Original effects with schematics, layouts and instructions, freely contributed by members or found in publications. Cannot be used for commercial purposes without the consent of the owners of the copyright.
soulsonic wrote:Be sure and use an ICL7660S. The "S" means it's the 12v version! No power supply worries with that one.
Hi,
My few words:
Operating voltage range for ICL7660 ---1.5V to 10.0V
ICL7660A--1.5V to 12.0V,
but important is oscillator frequency :
ICL7660 ----10kHz
ICL7660S---35kHz ( Cosc=0, PIN1=V+)
With "S" there is no interference with audio range.
Best regards,
box
so the topography is essentially the same as the first/longstanding schemo, but there were a lot of wrong values and some additions on front and rear of the circuit. so this one could be built on the initial pcb board layout?---i still have a blank board i etched a few months back and never used. thanks rh
rhinson wrote:so the topography is essentially the same as the first/longstanding schemo, but there were a lot of wrong values and some additions on front and rear of the circuit. so this one could be built on the initial pcb board layout?---i still have a blank board i etched a few months back and never used. thanks rh
Yeah I was curious as to which layout to use... as there are now a few in this thread.
OK Baja.. you're the boss!!!
I actually have to order some ICs- I've got a fistful of Max1044's but I want to make sure I get it EXACT, otherwise why bother???
i just pulled the old wrong values off the old layout and made the value changes and the front and rear end changes. even though i didn't have a couple of the exact right values this time around the build sounds very close to what i remember the real deal sounding like. i have buddy with one and will a/b it when i get the chance. one problem i'm having though is a big pop when switching in either direction and i have no idea why since there is a 100k to ground on the output. any ideas here or have others experienced this with their builds? rh
OK, I've got all my parts in stock... but I have a question: I've never done anything with buffered I/O before. how do I wire up the footswitch? Does anyone have a guide illustrating how the switch should be wired?
I've never done anything with buffered I/O before. how do I wire up the footswitch?
Okay - easy enough.
connect the midlle pin of the footswitch to the output socket, then connect the effect output to one of the remaining two pins on the footswitch.
finally - connect the BUFFER out to the remaining footswitch pin.
All done ( no input switching is required )
cheers
bajaman
The IN on the board is coming directly from the input jack?
correct
how would I do it with a DPDT footswitch???
Okay - just use one half, or the three pins along one side of the switch.
You can use the other side of the switch to turn the effect indicator LED on or off.
I've been putting together a parts list from the schematic...man have a learned a lot from just doing that!
So where are you guys getting your parts? I've had luck with Mouser finding all resistors but one. As well as the OA TL072CP. They don't carry Panasonic caps so I'm screwed there. I'm new to all of this...please pardon my ignorance.
What is D1? It just says "red". Wasn't sure how to interpret that. And the footswitch...is it DPDT?
What is D1? It just says "red". Wasn't sure how to interpret that. And the footswitch...is it DPDT?
It is a red light emiting diode or LED for short - indicator light to tell you when the effect is on!!!
DPDT = Double Pole Double Throw - it is a footswitch with six contact pins, although you can use a TPDT = triple pole Double Throw (9 pins) as well - just ignore 3 pins
cheers
bajaman
All the parts can be had from DigiKey. I actually think that Klon sources all their components from DigiKey, because the Centaur uses a bunch of parts that are easily gotten there, but not from other popular distributors.
Another note; please pay attention to the lead spacing of the different caps. I had initially thought all the film caps were ECQ-B series, but the higher values of that series are too physically large - as you can see in the Klone I built. I think the larger values might be of the "V" series. At any rate, they are all Panasonic "brownies".
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
Thanks Baja and GS. I updated my parts list and sent it to SoulSonic to look at. I'll be glad to post the list I have, but don't want to waste the space if you guys don't need it. The caps are the only thing in question for me. Oh yeah, and the Carling 316P footswitch. Why is that thing so expensive?
Thanks for the help guys. Can't wait to do the build. Just a little shy about making an order and getting the wrong parts.
The diodes are orientated wrong Mine had -8V on the V+ section
No - they are shown correct on my revision 2 layout and correct in soulsonic's schematic.
The -8v supply (from pin 5 of the charge multiplier IC) connects to pin 4 of the second TL072 opamp - this is also correct.
Sorry, but I do not understand what your problem is
bajaman
My Build compares nicely with an original Klon. Not identical but close enough. Baja and Soulsonic should be applauded for their hard work and willingness to share. Morecowbell started the ball rolling, so kudo's to him too. His schem was actually pretty close, best we had at the time. The klon is kind of "the mother of all boutiques" to me, correct info is a big deal.
I would like to know AG's thoughts on the corrected schem, if any info was posted I didn't see it.