Fred Briggs - '64 - Vintage Vox Tones :)

Original effects with schematics, layouts and instructions, freely contributed by members or found in publications. Cannot be used for commercial purposes without the consent of the owners of the copyright.
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jimosity
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Post by jimosity »

Sitting here bored at work; honing my Eagle skills and worked up this layout/PCB.
Anyone care to give it a look and see if you have any suggestions.
(I like big fat traces by the way)
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PCB (300dpi)
PCB (300dpi)
VintageVoxPCB.png (1.71 KiB) Viewed 2338 times

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shagga
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Post by shagga »

Hi there, just a quick question regarding the arrangement of the two diodes:

I ordered some SB340 diodes, and instead got a few SR340 diodes.
To my knowledge, these are essentially the same, BUT: the SR340's i got are really big, fat thingies with appropriatley chunky legs.
These legs do not fit into a standard vero hole, so i'd have to either enlarge the two holes or solder some thinner wire pieces to the SR340 to mount it.
My question is now, could i just tack solder the SR340 (in reverse) onto the BAT46's legs and then solder this "combo" into the two holes reserved for the BAT46, using the BAT46's normal (thinner wired) legs?
These two are parallel on the vero anyways, right?

(I am talking about this schematic's vero layout done by sinner - thank you!)

Cheers m8s!

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HENK
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Post by HENK »

YES!

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~arph
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Post by ~arph »

Fatter pads! So you have some margin when drilling.
In the quiet words of the virgin Mary: "Come again?"

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atreidesheir
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Post by atreidesheir »

jimosity wrote:(I like big fat traces by the way)
Oh, you said traces.
"Contemplate it - on the tree of woe." :Thulsa Doom

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shagga
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Post by shagga »

sinner wrote:Not the sexiest animal in the forest, but I have no time to play with it harder today

Panasonic SMF is the cap of my choice here
Hi there m8s,
i built this layout and unfortunately it doesn't work for me.. :cry:
As some other people seem to have built this successfully using sinner's layout, this seems to be my fault.

I get some output signal, but it's very weak in comparison to the bypass signal and more or less clean / unprocessed.
I tryed an old button style 2n3565 and a 2N5088 as transistor, but no change there?

My first questions:
The 10uF elko has got it's minus leg on the marked, top side (upper hole) in this layout, right?
There are 5 cuts and one jumper on your layout?

I piggybacked the two diodes and soldered them into only one pair of holes (see my older post here), i guess that can't be the problem...

Any help is very much appreciated guys, thank you very much!

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sinner
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Post by sinner »

It's late, so time to hit the hay, but i'll overlook it tomorrow

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shagga
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Post by shagga »

Thank you sinner!
I went over your layout again checking it against the schematic, and to me it looks perfectly fine.
(Wouldn't have thought anything else!)

Here are a few pics of my built being tested on the beavis board if you'd like to take a peek at what might be my problem:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/FB-64-001.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/FB-64-002.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/FB-64-003.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/FB-64-004.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/FB-64-005.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/FB-64-006.JPG

Thank you! :hug:

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sinner
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Post by sinner »

My pleasure :)

Are you sure transistor pinout is right? I'm not sure (can't remember) did I actually checked transistor datasheet

Most of my mistakes are in wiring, specially V+ part, but since you say you get some sort of signal when on, my type is the pinout

BTW: Why the fuck it isn't on my website? :mrgreen:

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shagga
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Post by shagga »

pinout seems right to me, i used this as a reference:
http://pinout-circuits-images.dz863.com/28/2N5088.jpg

Flat side up: E B C (from left to right)
Round side up: C B E (from left to right)

And this is how the 2N5088 in this picture is attached to the sockets:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/FB-64-004.JPG

Could the piggybacked diodes cause any trouble?
I tacksoldered the SB380 onto the BAT46 (the markings facing in opposite direction) and then soldered the BAT46 into the vero.
(I ordered SB340 but got SB380 instead, this is what's built in right now. Could this be problematic?)
See them here: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/FB-64-005.JPG

Any measurements i could do to help find the problem?
I do have a audioprobe thingy, so i could try and follow the audiosignal and see if it dies somewhere along the path...

Cheers!

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sinner
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Post by sinner »

No idea with the diodes bro, It wasn't me who design it ;) I can speak only in relation to my mistakes ;)

Try to swap that transistor 180 degrees, pinout may differ depend of manufacture plant/company

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shagga
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Post by shagga »

Thanks, i'll try that tonight, when i'm back home.. :horsey:

Could anyone, who has successfully built this chime in and tell me about the "default behaviour" of the '64?
Is there a lot of boost / output volume available?
How is the gain at max in your builts? Light overdrive at max settings or rather hot distortion?
That might help me identify the problem.. cheers you good folks!

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shagga
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Post by shagga »

Good morning!
So i tried swapping different transistors but to no avail... :(
Strange thing is, swapping the pinout also did NOT change anything!? how could that be!?

Observations:
- I do get output signal, but it is really very weak compared to the bypassed signal
- The Volume pot crackles during use, doesn't do much in volume or tonal change, but cuts the signal off when off
- The Headroom pot doesn't seem to do anything noticeable
- The Master pot works as expected, making the signal quieter (from quiet to quieter right now..)

So, any ideas anyone? :scratch:
I checked for bad solder joints and solder bridges but as of yet couldn't find anything...

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sinner
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Post by sinner »

Good morning to you

I was hoping this will sort out the issues you have :(

No idea what's the problem could be. Perhaps there is a short between stripboard strips? or faulty component...

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shagga
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Post by shagga »

Thanks m8, i'll go over the stripboard solderside with a magnifying glass again tomorrow. :hmmm:
Will also check the pots with a DMM, maybe i really got a faulty one?

What i find particularly irritating is, that swapping the transitor pins did not make any difference!?
Should'nt it be like so, that when the tranistor's pins are connected wrong, that there'd be no signal at all!?

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Quietus
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Post by Quietus »

hi, i just did a vero layout for this if anyone's interested..
not verified though! :P

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Fred Briggs 64 Vintage Vox Tones.gif

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meek
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Post by meek »

cool :applause:

i think i am gonna build this one and box it in a 1590BB looking something like this :)
...but with a sharper picture of the amp.

Image

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copachino
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Post by copachino »

can i buld this using another trannie??? 2N3565 are really hard to get

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andregarcia57
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Post by andregarcia57 »

PN3565 this transistor is the same ? 2n3565

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GeSi
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Post by GeSi »

cant really agree on that

http://alltransistors.com/transistor.ph ... istor=3343

http://alltransistors.com/transistor.ph ... stor=44904

PN3565 Equivalent Transistors (no 2N3565 in that list)
and just by finding 2N3904 makes it easy to spot...

http://alltransistors.com/crsearch.php? ... &caps=TO92

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