Behringer SF300 mods

A forum devoted to mod, tips and suggestions for upgrading and rehousing your VERY CHEAP commercial stompbox to near boutique excellence.
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Hanky-
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015, 08:51
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Post by Hanky- »

Got my pedal delivered today, started checking the circuit with the schematic & so far found these values to be different from the Boss FZ2.

R23= 47k
R3= 27k
R10= 1.8k
C26= 1.5nF
R64= 56k
R61= 56k
[C32= 150nF Ceramic type]

These when compared to the FZ2 should be as follows:
R23= 10k
R3= 100k
R10= 2.9k
C26= 47pF
R64= 47k
R61= 47k
[C32= 150n Tantalum type]

The R64 & R61 are part of the buffer portion of the circuit. I didn't notice the buffer to be degrading so these can be left alone. I had not noticed the C26 being different so when I went ahead with switch the values to Boss specs, the unit sounded messed up, had to go back to stock setup. I don't have a 47pF cap at hand for the moment, will have to wait till it arrives. Besides these, I haven't found anything else that's different. By default the sf300 sounds very good, 90% like the FZ2 in the vids I could source online.

A word of caution, behringer tends to glue their smd components, it's not difficult to get them out with two soldering irons, just takes a little longer. Also you will need two irons to get these off the board without a risk of uprooting the solder pads.

Here's a pic I've attached to locate these components on board.
Attachments
SF300-001.jpg

Hanky-
Posts: 33
Joined: 22 Jul 2015, 08:51
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Post by Hanky- »

Well I need to update this thread, you need to change C26 to 47p, R61 & R64 to 47k. That's it, everything else is correct, ignore my findings above, you can check the FZ2 thread for my post for more details, dont see the need to explain the problem again.

Also the red glue dots on either sides of the components, use a pair of tweezers to remove them gently first, then try to unsoder.

Man the prices on used FZ have soared high lately, found listings upto $400+.

Goodluck!

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