB so your work is quite helpful.

I have printed your layout, and the problem is that the size of the PCB is a little bigger than the original PCB, so it don't fit in the original box.
Can you share all the files (Eagles or whatever the software you used to make your layout) sothat I could adapt the layout to the original box, please?

matt239 · Post by **matt239** » 01 Mar 2014, 20:13

Do the first stage transistors clip?
Or are they just clean boost?

How would we mod that section for less gain?

darvinya · Post by **darvinya** » 03 Mar 2014, 10:29

loylo wrote:Hi GodSaveMetal!

I own an old HM2 and the PCB is pretty destroyed by all the mods that had been made.
I'd like to do a new PCB so your work is quite helpful.

I have printed your layout, and the problem is that the size of the PCB is a little bigger than the original PCB, so it don't fit in the original box.
Can you share all the files (Eagles or whatever the software you used to make your layout) sothat I could adapt the layout to the original box, please?

Hi

If you still have the circuit board, then Solder out on all plastic parts and scenneld (not a photo of!) On both sides. Add it up and do it improved the mucus.

Drachir_6 · Post by **Drachir_6** » 28 May 2014, 18:25

Anyone got any tips on how to make HM2-style circuits more usable gain-wise? I have a DOD Americal Metal and find that even with the gain at 0 it's incredibly distorted. Swapping the pot seems the easiest approach but should I make it a bigger or smaller value? Cheers!

IvIark · Post by **IvIark** » 28 May 2014, 18:31

Forgot to post these:

and a version with an additional mids pot

Pedal Dan · Post by **Pedal Dan** » 21 Sep 2014, 01:53

soulsonic wrote:Am I one of the only ones who likes the STOCK HM-2 sound?
C'mon guys - this sound is awesome:

Me too. Although... I've been enjoying the new DS-1X.

x-tn · Post by **x-tn** » 11 Feb 2015, 15:55

Slabbefusk · Post by **Slabbefusk** » 11 Nov 2015, 10:02

As I wrote earlier in the thread I will make an SMD version of this pedal. Everything except the transistors will sized down. I managed to find a source in Sweden for the transistors. The OP-amps will be the classic 4558.

Will post pics when there is more work done!

Slabbefusk · Post by **Slabbefusk** » 15 Dec 2015, 13:34

I don't know if I should add an edit to my previous post or just go for it. So here goes.

I've bought some 2SC2240 and 2SA970 trannies but they come in two variants, the BL and GR ones. The thing that differs is the hfe. What kind have you guys used when building your clones?

IvIark · Post by **IvIark** » 15 Dec 2015, 21:46

BL and GR signifies the gain range in the transistor (GR: 200-400, BL: 350-700). I don't know for sure with the HM2 but the HM3 definitely used GR variants so I would assume the same was true for the HM2.

Slabbefusk · Post by **Slabbefusk** » 16 Dec 2015, 09:05

IvIark wrote:BL and GR signifies the gain range in the transistor (GR: 200-400, BL: 350-700). I don't know for sure with the HM2 but the HM3 definitely used GR variants so I would assume the same was true for the HM2.

Thanks for the reply! I just got a kit called "The Swede" which is an HM-2 clone as well. It uses a 2N3904/3906 pair instead of the 2SC2240/2SA970. The 2N3904/3906 have very similar gain to the GR variants. Will build both the kit and my own to see if there is any difference!

Pruttelherrie · Post by **Pruttelherrie** » 18 Jan 2016, 21:26

Shameless Selfpromotion Alert!

One of my bands just released our second EP on tape. Actually we didn't release it, it escaped, but that's just details. Oldschool Swedish Death Metal.

Listen here: https://rottencasket.bandcamp.com/album ... d-by-filth

One guitar is HM-2 into ENGL Savage 60, the other is HM-2 into Marshall DSL100H. Recorded at home, mixed by Jimmy from Entrails.

The first EP was ENGL e530 into my HM-2-filter (see earlier in thread) and that into ENGL e850; 50%/50% mixed with HM-2 into Marshall JCM900, for both guitars.

Blitz Krieg · Post by **Blitz Krieg** » 19 Jan 2016, 07:33

swedish hm-2 style?

that's a thing?

brutal

Boss - HM-2 Heavy Metal [schematic]